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Setting Points Gap; Before & After?

mrlewp87 Huh? (ha) Here's the deal. Pardon my naive-ness(?), but I'm drooling over the thought of getting on with the installation of this brand new distributor on my 53 Jubilee! Did my best imitation of Tim "the Tool Man" Taylor when it arrived via UPS a few days ago.
I feel fairly confident I could go about it on memory alone if I had to, based on the studying up I've done. Not that it's a walk in the park, and nothing could possibly go awry. I'll have plenty of notes and print-outs on hand, to be sure.
Here's the jist of my post; the points are going to be at their widest gap, at a time determined by the shape of the cam (hi-tech terms escape me for now, try and follow ;-) Soon, maybe tomorrow, I'll remove the cap, rotor and dust-cover, and try rotating the shaft to see this amazing technology at work. (ha) I know the basics of settings the points gap, and have the specs I'll need on my Jube. So....(finally) the question;
If I'm able to set the appropriate gap, as the cam is pushing to it's maximum against that "thing" on the point set-- AND... I can visually see that the rotor (on the shaft now-minus dust cap) is pointing to Plug 1's terminal (knowing the cap's position when in place)..... see where I'm going with this? What's to change anything, once the distributor is CORRECTLY inserted and installed- with piston No.1 at TDC ??
I know, there's the slant-toothed gear that will create some turning of the shaft going in. That's the case regardless, right? And you may need to back out and restart the insertion, in order to end up with the rotor in the correct position, is that right?
I'm just thinking that this first time, with the new points- would be easier going with the unit on a workbench, rather than sticking out the side of a tractor. I could be way off in left field. Nothing new there. Ha.
I have a timing light. And I know,.. there's this "dwell" thing also. I'm not sure I'd know what to do with that, anyway. I've read about others that ignore it, and use their ear! I'm not there, yet...... So, just on the gap settings, what say you?

mark sr I've never installed points on an uninstalled distributor. It's not big deal to set the points with the dist installed. I always set the timing on my NAA by ear ..... but I don't own a timing light.
Bob G Set the gap after you install the distributor. Much easier, the shaft will not keep trying to try as it would if it is not installed. I like the timing light, much more accurate unless you have done a lot of them by ear.
That would be number one at TDC on compression stroke by the way!

Jim Loveridge I just found your post today. I hope I'm not too late. You've done a lot of home work and that's good, but sometimes too much knowledge will cause more trouble than needed. Don't worry about number one cylinder being anywhere. As you remove the old distributor, watch where the rotor is pointing when you lift it out. Then have your new one pointing at the same spot when you put it in. It's that simple. If you've already pulled your old one out, disregard this.:) You will still have to set your timing though. Let us know how you did. Oh, those high spots on the cam are called lobes.
mrlewp87 Thanks to all. I'm no longer getting alerts to new posts!? (good thing I spell-check my iPad's spell-check. It had put in "nerd" instead of "new"! Ha) I lost track of where I posted this. Just now see nothing about following posts.
Anyway.... As life does sometimes, it has created many diversions for me. I've yet to install the distributor. I began posting 2-3 months ago on problems with our "Hey, Jube" :-/
It wouldn't run for more than 20 mins. More often 2 or 3 max.!
I'm happy to report that as a result of days, weeks worth of efforts, and TLC, plus a few small parts, I got her running. Dragged the pasture a couple weeks ago for 1hr. 35 mins.!
That's with the old distributor, with wobbly shaft. I think the shaft likely "binds" or sets into a position and holds fairly steady. It must! or how would it run? And very smoothly I might add. Oh,... Yes, I'm still putting the new one in.
An FYI; I believe it was sediment coming at first from the gas tank. That, and a crusty old, curvy (not the wife) pipe feeding air, and possibly "rust-dust"? directly to the carb. Thorough cleaning of both, and all seems well, for now. I should replace that pipe, since it likely will begin shedding again (if only the wife would. :-(
Now to see about post alerts. Thanks again. Like the ideas presented.

Mark Bell What if you turn the shaft and there is no gap on the points? I installed new points and can not get the points to gap open when I turn the shaft.
Mark B I went to TSC and bought new set of points and the set I bought at the Ford dealer were defective. New ones from Taiwan fit perfect and gap when I turn the shaft.


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