Dana Transaxle D4360-140

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Dana Transaxle D4360-140

Mike Stewrat This Trnsaxle came off a craftsman model #917.270532. This unit was manufactured in 2000 .
I took the unit apart after hearing loud clunking noises.When i opened up unit it was full of water.and the beveled gear on the main driveshaft was chipped causing the clunking sound. My question is this. How could all that water get in there when this is supposed to be a sealed unit? Second has anybody else came across this problem? I would like to add that the unit was hard to shift from day one ,and after dissassembly i noticed that the shifting arm was all rusted from the water. Thank's Mike

paul Have you had this tractor since it was new? This may or may not be a contributor to your problem but I have seen new lawn equipment being stored outside at several places that sell lawn and garden equipment. At the Tractor Supply, the lawn tractors were stacked two and three high in their wood shipping crates, and sat there for months out in the elements. Thats one reason I wasn't shopping tractors there.
michael Stewart Yes Paul; I've had it since new. But i cant figure out how a cup of water got into the transaxle.Do you think that much condensation could have built up in three years? I have been storing my tractor outdoors but under cover. Thank's for your reply . Mike
paul Water is a funny thing. Sometimes it goes where you don't want it to, and other times it doesn't go where you do want it to. I know storing new lawn equipment out in the rain before it's sold can't be a good thing. I also know that metal and aluminum engine & transmission castings can somtimes contain porosity which can produce leakage both inward as well as outward. Not to mention a bad seal or gasket that can pop up now and then. Also, Have you ever power washed your tractor? Water under high pressure likes to go lots of places it wouldn't normaly go.
Mike Funny, I just ran into a similar problem. The main pulley on the transaxle is very "loose" and wobbles around making very loud clunking noises. I have removed the transaxle from the tractor, but I can't seem to get the upper and lower housings apart to see if my problem is the same. How did you separate the two housings?
Randall Ryan Same problem. Lots of water in the transmission after being stored in garage. I did wash it after each cutting. I think the new input shaft kit has a extra seal to keep water out. I am calling DANA to see if this oversite was a defect in the original design.
Harol d Appleby I bought a Craftsman 917.270532, in 2000,It was very hard to shift from day one, and it finally quit shifting, when I opened the case (Which was hard to open)I too found water in it and RUST on several gears and shafts. My mower was stored in a building since I bought it. I washed it off several times. Iwas thinking about buying another DANA (Spicer) Transaxle but I am not shure what to do. Does anyone have any suggestions on what to do.
John Tice Does anyone know how to contact dana. My transaxle is bad to. I bought my tractor 917.271651 two years ago. It's bad already. Does anyone know what the -140 stands for at the end of the part number?
john scanlon Sounds like a reoccuring theme. I just took my transaxle part and found a lot of water inside as well. 5 Years old stored inside. Has anyone been able to contact Dana to see if it's a manufacturing flaw?
Not that they would admit to it...

Randy McNeil Same Problems with mine. Started getting hard to shift and then finally looks like the input shaft has came loose inside. I can find DANA online but seriously doubt they will take care of anyones problem. I bought my yard tractor from Sears maybe they would apply pressure or whoever actually makes them.
Clint try checking with whom you bought the unit from.. some equipment was transfered from flooded warehouses and is possible you got one of the units checked and sold .. the broken gear is uncommon.. but not hard to believe either..
Kevin Grogan Same problem with my mower also!!! Has anyone found out what to do other than replace it??? I have found other 5 speed transaxles that look like they would match for a lot cheaper. The cheapest that I have found is 444.00(6 speed that is). Has anyone found one cheaper?
John Scanlon I was able to take the transaxle part remove the old grease and replace with 90 wieght gear lube. Use a little silicone sealant and a tap a small refill plug on top of the case when you reassemble.
Total cost $8.00 a a few messy hours cleaning out old grease and putting it all back together.
Works better then new!

Gene Hmmmm. The drive belt began to slip off drive pully on my (Craftsman Model 917.271631) tractor on the last mowing. Thought it was a stretched belt needing replacement or other minor adjustment. Took the rear safety guard plate off today after fixing the belt several times to find that the main drive pulley is loose (over 1/2 play, side-to-side); service tech suggests broken shaft (but it still moves when belt is in place???) and estimated labor and parts replacement cost of almost $750. Similar new Sears mower is only about $800. Perhaps a concerted effort to report these problems to the US Consumer Product Safety Commission (see: https://www.cpsc.gov/incident.html for report form you can file on-line).

Had this failure occured on a slope, my tractor probably would have begun to free-wheel down slope when I tried to re-engage gear. Not much of a problem to stop if you're quick, but someone less experienced or a young operator might have paniced and crashed.
This is my 2nd (and probably last) Sears tractor. First one bought in '93; replaced with this one after Sears tried to replace the (Techumseh) engine on the first part-by-part and finally broke the case. Two tractors in 12 years for an average life span of about 6 years... And my tractor is also stored inside, has been used only on level half-acre lot. No attachments other than the mower deck. Good maintenance (first 3 years by Sears techs).

Ilde Mora I also have a Craftsman 917-270532 with a Dana 4360-140 transaxle. It is stock on third gear. Is there a way to get a instruction manual on this part?
Paul2 Just had my transaxle (Sears 917.271653) bite the dust too (seized - doesn't move, smoked the drive belt and had to get a dolly to pull the tractor into the garage). I'll pull it out of the tranctor and see what happened to it. Dana (used to?!) have a good name, but perhaps not anymore.
Paul2 The parts list/diagram is in the owner's manual,
otherwise you can go to http://www3.sears.com/ (or www.sears.com and click on "parts")

In the "Search by Model# or Part#" box, enter
"d4360-140". This will lead you to the parts list and diagram (click on the "show diagram" item).

Roger Got a 3 year old Sears 917.271652 from my neighbor as the transmission is inoperable and Sears sestimate to repair: $1000. Water in the case. Looks like the case halves have not sealed properly in one place as there is a water/grit mark across the case faces. The shift mechanism was stuck solid due to corossion. No grease left in the input bearings, so they were close to failure and need replacing.
Clymer Yard and Tractor Service Manual Vol 3 has a section on the Dana 4360 transaxle.

mike stewart I repaired mine myself by looking up the parts thru sears and ordering the parts. I just took pictures of it as i took it apart.Ive had it running now for a year and no new problems. Maybe i should become a tractor mechanic.lol
But thanks for the information mike.

JJ How to open the case. I just can not do any shifting. Sears guys told me I might to open the case and grease everything there. I have trouble to open the case. any suggestions? Thanks
Weikman I also have had problems with water. I also, disassembled(after removing all the hardware there may be some sealant adhereing the top and bottom sides together - just walk two screwdrivers around the crease until it separates - becareful not to pry to hard and damage the sealing face) to find H2O and all the grease packed in areas away from the gears. I cleaned the heck out of it and not only greased the gears heavily but also added as much 80 weight oil as the lower half could hold. Seemed to solve my problems with a sticky / jammed shift lever.
Edward Goodfield Have owned tractor with this transaxle for 8 years. It started shifting hard right after the manufacturers warranty ran out. (How Convenient). I'm planning to drill several or 1 hole in the top of the transaxle casing and filling it with 30W oil. There's nothing else to do with it, short of buying a new transaxle for $500.00. I should have gone into the riding lawn mower repair business. Ed.
Kurt Coombs Had the same problem with the transmission slipping when on an incline. Opened up the transmission and found that the bearings on the input shaft had totally disentigrated. I have tried to find the part on line without going to Sears. Haven't had much luck. I did notice that after removing all of the hardware, the upper and lower casing had some sort of silicon glue for a sealant. I have talked to Sears, the cost of the bearing is $6.00 = freight to fix.
Dale Frederick I have a Craftsman tractor.
I screwed up and didnt keep the crap off of the transmission. It got hot. I parked it, when I was finished mowing, the next day I had a puddle of light brown watery liquid under it. What is the best way of changing the gear lube? Is there a way I can change the lube without taking the whole thing apart?

