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John Deere LX277 battery light
|Craig||When the mower is engaged, the battery light comes on, any thoughts?
|Dale G. Basgall||Craig ; if you have already verified battery voltage and found it to be good charged and when the mower is running it is charging over 13vdc minimum then as your setting on your mower on the left side rear of the engine compartment there is a red round plastic cap that when all is charging and the battery light comes on that cap needs replaced.
Not all units have those but I spent alot replacing voltage rectifier regulator, battery and hours of wondering. It ended up being the red cap, it looks like a cap but it is a capacitor in the book.
First put on the volt meter to make sure it is good battery voltage and charging with the PTO clutch on.
|bontai Joe||When Dale says getting your battery checked out, he means more than just does it have 12 volts? Take you battery to an auto parts store that "load tests" batteries usually for free. It takes several minutes, but tells you if your battery has enough Amps to power the PTO. Think of volts as a hose and amps as the amount of water flowing in that hose, it's amps that do the work, and if your PTo is drawing more than your battery can deliver, the light comes on. Your charging system may be fine, but if there is a bad cell in the battery, you have less power. Keep in mind that these little batteries are not like your car battery in term s of design life. They tend to develope problems after about 3 years. So check out the battery before spending money on parts. Of course, Dale may be totally correct in that capacitor solving your problem, butget a free check of your battery first.
|Jeremiah||Where exactly does this plastic cap capacitor go? My JD LX277 has the same issue and I found a red plastic cap laying in the bottom rear left of the engine compartment.
|Jack||Just went through this whole episode. Here is my experience.
1. Looked for the red cap, never found one. 1999 JD LX277AWS
2. Took the battery to NAPA. They load tested it and the battery was OK.
3. Checked the voltage at the battery terminals, engine running, and got 12v.
4. On the voltage regulator is duplex plug that goes to the stator windings. Spec says should have at least have 26v AC across the 2 terminals at 3000 rpm. Not sure how to tell what 3000 rpm is , but had 28v at half throttle and 33v at full throttle.
5. Since I had volts coming from the alternator, but not at the battery, I replaced the voltage regulator. Problem fixed.
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