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1855 diesel hard to start

Robert Young I have repalced the pump and injectors with rebuilt units, the engine is just rebuilt. I have bled the pump and injectors..the tractor is hard to start, I have to use ether to make it run. It runs fine at full speed but misses at any speed under 1500rpm..I installed an electric pump between the tank and the filter to help push the fuel to the injection pump..I am lost.I bought the pump at a salvage yard..supposed to be rebuilt..also the injectors..any help?
thepumpguysc I'm going to assume its a "roosa master"[stanadyne] pump..some pump #'s would help.
Remove the return fitting COMPLETELY from the top of the pump and try to start it.
Did you try rotating the pump slightly in either direction?
Did you time the pump BEFORE you took it off?
Why would a salvage yard have a "rebuilt" pump?
More likely you got an "overhaul in a can" [spray painted pump]

Robert Young yes I had the tractor in time when I removed the original pump and I timed the pump when I put the replacement on, it is a roosa master..the pump was drop-shipped along with the injectors from a pump shop..there is fuel flowing through the return line..the timing mark on the pump apears to be hand scratched? I have replaced pumps on IHC and JD's and never had this much trouble..
thepumpguysc Its not uncommon for the weight retainer and hub to be replaced and the timing mark[line] is hand etched[electric pencil].
I cant help but ask, did you line up the dot on the drive shaft with the dot inside the pump?
What color smoke do you have? If its white, more than likely its timing. It IS possible to to put the hub on, 180* out, inside the pump. The dot to dot would tell the story. If the dots are lined-up and the timing mark isnt visable, the hub is on 180* out. Easiest way to check, line-up the timing marks inside the pump, remove injection pump from engine, leaving the drive shaft in engine. Look at the end of the dr.sh. for the "dot", now look inside the pump for the dot.They should be lined-up.

robert young I am 99% sure the dots are correct..the smoke is mostly gray, the engine once it starts seems to put out a lot of black smoke..to it make start I have to keep spraying starting fluid to keep the rpms up till it will eventually run on it's own..runs on all 6 at full..misses on one or two at 1200rpm cracking the lines does not clear the miss.I am thinking I will pull the pump,lines and injectors and take them to a shop I trust and just bite the bullet..hate to pay twice for something.but I'm tired of messing with this tractor..darn thing ought to just start and run
WFE2 Other things to consider - is your cranking speed good? 2 12V batteries in parallel with large cables to the starter can make a world of difference in starting, but the fact that it runs with difficulty at first might lead me to question who rebuilt the cylinder head and did they get the valve protrusion correct? Incorrect protrusion will make the 283s and 310s notoriously difficult to start.


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