Kevin For you guys with the loose input shafts, Kurt Coombs is spot on. Most of the Dana/Spicer 4360 Transaxles have (2) needle bearings that are the first thing to wear out. Once you get a little play in that input shaft, the 14 tooth beveled pinion at the bottom of the imput shaft no longer has solid contact w/ the 42 tooth bevel gear on the drive shaft and starts to skip. The best fix is to try and locate a replacement input shaft kit, which includes a new shaft, new needle bearings, new beveled pinion gear, washers, retaining clips key etc... outdoordistributors.com is the cheapest place I can find online for dana/Spicer parts. m-and-d.com is a great site because they have exploded diagrams of all transaxles. From what I can tell, you have to buy the whole shaft assembly, which again, is the best fix, but I would sure like to find just the bearings and give that a shot for the money. If anyone can tell me where to find just the bearings for the imput shaft, I would greatlt appreciate it.
Keith Alexander Add this one to the list of shot input shaft
3 yo craftsman 917.271653. Pulley wobbles all over. Customer is going to "think" about repairing.

SPACESTUFF I have a neighbor with the same problem. His tractor is a 917.272670, DANA D43060- 140. He called the service guy out when his tractor wouldn't shift. The service guy said Bad Transaxle , just out of warranty. Sears wants over $ 700 to fix it. I think everyone should all get together and contact the Sears Tower and see if they will do anything. I have had good luck when you complain to headquarters.
Art Parsons I had the same problem on a Dana model 4360-48 of no shifting. I took it apart and it had water inside. Cleaned it up and added a oil drain plug and a fill plug for 90W. The input shaft needle bearings were bad but I didn't want to pay $140 for the kit from Sears. I measured the bearings and found them online at qbcbearings.com. It was $24 ($10 min order). I found them later at McMaster-Carr (no min order). On the 4360-48 there is no seal on the input shaft so any water that gets on the pulley simply wicks down the shaft into the case. As the bearings wear out the problem gets worse. It appears to me to be a poor design.
Ray I bought a Sears Mower (Craftsman) with the Dana
Transaxle D4360-140 about 4 years ago from Sears.
I also bought the extended warranty. Luck thing I did. They have replaced the transaxle 3 times
for free. It went out again yesterday half way
through the yard. Unfortunately this time its on my dollars as the warranty went out in March. I am going to try and fix it myself so I appreciate
all the feedback you guys have given. Thanks.
Next time I buy a Deere.

Joel How do I split the transmission, I took out all the star head screws and the 2 halves do not come apart. Please advise.
Thanks, Joel

Paul2 Once all the screws are out, I took a thin steel scraper and gently tapped it a 1/4"-1/2" into the seam, all the way around and it finally decided to split. The steel scraper is stronger than the alloy in the transaxle case, so it can damage the seam if not done slowly/carefully. After I replaced the 2 broken gears and regreased everything (Mobil 1 red synthetic grease), I sealed the edge with an 1/8" bead of silicon gasket compound.
Paul2 FYI,
Dana corporation recently went bankrupt (they're still in business however, I can't see them going completely under), blaming the Ford/GM slowdown. Hopefully their other parts lines aren't like the transaxles.

Art Parsons A followup to my earlier post. The 90W did not work for me. It wouldn't stop leaking from the axles and brake disk shaft. I replaced the fill plug with a grease fitting and used Lucasoil Red N Tacky #2 grease. I also added a tapered seal above and an o-ring below the input pulley to keep water from getting inside the case. Works fine now.
Charles Brunson I had the same problem with my poulan transaxle after about the 5 yr mark. It was my dads and he hadit stored inside for the 1st 31/2 yrs and i think used it 5 times maybe on a city yard. I had it for 1 1/2 yrs and stored it inside also.

I found a parts list for the dana-foote transaxle and order a input shaft kit and tore the transaxle apart and installed the new shaft and gears. I used a heavy duty grease for lubrication seems to be running fine.
It seems that the problem in my was the seal deteriated which caused the bearings goand ruin the input shaft.

Cost me about $120.00 instead of the $500.00 for a new transaxle.

Jim Loocke Where were you able to find the parts? Was it difficult opening up the Transaxle. I've never done it. The transaxle is on a friends tractor. I told him I would take it back to Sears and demand my money back.It went out just as his warranty expired. They want $ 700 to replace it.
Charles Brunson I ordered the input shaft assembly kit from Sears parts store. I did find a distributor in Texas that you could order it from. The total cost was about the same. It just depends on how quick you want the part. The total time to fix the transaxle was about 1-2 days.

I had never done this before either but I decided to try it myself due to outrages cost they were charging to rebuild at the shop or to buy a new transaxle.

The only problem i had with doing this was that I did not line the gears up properly when I put it back together and i lost my reverse for now. I plan to tear the transaxle open this winter and fix that problem.

As for taking the transaxle apart just remove the screws and carefully pry the two halfs apart. When you have done that take a picture of the gears (if you have digital camera) so you can put the gears back in proper order. Remove the gears and put new lubricate in. I used a heavy duty / high friction grease from the local auto parts store. To seal the two halfs back together I used gray silicone.

i hope this helps.

Charles Brunson In response to Kevin's post I could not locate the needle bearings and was told by Sears that I had to buy the Input Shaft Assembly Kit to fix this problem because they do not sell the bearings alone. But when I was installing one of the bearings it got damagd so my brother took it to a local place that sells bearings agot the exact bearing for $6.00. Problem solved.

If you can get the part number off the actualin bearing take it to a place that specializes in bearings and they can match it up ith the original bearing. The main reason I bought the whole kit was brcause my input shaft was worn due to the wobble when the bearings went out so be sure the shaft is not damaged or you have this problem again.

CtotheK Just got my Grandpa's mower. Blown Trasaxel again its the 4360-140. Will not move. Luckily i have my old Bolens 120 Hydro for a backup. Never failed me yet. I will be taking it apart this weekend
Steven Lowell I have the same problem(water in the transmision) model 917271651 I have taken it apart and now I cant get it to shift at all please help!
Charlie W My mowers gears seem to be slipping...it started out gradually in higher gears 5th and 6th and now slips gears in 2-6. Could this just be to lack of grease? I thought originally it was the drive belt slipping....but reqalized it was the gears...
Jim Apple Ref: d4360-140 transaxle:
These trans axles among others are famous for getting water into them.
Most of them are filled with grease. My digging into them has reveled to me that the problem is that they get the water in them through the pulley input shaft and the shifter shaft. There are no grease seals at these points. The shifting plate will get rust on it and cause drag on the ball de tent and the two ball bearings. This causes the operator to force ( JAM ) the shift lever to get it in or out of gear. The other problem is, this also will sometimes damage the two springs that hold the bearings down to collapse.
When open clean the rust off of the shifting plate and the shaft, run a 12 gauge shotgun copper bore brush with a drill motor through the top of the case where the shaft fits. The copper brush will not damage the shaft housing. The input pulley generally will not
corrode as it is always in motion, but if open clean it anyway.
I put a grease fitting in the bottom of the case to lube it from time to time. This forces grease to the top of the gearbox and filling the voids. However you may notice some leakage at the wheel sides of the axle when the grease gets hot, wipe it of with a rag and drive on. The only have felt seals there.
The Sears Parts store has the detent balls and springs at a reasonable price.

