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John Deere lx277 wont pull on incline
|Russell||My lx277 wont pull an incline after warming up. It pull when first starting but looses power. Motor is fine and belts and pulleys seem fine. The trans makes a whining sound If I press the pedal half way down it pulls a little but jerks. It acts like a releif valve but Im afraid it is a pump ...Any suggestions .. I changed the oil in the transmission without any improvements
|Dale G. Basgall||Russell : Sounds typical for a hydrostatic, we have repaired those to last hundreds of more hours after this failure without the use of new parts. These transmissions are pricey like 5 or 6 hundred bucks but here is the catch 22.
You pull the transaxle out of the machine in 25 to 30 minutes. Clean it up really good and wash your hands 30 minutes. Remove outside hardware and case half mounting bolts and split the case halves apart 10 minutes. Pick out all the springs and things that fell out,and then take the internal parts out 15 minutes. Clean all parts in hot water and powder tide soap to remove all oil from internal parts and air dry each part 30 minutes. Lay all parts out and inspect, repair as necessary 3 hours.
Re assemble into machine and install hydraulic oil, test out machine 1 hour. This makes the total work around 5 hours so in a shop it's not worth it when a customer can buy a new one for the same price.
However if you want to repair yours I can show you how. Write back on the forum if you want to attempt to revive yours without spending hundreds of dollars.
|Russell||I would like to know what I need to do to fix it myself.
|Dale G. Basgall||Russell : First step is to remove the mower deck, you can remove the transmission without removing the deck but I don't do that it's easier for me to get the deck out of the way. Put the tractor onto jack stands. Set them up so you can pull the trans out of the rear.
Take the rear wheels, transmission belt and linkages off the trans and then the four mounting bolts attaching the transaxle to the frame.
Do you have tools, how much mechanical experience do you have? The next steps take some mechanical skills so do you feel ok with taking the trans apart?
Write back on the forum when you get the transaxle out of the machine.
|Russell||I have the trans out and dis assembled. I am confident that I can do this as I have experience in automobiles and motorcycles
|bontai Joe||You are in good hands with Dale, he fixes these for a living.
|russell||Thats good to know.. I really didnt want to replace the transmission
|Dale G. Basgall||Russell: Motorcycles relate more to these transmissions than do automotive mechanics. As you know the case halves and the block assembly are made of aluminum alloy on the transmission and the motorcycle engines of today.
After all your parts are really clean and dry including the bolts lay them all out on a clean towel on the bench. There are a few things that we are going to look at but now segregate all the pistons and springs into a ordered way.
Sometimes older guys that have been mechanics call things of mechanics names not in the book. So I will try to best describe what to look for from my words.
There are alot of little pieces but three substantial ones. After you take a vernier caliper and measure all the springs from both rotating assemblies and compare them together and make sure all are ok then look carefully at all the pistons for shiney spots don't worry about mixing them up as long as they look alike.
There are two heavy objects that look like a revolver in a pistol. They are the motor cylinder block and the pump cylinder block. Look at the surfaces that contact the aluminum housing while rotating. They have really tiny scratches on them. Take a rectangular sheet of 220 grit emory paper, the wet dry black one, you will need several grits finer also later on when finishing this work.
Tape or spray a fine layer of tacking cement to the back of the 220 grit paper and stick it to a piece of good thick glass. Lay that on a flat board on your bench and put a small amount of diesel fuel just to keep the emory wet at all times.
I will write an additional follow up to this due to the length.
|Dale G. Basgall||There are two rotating assemblies that contain pistons and we will call them cylinder blocks. On one end there are open holes to accept the pistons and on the other end is a surface.
Lay that surface onto the 220 and move it very smooth and slowly rotating in circular patterns alot like polishing a car or bike those smooth rotations until there are no visible scratches at all even after using a magnifying glass. Then do the other rotating assembly the exact same way and do not put downward force onto the cylinder blocks while polishing the sealing faces.
This takes quite awhile sometimes an hour it's a slow smooth process. After those surfaces look like a mirror then stick on the 800 grit or finer and again go throught the polishing process.
Next get yourself an 8" length of 1" x 1" wood square and cut a 1"wide strip of the 220 the length of the grit paper and nail it to each end of the board so you end up with a 1" wide sanding block and make sure to keep it wet with diesel fuel while polishing the surfaces on the aluminum block that retains the rotating assemblies or cylinder blocks.
There are two aluminum circular surfaces on the aluminum block and both need to look very smooth, I take semicrome polish to both aluminum surfaces after final polishing.
Re assemble the trans and it should be good to go for as long as the original one lasted. Make sure to use good sealant like the silver centercase glue for motorcycles.
If you need more which I don't think you will but write back if you do.
|Dale G. Basgall||When assembling the rotating assemblies use a mixture of good oil and good grease. I take an empty plastic bottle like vitamin water bottle and pour good clean oil and then a glob of clean grease about 2 tablespoons and a small amount of transmission oil and shake it up till it mixes together, it makes a really slick thick oil mix that you need on the aluminum surfaces and pistons we call it monkey shlauz.
Next take each dry piston and try to gently let it fall into a bore to its block and put the pistons in the block holes until you find the holes each piston is free to slide easily without lube. Then put a little monkey shlauz on each piston and work it up and down with the oil on. Do that for both cylinder blocks and lube the aluminum block surfaces.
The point is that those surfaces are what seals the oil pressure in the pistons of the pump and also seals the oil pressure of the motor. The pump driven by the pulley shaft and the motor driven by the hydraulic output from the sealed pressure cavities connecting the pump to the input of the motor driving the rear wheels.
As you mow usually grass builds up on the cooling fins of the transmission. Then it doesn't cool the oil as well and usually heats up to throw a little oil from the upper transmission case vent. Also this heats the trans up more and then reduces the ability of the oil to keep the friction off the mating surfaces of the pump and motor. The smallest deviation on the mating surfaces causes this situation. Usually they do not go out at once there are indications of the mower slowing down as it heats up until finally it won't pull itself.
|Roderick Malloy||my john deer lx255 stop pulling , when i press gas pedal it pulls slow then stops.
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