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Posted by mrlewp87 on Thursday, June 26, 2014:

In Reply to: Re: Coil Now Gets Hot- With New Distributor posted by Jim Loveridge on Wednesday, June 25, 2014:

(Rem: new coil, new distributor- w/new points & condenser)
**12V converted system, 12V coil. Max current calculated to be just under 4 amps. Believing hi current as the cause of hot coil, I opted for max. gap settings all around::
.......... I started with plugs; cleaned and re-gapped to max-
0.028, instead of 0.025.
.......... points; far too tight on the 0.025 feeler! Re-gapped to 0.026 (attempted) Repeatedly found the gap to close some after tightening screws. Finally, using the 0.030 gauge, I got a good feel on the 0.026- after! turning of the screws. Oh, to set them at correct position; with plugs pulled, turned the _____? (thing which drives pistons. Ha. Crankshaft?) NOT using fan blades, as I've read to do, but questioned. That belt would be way tight if that could happen. There's a nub on front of the lower pulley wheel(?). It has slots to insert a thin shaft, such as (lacking an actual tool) a long screwdriver, which I used. Made real easy to turn the drive-shaft, but only forward.
........... Timing; an odd thing happened. After setting the points, I easily found 5 dgr.s, and saw the 8 dgr. mark I put there last fall. I began turning the shaft in very slight increments, so I could spot and re-mark at least the 20 dgr. point. I lost sight of any markings at all. So I reversed my tugs on the shaft (....hey!!**# :-O ) thinking I'd gone in the wrong direction. Never found them again! Gave up and decided to move on. Engine started up fine. Put timing light to it, and there were the vanished timing marks.
Again, I went with 20 dgrs. / 1200 RPMs. Ran the Jube for 20 mins. and the coil was just warm, not hot ! Thinking the points gap was primary cause.

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