BALL DETENT Part #68003 (134400 mdl #D4360-140 $2.47 each
SPRING Patr #3626 (105904X) mdl #d4360-140 $2.16 EACH

Jon Christopher Below is a copy of a complaint I registered with Sears Customer Service. I do not expect them to reply... certainly not to do anything!!!!

Product Complaint: Craftsman Lawn Tractor model 917.270532.

I am the very disappointed owner of a Craftsman Lawn Tractor - One of many using the Spicer Dana 4360 Transaxle. I am on my fourth Transaxle in five years. I realize you don't manufacture your lawn tractor... However, this tractor (with an $100 snowblower attachment) is the BIGGEST MECHANICAL PIECE OF JUNK I have ever owned or been exposed to. While the transaxle (which you sell for the bargain price of over $400) costs only $80 in the aftermarket, the unreliability and shoddy design of this tractor is shameful!!!

I will NEVER buy another sears product, appliance, craftsman tool, or pair of socks from your company again. In addition, I am closing my sears charge account ( had it for thirty years), and am contacting the New York State Attorney Generals office and the Federal Consumer Products Safety Commission to register complaints about this product as you have violated my trust and confidence in the Sears Brands.

Finally, I will tell EVERYONE I can about my experience with this piece of junk and encourage them to buy from a reputable and trustworthy vendor -- not sears!! I hope to save many of my friends and acquaintences the frustration and expense of wasting their money with you.

Too bad you have destroyed a good Brand!!! This piece of junk replaced a sears tractor I bought in 1978!!!!!!!!

Please visit the link below to see how you have robbed other's of their money!


Rodney Anyone looking for a spicer 4360-140 transaxle I found one on ebay. There is a guy on there selling them brand new for $175.00 and $35.00 shipping, the cheapest I've found them and they are selling like hotcakes. His user id is marionoutdoorpower.Hope this helps.
Ken Thanks to all of you for your comments...I too recently experienced the slipping problems and related hard shifting with my Craftsman with the 4360-140 transaxle. I knew what was wrong and how to fix it just by your comments. I readily ordered a new transaxle from Marionoutdoor (e-bay)(shipped to my door for $2l0) and look forward to receiving it in the next few days.I will tap and fill it with SAE 30 Synthetic oil. My mower is 5 years old and kept inside also. We do not have a large yard. Last year I had to replace the carburator due to the use of Stabil in the winter to keep the fuel fresh. This is not good for some carbs. Thanks again for the information. Ken of Mountain Home, AR.
Ed Goodfield It has now been almost 2 summers since my last posting on this stupid transaxle boondoggle. I went ahead like I said I was going to do and drilled two holes, opposite each other on the top of the transaxle and filled it with 80/90 gear oil. (used a pump can and squirted the oil in one hole until it came out the other, then I knew the transaxle was full) Heh Heh Heh. WOW what a difference after about 1/2 hour of use around the house and woods. Works fine and shifts great, no slippage. Ed.
JimL My transaxel started grinding today. Has always been hard to shift. Now, after reading this page, I see the best solution is to open it & replace/regrease parts. I've never done this kind of task...is there any part diagram to direct my work?
JimL Found it, just like Paul2 listed it above.
Guess I just open it up, clean it up & look for wear/sheared parts, replace, grease & close 'er back up. Simple, right?
Can you tell I'm a little nervous, oh well what can I lose. To boldly go where I've never been before.

VINNY before you replace parts for hard shifting check the shifter shaft after i opened it up i checked all moving parts and noticed there was excessive rust around the shaft and that was the cause for the hard shifting so i got away with a cheap fix plus to give it extra lube i drilled a hole in the top and tapped in a grease fitting and filled it with auto lube like you use for tierod ends and etc.
JimL OK, I've got the transaxel all apart & cleaned. The Needle Bearings were shot...had to be pounded out of the shaft. Some of you have said you found new bearings...got any size or PartNo info?
I've gone to m-and-d.com & qbcbearings.com but didnt get far.

JimL I ordered part# BNDSCE-108 from qbcbearings.com...looked to be the right measurments. I dont have tools to tap a grease fitting, so it will go back to a sealed & unservicable unit...what should I use?..the 90w gear lube or grease. I noticed Art did both.
JimL The bearings I listed above fit nicely.
Now, however I cant seem to close the case. It seams to get stuck and rock on something near the axel gear. I also note that every 8 or so tuns of the input shaft, it sticks & jumps a gear somewhere. I have it together as shown in the parts diagram. Any insight on proper alignment tricks? (specifically near the axel)

eric i also have this transaxle and have been searching for needlebearings if anyone knows where to buy them please contact me d4360-140 or if you know the dimensions to have them made
David B I see that several people have said that they found one of these transaxles on eBay. Can anyone hook me up with the sellers contact info? I havent been able to locate the one that is listed above
David B Does anyone know what the play should be when the main input shaft is turned? Mine turns 1.5 rotations of the pulley before the drive axle begins to move. My problem is that when driving the tractor it will seem to slip and jerk every 3-5 feet. 3rd gear is worse, but it happens in all gears. I finally found the company ebay that sells transaxles for this unit, but they are 5speeds. Really want to stick with the 6 speed, so diagnosis of the problem is paramount. Im going to pull it out tomorrow, 6/14/07, and pop the upper case and see what I have, but understanding the input shaft play issue would help in determining what is wrong.

JimL Any info on proper gear alignment on re-assembly would also be helpful. They're all in the right place, just dont seem to be aligned. It jumps the gears out of place after @ 8-10 rotations of the input shaft.
David B Jim, Are you turning the shaft with the case separated? If so, the they will jump out of place. You could try to make some straps to bold down over the shafts to hold everything down just like the case would.

Also I got an emailed tip from one of the other posters... said if you turn the transaxle upside down and remove the bottom of the case first, everything will stay in place for easy examination of all the parts.

Keith Hello, This site is great.Just got a craftsman mower (for free) Guess what,the trans is stuck in first. The model # is 4360-79 (Dana). Does anyone know if all this info is applicable? And where can I get the following Manual Clymer Yard and Tractor Service Manual Vol 3.
Thanks and good luck to all.

