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|Michael Lacey||Does anyone have good info on rebuilding a 53 NAA carb? i believe its the tsx 428 model.
The kit came with instructions, but i believe i am missing a few parts. the drawing in the manual mentions "packing" and a retainer when installing the choke and throttle levers.
i have one rubber retainer that came with the kit (fits on the throttle lever nicely) and i also bought a brass colored retainer that looks like it goes on the choke lever.
Are these correct? What is the packing? And, what is the cotton looking piece used for? It looks like a thick gasket with a hole in the center like a donut.
Youtube only seems to have videos on other models.
|Bob G||The cotton looking piece is the packing for the choke shaft. rubbber one is for the throttle shaft.
|Michael Lacey||What about 9N9695 (retainer) that she sold me? It was separate from the kit. I don't see it listed in my service manual, but it looks like the black rubber one, only a bit smaller and brass colored.
|Bob G||That is the choke shaft felt retainer.
It is amazing what you can find by typing the number into a Google search!!
|Michael Lacey||Bob, you have been very helpful, thank you.
One last question. I can't seem to get the choke butterfly in with the flap directed downwards (as shown here - see page 6 of 21).
I put the return spring in from the kit (even though my manual does NOT show it). There was no spring present when i took it apart to rebuild.
Should the relief valve opening be facing down toward the ground or up? If it should be facing down, i am at a loss as to how to install it
|Bob G||On the TSX 241b sitting on my computer table the bypass flapper, when the choke is closed is towards the top with the spring on the inside. with the choke open the flapper is towards the inside. I think you can only get it installed one way that will work like it should. I had fun figuring out the choke return spring the first time!
I had not seen the carb book. Got that on file now, thanks.
I see that it has good instructions on the felt seal and cup on the choke shaft. I didn't know it could go both ways depending on carb.
|Michael Lacey||okay, I have everything installed for the carb rebuild and i am assuming the compression, ingition and timing are 100% (I just had the engine completely rebuilt, by a credible NSeries specialist - but with the old carburetor).
I didn't think the ratio would be this difficult to set and perfect. No matter what i do to the main power and idle it seems to get push back out of hte air intake assembly (ONLY when i increase throttle near full load). I only experienced a few back fires. Again, mostly what sounded like air pushing back out of the carb and out of the air cleaner. i noticed some oil dripping from the intake vent on the outside of the tin.
What causes this? Too rich, too lean?
Any suggestions on setting the carb is appreciated. i have the manual and book, but there are only a few directions, initial settings, etc.
|Bob g||I would check the timing on the distributor. Might check the mechanical advance in the dist. also. might be froze or not working right. There should be oil in the bottom of the air cleaner. make sure it is not over serviced.
It should run pretty good on the initial carb settings.
|Jim Loveridge||You might want to talk to your mechanic about that. The N tractors are flat heads and your NAA is an overhead. I wonder if he adjusted the rocker arm clearance correctly. It needs to be done with the engine at operating temperature.
|Michael Lacey||Distributor is brand new as well and there is just enough fresh oil in the air cleaner cup. It sounds like it SHOULD be quit simple to set the carb based on what you just said Bob. I had never really had a good canvas to start with so i wasn't sure.
jim, i'll ask about the rocker arms. It seemed to be running fine before i updating the carb tho.
thank you for everyones input!
|Bob G||On my carbs, I start at 2 1/2 tuns open and with it running at full throttle I adjust in until the engine just starts to cut out and then back out 1/4 turn. Sometime I a have to open it just a tad more when pulling hard. Idle screw I adjust in while also adjusting the idle speed screw until I get the best, slowest rpm. I am not critical about idle speed being real slow. I don't work them at an idle.
I like JIms idea bout the rocker arms needing adjusting.
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