|Allis Chalmers||Avery||Bobcat||Case David Brown||Caterpillar||Cockshutt||Deutz||Euclid||Ford||International Farmall|
|John Deere||Kubota||Massey Ferguson||Minneapolis Moline||Mitsubishi Satoh||New Holland||Oliver||White||Zetor||Miscellaneous (OTHER)|
|| SSB Farm Tractor Parts, Manuals & Antique Tractors||| Aftermarket Farm Tractor Parts||| Service & Repair Farm Tractor Manuals ||
|| Tractor Implements||| Tractor Seats||| Trailer Parts||| Tractor Loaders||| PTO Generators||| Rear View Backup Camera ||
|| Pedal Toy Tractors||| Tractor Books||| Tractor Data / Info / Specs||| Tractor Blog||| Antique Tractors History||| Related Sites||| Rustic Home ||
|How much is your farm tractor worth? Find resale prices for tractors built from 1939 through today, with complete specifications and serial numbers. Save 15% on our Official Tractor Blue Book sale!|
Search This Message Board:
|Larry||Putting new wire harness on front mount 8N. Last wire to connect was the generator ground to the voltage regulator. Well where the wire goes to the regulator this weird bolt busted. It might be called dielectric. Not sure though. Anyway it is what bolt the regulator to the dash. Never saw a bolt like this and not sure where to get a new one. Any ideas?
|Bob G||You may not find the orginial but do a google search for isolation bolts or something similar. may have to repalce all three. they are shock mounts as much as anything. That is why you have to run the ground wire to the generator. check out graaingers!
|Larry||Thanks Bob. I've used some 2 part epoxy glue that I make golf clubs with to glue it back together. Supposed to be good for 2000lbs of pressure. It appears quite solid. I'll check Granger and if it don't hold. I think it is stronger than the original was right now though. I'm wondering if you get a new regulator do you have to mount it the same way? I can't imagine any of those 3 mounting bolts holding up when you take the nut off. I sprayed PB Blaster on mine and it still came apart.
Here is a picture of the bolt before and after if it goes ok.
This it the before pic of broken bolt. You can see the two stud type bolts and then the rubber plastic insulator part.
|Jim Loveridge||Good job Larry. From what I see from some on-line wiring diagrams, it looks like replacement regulators use only two mounting bolts.
|Larry||Thanks Bob. I got it on and it held. I was a little nervous tightening it down but it held. Got it rewired, new plugs, points, distributor and thermostat installed. Tomorrow I'll have my brother come and we will put the hood and gas tank back on. Hope it starts. That is my worse fear doing all that work and then it won't start. I read that on here and other forums. I will say this after putting on the new wire harness I wish I'd have made my own. The coil wire was to short so I made my own. The one end piece that goes over the bolt on the distributor ground was to small. Had to put on a bigger one. Main problem I had was trying to figure out what the guy who had this tractor before me did with the wiring. He had spliced and cut so it was hard tracing it. I end up just ripping the old one out and putting the new one in. Following the simple diagram in the FO-4 made it simple.
|Larry||Thanks Jim for the compliment. Yes I noticed that with some new regulators. The one on mine had two on the bottom and one on the top. Not sure how they would mount. I was going to take the old one off and replace it with a new one but decided the new one is working so leave well enough alone I guess. I just got back in from the barn. I rechecked all the wiring and made sure all the contacts were clean. Turned it over and I got a good hot spark to all the plugs so it should start when I get the gas tank and hood on. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
Post a Followup