David B Well, it looks like I'm buying a new transaxle. Pulled mine apart tonight and found that the mainshaft with the ring/bevel gear on it is damaged along with the gear. There is over a quarter inch of play between the gear and the shaft. Also the input shaft is worn and the shifter fork is rusted away. As is the detent ball and spring. New parts inc seals comes to just over 300 dollars. New trans is 420.00. And comes with a one year warranty. I have found a new part number for the 4360-140. There has been CH added to the end of the model number. Not sure what it means, but hope it means better seals. I have about a 1/16 - 1/8 inch gap between the axle seal and the axle. Anyone wants to see pics, email me and I will email them to you. Also if anyone knows a lawyer who handles class actions, lets get together and hire him. Sears refuses to acknowledge there is a problem with this trans. Good Luck to all you out there with this part. PS: if you need spare parts, let me know. I have quite a few good ones in this trans. Willing to sell cheap.
Mo Received a free Craftsman Lt1000 with the D4360-140 slipping and making all kinds of noise. I spent last Sunday taking it apart. Do not forget the two torx screws under the pully. The two cases will not come apart with these fasteners in place. I had to take compressed air to the whole thing to be sure all the fasteners were out. The input shaft needle bearings were worn causing the bevel gear to jump away from the ring gear. Two of the bronze hat bushings were worn through and the top shift arm was bent(no lube in that area). Cleaned all of the gray RTV off before reassembly. Replaced all the bushings, gears all looked fine, installed a new bevel gear, shaft, needle bearings (#15 on the IPB). Replaced #9 seal, bored/tapped holes for fill and drain plugs, used 1/2-20 bolts with copper washers. Sealed cases with red locktite gasket maker RTV. Filled with mobile one 75w-90w synthetic gear oil. The tack red pariffin oil/grease mentioned above is probably better than the mobile one as it sticks to the gears better. Cost was about $120.00 for the repair. I have a nice tractor, and it took me a 1/2 hour to cut the grass instead of four with the 20" push mower. Oh, yeah, had a cracked gas tank because one bolt was cranked down too tight, bought a new gas tank,$24, and installed on rubber isolation mounts. Runs like a tank. Just need an umbrella and a cup holder.
BrutyeSonic Thanks for taking the time to put that info in a sticky. Its a time saver and will avoid hasssle .
David B Well. I ordered a new transaxle from sears on July 8th. Still dont have a trans. No known shipping date per an email from sears. They have my money and I dont have a trans. Meanwhile my yard is almost 12 inches deep. Have contacted Dana directly to see if I can buy from them. Will keep you posted.
Jim M I had similar problems as the ones stated above with my craftsman mower. Finaly it was just stuck in reverse. I opened up the transaxle case and didnt see anything imediate so I dissasemled the entire unit completely and noticed that the two pins that engage the gears looked like they where bent excessively so I reduced the bend slightly and cleaned and re greased the unit with amsoil high temp grease and reasembled the unit and it works great now..
Jim M
Jim L you may want to check the two detent check balls I had the same issue as you and thats what the problem was they have to line up with the two holes in the upper case I just removed them and the springs and put them in after the case was together.

David B Well still haven't received my new trans from sears. After several emails saying it would be shipped in 3 days, they finally said it is backordered with no ship date available. Since I ordered mine I have found that they are readily available from Dana through their suppliers. At about 575 dollars. Roughly 150 more than I paid for my backordered one. Hmm... wonder if sears found out that the transaxle is more expensive than they listed it for and are trying to out-wait me to see if I cancel the order.
David B "SIGH"!!! Almost 6 weeks now and still no trans. Sears says its on backorder from American Yard Products(a parts division of sears). Dana has it in stock and ready for shipment. Wish I could get someone to tell me what is up. My grass is about 12-14" high now. Going to have to rent a brush cutter to get it down.


David B Well!!! Finally received my new transaxle from Sears! 10 weeks and 4 days after I placed the order! Sears has a good price for this unit, but be prepared to wait! Now to modify so I can add more lubricant and install it.
David B Almost have the new trans installed. In checking the seal on the shifter shaft I found that they redesigned the seal! Hmmmm wonder what made them do that.. could it have been water intrusion???? The new seal is more like a cup seal and has a rubber cup that sits over the case where the shaft exits. I have pics of the two different seals if anyone wants to see them. When I put the new trans together, I put the new seal on first and pushed it all the way down so the cup was in the right position, then I took the old seal from the old trans and put it on top. This will prevent the new seal from riding up the shaft and exposing the shaft to water intrusion.
D Bremer Got the new trans installed and running today. Couple problems. The shifter wont line up with the indicator on the fender. The adjustment is all the way forward. Biggest issue with this is that Neutral is not centered. Trans will pop into reverse if the shifter is tapped because where neutral is on the indicator puts the trans on the edge of reverse. Not sure what do do about this one. Second issue: The detents feel very light. Almost impossible to feel where they are. Going to contact Dana about that one. I may have to take the trans back out and split the case, burr out the detent holes to make me a bit deeper, and install a stronger spring. Anyone had any of these concerns?
R Barna I have this transaxle also. My original problem was that the shifter was sticking. There was also a low grinding noise whenever the tractor was in motion that could barely be heard over the engine. I disassembled the transaxle, cleaned all the parts, including the rust from the shift kit assembly, which now moves freely. Before putting it back together, I loaded it up with about 20 oz. of red & tacky. When I put it back together the shifting issue was fixed, but the grinding noise was very loud. I replaced the needle roller bearings in the input shaft but I still have a grinding noise, albeit not as loud as before, whenever I am in motion (fw & rev). Grateful for any suggestions.
David B Are you sure the noise is from your trans mission and not your cutting deck? Try removing the belt from your cutting deck and see if it goes away. There isn't much in the trans that would cause a grinding that you haven't already addressed. You may want to check your brake also though.. make sure its not to tight and grinding.. or that the pads in it aren't worn out.
Tommy RED Ive got a Craftsman Rider (LT-1000) and it probably has this trans in it, it was a 2003 model I think. I use it as a beater, I cut grass over a foot tall, I dont stop to shift, I shift on the fly...I royally punish this thing regularly. Its been beat on enough to shear both front support bolts in the case, so now the shifter hops around when I take off..heh

I pull stuff, tire spin is a problem and both 20" rears are now nearly bald.

Ive got a number are large, powerful Garden Tractors, but this little LT is more maneuverable.

The 18hp Briggs AVS blew apart, and I dropped in a modified 17hp Intek from 1999 (the good one). Ive done some port work, 18.5hp carb, bumped governor up to 4300, and switched to Mobil 1 full syn. This is a grass cutting machine!

So far, the trans is good, and it always gets stored outside, uncovered. It shifts easily through all the gears (fender shift).

I have repaired a large number of "console shift" craftsman riders that you just about have to kick the shifter to make it move...Ive had a number come in with stuck transaxles as well.

Maybe mine is a newer style, and wont foul up?

Wish me luck and I hope all yall get your stuff fixed!

Randi Okay, I checked the brake. One of the pins was sticking, so I cleaned it, but I still have the noise. Itís definitely from the transaxle. I actually can hear noise from the transaxle when itís in neutral and I take my foot off the clutch/brake pedal. It sounds like the gears clicking together, which from what I understand, is to be expected. Itís nothing like the noise when I take my foot of the pedal when itís in gear, though.

Iím wondering if the red & tacky is too thick. Could it be that itís so thick that it was pressed out from in between the gears and itís just sitting off to the side now? I have some 85/140 gear lubricant and I was considering putting that in there.


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Paul D. Manson can't seem to find any parts for this transaxle
my shaft drive is all chewed up and also can't find any pictures on the inside of this transaxle
this is on a craftman model 917.252700 the tag on the transaxle is model 145607

paul Manson

David B If you go to sears website at www3.sears.com and enter this model number, 4360-83, in the parts number look up box, you will get a diagram and parts list of the entire trans blown up.
Darrell D. I have a Craftsman 42" with a Dana D4360-48 and it also got stuck in gear. I pulled the pulley and removed the set screws holding the detent springs and ball out. Did help, SO...I pump heavy red grease into both of the holes. After working the shifter back and forth for a few minutes it freed up. I can now shift into all gears with little effort. After assembly I started it up and no go, it trys but won't roll. I wonder if I need to tighten the detent set screws more or if the clutch keys got grease on them and wont grip now.
The trans pulley spins and if I pull hard on the brake pedal it trys but doesn't roll. I wasn't real sure where to set the set screws for the detent so it may tighten up further.Any suggestions? Thanks!

