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One more question, about the 3 pt lift
| Tim Wilson | First, thanks to the ones for the help on the hydraulic screen location. I got everything changed and it is back together. Now, from reading other posts I am lead to believe that the 3 pt lift should stay where ever you set the lever to, is that so? Mine has never, I had to keep my leg against the lever or it was up or down, no in between. Looking at the attachings under the seat, my lever is pulled to the down position by a good size spring. Is it adjustable? The 3 pt goes up and down fine, just no in between, unless you hold it. I am ordering the manual but would like an answer prior to getting the book. Thanks and this board is GREAT!! Tim |
| Al | Not familiar with the 1700, somehow don't have a clear picture, and don't know if the spring is factory or jury-rigged. But the control should stay put. How does it work if you disconnect the spring or replace it with a weaker one? Does the lever move alongside a curved frame? If so, they came with a little wingnut/bolt (in a slot in that frame) that served as a moveable stop (to prevent the lift from going too high, eg when raising a belly-mower). They tend to get loose and fall off, but you could easily get one or a pair, and set where it/they will keep the lever from moving. |
| Norm | Tighten it. It works just like your throttle lever.
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| TomR ont | Tim the lift should stay where you set the lever, On the 240d, mine did the same thing for years, the spring couldn't be tightened any more - I had to move the fender to get at it. When I took it apart there was 2 FIBER washers inside it, metal would have worn the curved frame - So I had a bakelite (sp) part from an electrical control. With a keyhole drum saw, the one with a regular drill bit in the centre and the drum about 1" looks just like a washer and it works great now. When you look at yours the washers will be worn down to the point where they are touching, and you can’t tighten the spring any more. |
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