Kevin I also have a 4360 140 that would not shift out of gear. If I rock the tractor, I can get it to go. I have been looking on ebay at used tranaxles, but they are not exactly the same. Will a 4360-81 work instead? What else can be interchanged?
JohnU I've had the same problem with my transaxle slipping occasionally. i've taken the houseing apart and was not able to keep the gears in tact to note their alignment. does anyone have information regarding how the gears showed be properly aligned ?
Mike L I wish I woulda found this site sooner. I have an LT1000 917.271634 with a Dana D4360-140. It cratered this weekend 1/2 way through mowing my 3/4 acre backyard. It has been difficult to shift for a couple of years. Last year I spent about 4 hours trying to figure out how to lube the beast, no soap. So anyway it started chattering and then quit, less than 2 minutes. So I began doing research: Results: Yes, Sears SUCKS!!! I spent over 3 hours bouncing around the various departments -- until I finally was reconnected with the call center who stated that my only option was to have a "Tech" visit to trouble-shoot for $96, and OBTW to replace the transaxle would be around $700. Consistent with earlier comments. I'll try to find 'marion', a new transaxle for $200 sounds about right. And, I'll lube it up with some heavy oil on a regular basis. Thanks for all your postings. Wish there was some way to bring pain to Sears over this issue. Yes I'm looking at Deere's or maybe a Cub!
nick t this is the second transaxle for a sears tractor that is 5 years old. First one went bad under warrenty. This time the clutch doesn't engage any of the gears except neutral. I called the sumber give in the owners manuel and they informed me that they had no complaints regarding this transaxle. I can't believe this is a normal problem for a tractor this old. I won't buy another sears product again.
Kevin_P I'm not sure how old these posts are, but I'm glad I found this site. I have an LT 1100 with the Spicer 4360-140, it started getting hard to shift and then froze completly. I removed the transaxle from the mower and opened the case to find some grease, water and rust. It appears that the case was never full of grease to begin with and the poor design of no seals on the input and shifter shafts was definitely the problem. Be sure to note the location of all items when disassembling the transaxle and you will need to press the two needle bearings out to clean them properly. I cleaned all the components using solvent and before I reassembled the case I drilled and tapped two 1/4 X 20 holes for grease zerks. One was placed between the two needle bearings on the input shaft housing and the other I put in the top of the case above the drive shaft gear assembly. After reassembly it took over three tubes of grease to completly fill the case. I found it easiest to assemble the drive shaft and gears last in the case. There doesn't appear to be any solution to the lack of seals on the shafts, so my thinking is if grease is coming out of the shafts water can't get in. Inorder to grease I will need to pull the battery and the drive pulley to access the zerks, but after rebuild/repack that will be a breeze.
Roy B I have a 2002 917.271635 and i have the same problem with water in the case and dried up grease with a rusted shifter.I cleaned out transaxle put in new needle bearings and packed
with new moly grease. Reassemble and shifter is working like new but still have a lot of noise
coming from transaxle, no chip gears. I think input shaft bevel pinion gear is sliping with
bevel gear,#170986 & #170988.So if you are having a slipping problem and no sign of damage gears replace as a assembly all input shaft parts. I will let you know if this take away the noise and slipping problems that i have. A word of advice don't buy any more manual lawn tractors. John Deer puts this same manual transaxle on it lower price units that you find at Lowe's and Home Depot etc. If you buy Deer get it from a Deer Dist. Yes they are higher priced but they are the real thing and not a copy cat with a Deer name and craftsman quality. See you on a Deer.

Richard L Mccomas sears has parts for this unit and the -139 unit.
judy This tranny sucks big time. I bought a 2nd one before I saw these postings-never again. True enough both had water in them. The 2nd one has cratered too. will be looking for an alternate-any suggestions?
gary Sear mower with 4360 140 trans was shifting hard and is now stuck in 4th gear. What should I do to repair this thing, thank
Lance W I too have had the same problems as many of you. My Sears tractor is 3 or 4 years old. It has the 4360-180 transaxle. I took it apart today and yep, the input shaft is loose and there is water in the housing. After ordering a new input shaft ($133.00) from Sears along with a 12T pinion and some new mower blades, I'll wait to see what happens. I was planning on buying a 2nd mower for our 5 acres. I've had two Sears mowers so far, but my next mower will be purchased from our local John Deere store. NO MORE CRAPSMAN anymore.
Mike I pulled the transaxle apart and cleaned all of the gears. No broken or worn parts. Shifter assembly very hard to move. Has external rust. How do you get the shaft assembly off. Does it unscrew via the square screw?
Larry Just wanted to thank all who have posted comments to this board. I too have tranny problems with the Dana D4360-140. Was given the mower from my Aunt as it stopped going into reverse and Sears told her they'd fix it for $700.00, it was cheaper for her to buy a new one. I dropped the tranny last evening and intend to clean it up and tear into it to fix, shifting arm is froxe solid so will see when I get into it what the problem is, fix that then add 90 weight oil as well. Hopefully that will do the trick, I will let you all know either way.
Thanx for all the help.


Lee I was using my Craftsman to pick up sticks and paper in my yard when my drive belt broke. I tried installing a belt of the same approximate size, but the belt was too tight and it would go into gear for about 30 seconds and then pop out. I thought that the belt was too tight, so I ordered another one from Sears. I installed the new belt, but the mower kept jumping into reverse and the clutch/brake would not stop it. I could only stop it by turning the key off. I guess I will just take it apart to see if there is any damage and then decide where to go from there.
Harold Does anyone know if a SPICER #6800-2, ayp #40219 will replace a 4360-140?
Harold Have my trans. apart. Have same problems as everyone else. Couple of questions: Do the gears on the intermediate shaft line up with the notches facing the towards the sliding shift mechanism? Didn't look as closely as I should when i took it part. Do the 2 of the 4 notches in the gears have to line up with the two sliding shift mechanisms? I see an upper bearing on the input shaft but there is no lower bearing and there is a lot of play. Is there a lower needle bearing as well?
ED I think the 6800-2 or the 6800 will replace the
4360-140 but you will need to lose the axle spacers
as the housing on these goes all way to the wheel hubs. The 6800 transaxles are oil lubed.

Larry I experienced all this nonsense too. Completely discusted with Sears but mostly with the lack of info available on the web from Dana and the 140. Bought a new 6800-2 with factory warranty on eBay. $199.00 delivered. Slipped in with no trouble at all. Yes you have to loose the axle spacers and at least in my case exchange the clutch/brake lever from the old one. Filled it with 90 weight. Runs like a champ. Shifts like never before. Now I have a serviceable transaxle. I don't anticipate any problems in the future. I will advise should there be any.
daniel roberts dana d4360-140. stuck in reverse.took apart transaxle.ahh yes water and dirt and rust.looked like a stuck shifter.not a problem.cleaned it up.put grease back in it.put it all back together and its still in reverse.the shifer moves but no foward gear.should i haved used gear oil instead?what is the detent and what holes do the two balls need to be in.do the gears need to be "lined up" in some way?i noticed when i put it all back together that when i slid the clutch coller towards the 12t gear then back,the clutch keys never came back with the coller.should it have went back some how?can someone help.please!!!so i dont have to mow my acre and a half yard in reverse,again
ron I have the same prolbem. I have about 1/2 inch play on the shaft on all sides. I bought this mower new 4 years ago. When I called sears they said that they haven,t had any complaints about this. maybe if we get together a large complaint will be listened to.
Jim G Alright, my 4360-140 died last week. I found this web page, awesome, went on Ebay and found a seller: wildcat46 selling a 6800-2 (they sent me a 6800-1, but it works the same). Bought it for $200 shipped to me. Filled it with 10 oz 80w90 gear lube, bolted it in and were in business. Here is a Dana data page for the 6800-1
Good luck

CRAIG I have just replaced my slipping transaxle with a new spicer. 2 problems. I cannot adjust my shift linkage. The stick is in the 1st gear position, but I'm actually in nutural. 2nd, it will shift great while engine is off. while running and clutch brake depressed fully, I cannot change out of gear. any help is greatly appreciated. thanks
Ulyss R The Transmixer in my 2002 Craftsman 917271552 just swarmed... grinding gears, wobbly input shaft. Good info here guys, looks like I will need it. Wish me luck. Sears Sucks. Onward Ever!
spaghetti 4360-140 Split the casing, problem was water intrusion same as others. Took pictures, printed assembly diagram from the manual, degreased everything in a 5 gal bucket with orange/citrus stuff and small brush, ran the shifter shaft and most gears on the wire brush on the bench grinder to clean them up and emory wet/dry sandpaper 600 grit on the shifter shaft. Had problems with it binding when case halves were tightened and figured it was due to the brass bushings needing to be rotated so that the key was allgined in the slot on the casing. Had a problem with the shifter shaft showing neutral on top plate when transmission was in reverse, took shifter shaft off and held it in the bench vise and bent it a little and that got it so back in agreement with the top plate. Works great now, some noise, only regret is that I used some general purpose grease that they had at the auto parts store vs. the recommended 4300 grease - figured that might make it quiter.
Randall Smith Sears LT1000 trans went to pot. Found this page and am very interested in the fact that Sears denies any complaints. Just bought several power tools and they weren't Sears! Never again. Still looking for a new trans. Checking out all suggestions on this sight. I'm all for organizing and protesting to Sears as a group.
Armand Chargois Can someone please forward this needed info? Is the Dana transaxle Model#4360-140 a unit that is filled with oil or grease? what type of oil/grease should I use? I am planning on using the old lawnmower not as a mower,but just as something to ride around on. may change the rear pully. any info on this would also be appreciated. thank you for your time and effort. Sincerely,Armand
Larry I have a Sears LT1000,8 Years old. Last year shifter was getting harder to shift,then it finally froze solid in 3rd gear. After reading here,I took off rear cover to access transaxle housing. Drilled a small hole on the top,filled with gear oil and plugged hole with small bolt. drove around yard to lube all the gears. Tried to shift and it moved! Drove some more then worked the shifter back and forth,works great now. If it leaks,who cares,it runs and I can shift(its not leaking).
Howard Otton I hasve a leaking oil seal that drips onto the tire and rim. I ordered a new oil seal that goes on the axle.
Does anyone know how to install it?

gerry Great info folks, probably to much info ha ha.i checked ebay for a replacement for the Dana transaxle Model#4360-140 and can not find any one .are they still around ?, and does any body have a link they could send me please. i am not paying sears a f------ penny
rob anyone have a 4360-140 for parts-case,chain?
gerry i installed the new spicer trans i bought on ebay, but trans will not engage so i filled it to the top with 85w gear oil .but it still wont engage a gear also no breaks
Herb Bullis I have a Sears mower with the same trans axle. Never would shift right from day one. The second year it would not come out of reverse unless you rocked it with the clutch. Took it apart replaced a couple items I forget. Typical Sears junk. By the third year I had to replace the deck from rust through! Last year I put a used engine on it. The engine one day just went up in blue smoke. No warning boom.
This mower is used on a flat Florida postage stamp yard. Junk! Want a tractor get a Simplicity. I had two. Not cheap but tough as nails.

Chris I also have the Spicer axle in my tractor. Had the problems with the shifter like the rest of you. Took it apart and found huge rust inside. cleaned everything up and wire brushed the rust off. re greased the whole thing. The next year, was making a banging noise when driving. Took it apart again. MORE RUST! water in the grease as well. Replaced the bearings and regreased. This year, took it out of storage. Shifter would not move...let sit outside for a couple of days because I was frustrated. When I took the axle apart...more water. cleaned it up again and let my son go mow the lawn. Within about 10 minutes, it started jumping and then input shaft was loose. The input shaft bearings were shot...I removed the shaft and found all kinds of rust in the bearings. Th water was pooling on the large pulley where the belt was, following the shaft down and into the axle. MAJOR design flaw!!! Called Sears...they could care less! They have my money and yours.... When mine failed, my son panicked and was heading towards my truck not thinking to push in the clutch pedal...DANGEROUS situation!!! Class action lawsuit?? When I get the new axle, I am going to seal the pulley and shaft with RTV so it will not go down it and into the axle. If someone does hear/start a class action lawsuit, let me know!!!
charlie Not sure which Transaxle I have on my Poulan Tractor Model PO15538D, but, on the top, right behind the shifter-shaft, I noticed a small triangular plate, secured by a 5/16 bolt. Removed the bolt and the small triangular cover, and it exposed two small rusty springs. I used WD-40 in the 3 holes, then also on the 2 springs, I then squeezed the 2 springs with a pair of pliers, to work the rust out. Dropped the 2 springs back in the holes, replaced the cover and the bolt...Transaxle now shifts fine, where as it would not shift at all before, had even broken the shift rod with the shift ball on the end, by trying to force it and kick on it, to get it to shift. I had previously replaced the shift rod,and put the shift ball from the broke one onto the one I replaced it with. Also have a Murray, which has a rubber plug right next to the Shifter shaft, on top of the transaxle. pulled it out with channel locks, looks like a good place to maybe drain and refill the transaxle. The rubber plug broke, but probably cheap to replace it. Just for your info, if it helps anyone.
charlie charlie Not sure which Transaxle I have on my Poulan Tractor Model PO15538D, but, on the top, right behind the shifter-shaft, I noticed a small triangular plate, secured by a 5/16 bolt. Removed the bolt and the small triangular cover, and it exposed two small rusty springs. I used WD-40 in the 3 holes, then also on the 2 springs, I then squeezed the 2 springs with a pair of pliers, to work the rust out. Dropped the 2 springs back in the holes, replaced the cover and the bolt...Transaxle now shifts fine, where as it would not shift at all before, had even broken the shift rod with the shift ball on the end, by trying to force it and kick on it, to get it to shift. I had previously replaced the shift rod,and put the shift ball from the broke one onto the one I replaced it with. Also have a Murray, which has a rubber plug right next to the Shifter shaft, on top of the transaxle. pulled it out with channel locks, looks like a good place to maybe drain and refill the transaxle. The rubber plug broke, but probably cheap to replace it. Just for your info, if it helps anyone.
Chris Ordered the new one...still waiting for it..they cannot tell me when I will be receiving it.
Roland I have a 1997 or '98 Craftsman tractor with a D4360-128 transaxle in it. I assume that this transaxle has to be very close to the D4360-140 units. My shifter was hard from day one when I bought it new and has progressively gotten worse to the point where it's froze. I haven't opened it up yet, but it would probably be safe to say that I have the same issue. Water and rust inside. I have not had any other issues with the tranny. No noises, clunking, or any other anomalies. I am not super mechanically inclined and if I take too many things apart on it, I won't get it back together again. My question is this. Can I take either the bottom or top cover off without pulling the tranny out of the tractor? If I have to turn the tractor over to do this, I will, but I don't want to remove the tranny from the tractor. Also, which cover would I take off so as not to disturb any of the parts in there? I'll clean out the water, grease and rust and either fill it back up with grease or a heavy gear lube. I'm not sure which is better to use in this case. I'm also open for suggestions on that matter too. Any help from you guys would be greatly appreciated. It sounds like some of you guys have more experience at this than you ever wanted to have.
Don Kay The bearings for the vertical shaft are 5/8"I.D., 13/16"O.D. x 1/2" high. You need two, BUT I swapped them for oil impregnated bronze bushings. Available from W.W.Grainger & MSC Industrial Supply, either bushings or needle bearings. If the shaft is O.K., try bushings.
Don Kay I just rebuilt mine. You have to take it out to work on it. Disconnect the shift linkage under your left cheek (7/16" & 3/8"). Take off the wheels, washers and sleeves behind them, then there are 2 bolts above the axles (1/2" wrench) and 2 up forward (also 1/2"wr.). Then it drops out. Use a floor jack. Put it on a bench and take the big pulley off and take out the (16 or 17?)torx bolts holding the halves together. Work a putty knife or thin screwdriver between them and pry. They're glued together so keep at it. After that, you have to figure out what's wrong. If its the input shaft, drive it out and check the bearings. I replaced mine with oil impregnated bushings. Replaced means drive out the old piece of crap bearings with a socket and a big hammer. Then replace them, greash them liberally and push the input shaft back in. Does it wiggle - a lot? Got to replace the shaft.
larryw Just found this site. GREAT! LT1000 with sticking shift 3rd gear.
J Helmeset Awesome site. Great info. Based on what I read here, I successfully replaced the transaxle in my scotts riding mower. Uses a Dana Spicer 4360 149 transaxle. I passed on opening and repairing, afraid one of the many bolts holding the tranny halves together would not cooperate. Plus I got a brand new transaxle from www.surpluscenter.com for 149$, plus 30$. Beats the $800 and then $390 quotes from my local John Deere dealer (who builds Scotts mowers). Two suggestions. First, getting the tires off was a bear. Finally built a wheel puller with steering wheel/harmonic balancer from Sears and threaded rod. Pick up a few big bolts from tractor supply to push against the shaft as the tire comes to the end of the axle. Make the threaded rod a little long, so the angle they pull at is less steep, but not too long that the puller cant reach the end of the transaxle shaft. A little heat from a torch, lots of penetrating oil, and pinging on the puller to vibrate like others suggested, and you will succeed. Second, don't bother with trying to undo the electrical connector on the reverse sensor, just slide it off where it connects onto the transaxle by pulling it parallel to the tranny (look at the new one and it will make sense). Again great site, good luck to all. J

mober can i get a link for the needle bearing on the input shaft of the 4360-140?
thanks a lot.

dave s. i just blew the tranny in my tractor too! after reading all the comments everyone wrote about the dana 4360-140 i know that it's gonna cost about 500.00 to fix this. my tractor is only 3 years old and of course my warranty ended in april of this year!!!! sears say's there is nothing they can do. but will gladly stick it up my butt and fix it. i thought if it says craftsman on it they replace it for free!! guess not!!!
ken h. Also am working on a 4360-140.can anyone tellme the easiest way to get the detent balls back in correctly.iam reassembling the transaxle after tearing it down to replace the input shaft bearings,shaft 12 tooth gear and bevel gear.i lost the original detnt balls when i disassembled the unit , and will have to order new ones. any advise will be greatly appreciated.
ken h. In reference to my question earlier, i figured out how to get the detent balls in placebut, heres another one. Does it matter which gear the selector is in when dropping the detent balls in place, which by the way, are nothing but .250 steel bearings.I purchsed mine at the local hardware store for 23 cents each instead of the 2.47 or so Sears charges.If anyone knows what I am asking ,please give me a reply,if my question is not too stupid, thanks
robert morris I have the same transaxle as everyone else on this page.I am still working on it. my problem was the shift was frozen. so I took it apart had to hammer the shifter arm out of case,and emery paper the parts. every thing else ok. put in more grease and now putting it back together. I shur hope this is all.
ken hyatt I fixed my transaxle shifter also the same way,
so you should be ok .I slipped a rubber cup seal
on the shaft tightly against the case to keep water
out.If you don't have one you can use an o-ring and put a lot of grease on it. Good Luck.

Jason Nelson I have a craftsman lawn tractor model 917-271530 purchased 12yrs ago new from Sears. Tractor has been used extensively for cutting, pulling/hauling yard debris over moderate terrain. In 2009 my property was flooded with 8' of fast moving water due to heay rains. The mower was (and has been the entire time) kept in an storage barn elevated 1' off the ground. During the flood the mower was completely under water. Afterwards, cleaned the outside, cleared the air and fuel ports, cleaned the carb and plug ports w/new plug, air filter, fuel filter, and carb gasket , and changed the oil. The Briggs and Stratton 14.5 HP engine charged to life. Have used the mower since on a weekly basis during the season and then first use this season...clunk, clunk, grind. Transaxle is clunking, and now grinding with no movement. I am confident I too will find water inside this unit. Upon completing my repairs after the flood and hearing the unit run like new again I was so impressed I documented it and sent a letter stating so to Craftsman/Sears to give Kudos and received nothing in return. Not even a thanks for buying our product loyal customer. After reviewing this forum and noting all of the issues stated it obvious to me the problem is not the machine or its parts rather the manufactur/retailer handling the product. Thus far I have found used transaxles to be located next to unicorns and priced the same. I have found a viable replacement- New Upgraded Peerless MST 206-545C Transaxle; fits Sears, Craftsman, Poulan, Husqvarna, UK Ride-ons for $285.00 from thru Ecrater and found several used ones on Ebay but agin the price vs. replacement makes it not worth it. May as well get a new one. Dissapointing that we cant get quality products anymore. Maybe nothing does run like a Deere.
Chris P Craftsman 917.271634 (LT1000, 16.5 HP), D4360-140 transaxle, same problem as everyone else.

Opened the case, drained the water, replaced 1 brass bushing, input needle bearing, and reworked shift keys (welded the tips to add metal and filed down to shape). Repacked with Ford axle grease, but it still won't engage enough to run. (Lurches at first, but pops out of gear and makes a light grinding noise.) I'm hoping that there's just too much heavy grease around the shift keys and that it needs to be 'worked' to move the grease around so that the keys can spring up properly. If not, maybe I'll break down and buy new shift keys.

Go to www.mcmaster.com - part number 5905K25. They also stock brass bushings that will work. Can't say enough good about that retailer.

Paul Hunt My tractor started out hard to shift after the first 3 years.I have read all of these bad reports and am very concerned.My tractor is a 2002 model 6 speed.It now is making a grinding noise while driving.Has anyone contacted sears to see if dana has had a recall?How about the better business bureau?I am not mechanically inclined to take it apart,and surely cannot afford a few hundred dollars to get it fixed,any ideas?
sbentilla Anyone have a part number for the detent balls in a Dana Spicer 4360-73? Been all over the web with no luck...

Paul Hunt All of you men with the problems with this transaxle,why dont we contact the better business burea and issue a complaint?My 9 year old craftsman lt1000 is jerking,clunking,and sounds like its going to fall apart.I did take one mans advice and drilled a hole in the lower bottom and put a grease zert in it,it shifts a lot easier but still clunks.I have e-mailed dana-spicer the maker of this and have not heard a thing.There is a company in ohio and i found the number on line,lets bombard them with calls 740-694-2055.
Paul Hunt As to my other 2 postings,i mowed yesterday,the clunking and jerking was getting worse,i got the front yard mowed and then the transaxle made its last jerk and shes gone now.I can shift in to each gear without using the clutch and can push the tractor by hand in all gears and the trans does not move.Anyone have any ideas,other than a new transaxle?My last sears 8 hp lasted me 15 yrs.this is a piece of sh_t and will be my last craftsman mower for sure.Shame on you sears for all the years i have been a dedicated customer,but no more.
Darkmaxim 01' Craftsman Model 917.271634. Just crapped out today. 7-4-11. That's how posts should read! That way we know how old they are. Transaxle started freezing 1 month ago. Deck pulley failed ruining a shaft and bearing. Got all parts for deck from searspartsdirect.com.
DC July 7th, 2011 - FYI to all who are still having problems with this transaxle, the 6800-3 will not work as a replacement - it spins counterclockwise - you'll have 5 or 6 reverse gears and 1 forward gear - like me. Sears states that this is a correct replacement for the 4360-140 but it's not, the 6800-2 is what you want. I got the 6800-3 from Wildcats46 on eBay, and am pretty much stuck with it - no returns.
DC August 2nd, 2011 - Update to my post above, Wildcats46 did take the 6800-3 back and shipped me a 6800-1 in return. Put 10oz of 80w90 gear oil in it and bolted it in. Everything works great. Good luck all :)
John Thompson I just finished tearing down and rebuilding my father-in-law's Dand Foote transmission. After reading this site, I took it apart and also found a bit of water inside the case - maybe a few tablespoons.
I cleaned out all the grease, inspected the gears, etc. They all seemed okay, and we didn't have any thumping inside the transmission, so I think we were good there. We did use some high grade sand paper to sand the shaft that the shifting collar and keys slide on. We noted what looked like a little patina of rust on it. After sanding it all as best we could, and reassembling it with new grease, it appeared to shift great. A few days later, it's back to the same old crap - can't shift from gear to gear, etc.
I did note when we had it open that the shifting plate was the rustiest thing - and the detent ball bearings had worn grooves into the bottom of the plate...very irregular grooves. I used a dremel to grind off all the rust I could, and used Naval Jelly on it before reassembling.
My question is - does it sound like the damn thing is just shot, or could the detent balls be causing the issues? Or is there an issue where the keys and collar slide inside the gears?

I'd appreciate any advice. My father in law has resigned to keeping it in 5th gear and adjusting his speed with the throttle...but that doesn't get you reverse!

Gary Alford I lave a J.D LA 105 I bought 9-2010 with 50 hrs on it that is noisy and wife says its getting hard to shift. I am going to take it back to the dealer next month in hopes of getting another trans. I won't tell them but I think washing the unit off with water might be a bad thing.
Graywolf On EBay, Wildcat46 has both the Dana and the Peerless transaxle listed. I just purchased one to replace the one in my Craftsman tractor. I got 5 years out of it using it just to plow snow with in the winter. Lousy lifespan eh? May try some of the suggestions here to rebuild the old one to have a spare or build me a dunebuggy. LOL BTW, the unit that I took out of mine was a Peerless.
pitt quirinale
doug austin where can i get imput shaft bearings
doug austin where can I get imput shaft bearings for 4360-152 transaxle? can I get a part#
doug austin where can I get imput shaft bearings for 4360-152 transaxle? can I get a part#
Angi Rushing I am fortunate enough to have had a dad that taught me how to work on my own mower. Sadley enough is has passed and I have run in the biggest problem yet! Dana d4360-140! After reading all of these posts I wonder why wasn't this transaxle recalled?! Same wobble and worn shaft. Never has changed gear like it should have now because of poor manufacturing, I am sinking more money into something that will probably do the same thing because I am replacing with the same poor quality parts!! All my dad or I have ever owned is a Craftsman but this makes me consider changing brands! Sorry Sears!
Don Nusbaum Not going to do you much good to change brands, they all use the same few transaxles. I replaced a peerless with a dana-spicer in my 2002 craftsman last year. Thought being a dana it would be tough as nails. When I got it I found it to be lubricated with grease, not even a gear lube in it. First thing I did was turn it upside down and drill and tap 2 holes in the top case. Turned it back over and filled it with AMSOIL 75-140 severe gear lube and put plugs in the holes. Installed it and plowed snow with it all winter, record breaking snowfall. Have had no problems with it other than it drips a bit of lube, due I think from the fact they never ment for it to have a gear lube in it.
Mel where do you find replacement parts or complete
transmission for this mower

Chris 2012 March 01 - Input shaft needle bearings: Use Part Number SCE108. Your local auto parts store should have, probably used as a pilot bearing, didn't research that far. Cost $6+/- all depends on shipping online. Will be replacing tomorrow. I plan on packing the axles with grease and putting gear lube in the gear box. We'll see???
Gerry I have a John Deere L100 with a Dana/Spicer transaxle model 4360149. this is the second one in 9 yrs. the first one, after 4 yrs. of use, the input shaft bearings went and ruined the bevel and ring gears. took it apart and found no water. i mower 3+ acres and plow snow 6-7 hrs. each time there is more than 3 inches. I bought a replacement from John Deere at that time for $267 and some change. Now the second one is starting to go. been checking on line and this model is discontinued, which means the input shaft kit is no longer available either. i'm told there is no other model that will work either. I'm gonna take the bearings out of the first transaxle to get new ones. Luckily we have a place that specilizes in bearings and seals and take the shaft to a machine shop and have them make the new shaft and washers. Hopefully, i can save this thing since Dana's subdivion, Foote has gone out of business and parts for this thing are no longer available.
clyde I have a craftsman lawn tractor that is 14 years old, model number 917.270532 with the dana 4360-140 6-speed transaxle. It has been a workhorse on our little 4 acre honey farm. Unfortunately, the drive shaft, part number 120473x stripped at the the bevel gear location and would not run any longer. I contacted Sears Parts Direct and ordered the parts necessary to rebuild the trans. The total cost; $221. I got all the parts except the drive shaft. They sent me the same incorrect part 3 times. It has been a month now and they finally contacted me to say the part is no longer made. Can anyone tell me where I might get this drive shaft?
Chad Hello all, I have a john deere la105 with a busted rear transaxle Part number is spicer 4360-212 / AM134770 does any one know of a different part number i could us for this. The best price i can find is $315 on ebay. I have looked all over but no luck on a different part number. Thanks again
Victor Borden do you know where I can get a bevel pinion #170986 off of a craftsman riding mower? Can't find one.

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