chewing up belts on snowthrower on sears tractore


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chewing up belts on snowthrower on sears tractore

steve
Hello,

I have a Sears 18.5hp lawn tractor. It is just over two years old. I've purchased the 40" snowthrower attachment (model#486.24839). I've had problems with it throwing the belts & breaking them. Is there anything I can check?

Also, does anyone know of a cheaper alternative to the belt (part# 47846)? Sears charges $55 for replacement belts. I gotta believe there are either better or comparable belts out there for less $$.

thanks!

steve
Here's an update.

I found a belt at the local auto parts store that works well. Bonus is it $30 cheaper!

What I found is a generic belt. The 'goodyear' number is B111. It is about 1" shorter. It installs tightly without the tensioner pulley. In fact during operation it slides over the tensioner pulley. You will need to use a screw driver or pry bar to install the belt.

In doing this I discovered the design flaw. When you have the snow blower in the up position the belt is level. When the attachment is done in the operating position, the belt angles down. There are no guides other than a pulley in front of the tensioner pulley. What happens is the belt will flop around under power. It eventually jumps off the guide & tensioner pulleys. If you're lucky it just comes off. Otherwise it gets snagged and breaks.

Since I put on the shorter belt, it does not flop around under power. I ran it for about an hour under power lifting and lower the snow blower. I even used it to cut through an iced up snow bank. It worked wonderfully.

Now the only thing left is to get Sears to admit the design flaw and refund my $55!


Claudia Fiaschetti I have the same three year old snowthrower. The problem is replacing the shear pins. It takes a 1/4"x2"pin. Sears no longer supplies this pin. Do yiy know of another source? Thanks, Frank
steve Thanks for the info on the shear pins. I've gone through my spares, so I'll be trying www.jackssmallengines.com. They show that part number as a shear pin for a MTD. Are you sure they haven't listed the pins under another number? The auger belt is no longer under the same number as the one in the manual.

btw, we had a storm overnight. It seems I'm back in the same boat. My new belt stretched and got jammed in the drive pulley on the snowthrower. I had to remove the pulley to free it. Part of it got worn flat so it jumps off, even with using the tensioner. :(

My next attempt at fixing this problem is to try putting a threaded rod through the front mower brackets I'm putting two pieces of metal conduit to act as rollers. My theory is that if I can keep the belt as straight for the longs possible run, it shouldn't jump off. Wish me luck.

Joel Automotive belts and garden belts differ in construction. Garden belts have a wider V verses the auto belt with a thinner V. Using auto belts in a garden application causes premature belt failure, excess heat on the pulleys and slippage. The auto belt will ride low in the V of the pulley causing the bottom of the belt to rub the pulley instead of just the sides. Power transfer is only effective when the sides of the belt transfer the power, not the bottom of the belt. The surface area of the belt sides is much greater than the surface area of the bottom. I have put auto belts on in a pinch but they do not work as well. In one instance, the tractor would not go into nuetral as the belt continued to drive even though it was disengaged. On another failure under load was the end. Auto belts are ok in a pinch, but don't be penny wise and pound foolish. Get the right belt, not just a cheaper belt. If you can find the right belt cheaper then you got a deal. You will forget all about that cheap price of yours when that cheap belt brakes in a heavy snow. I am reaserching the manufacturer of the belt, when I find it, I will let you know.
Joel The belt is manufactured by American Yard Products. The part number 47278 was superseeded to 47846 which is a Sears number, not a AYP number. I have not found a substitute replacement yet.
steve Thanks for the info Joel. I'd love to hear what your research digs up.

The first auto belt I purchased had the exact same dimensions cross sectionally. Since it broke just like the garden belt, I compared the construction and it looked exactly the same. The only difference I could find is that the length was different, of course that was on purpose.

My reasoning behind the narrower belt is that it would hopefully stay seated better. The original belt sat very high in the pulley making contact on half the 'V'. I thought that also contributed to the belt jumping and jamming behind the auger pulley.

The other day I was in the local Sears and lo and behold, the snow blower they had on display was now using the narrower belt. So I'm pretty sure I'm on to something.

In any case, I live in Massachusetts and as I'm sure you're aware I've gotten quite a bit of testing done yesterday (2/17). My narrow belt worked fine for two passes on my driveway. When I was clearing my walk for the second time, it finally jumped the pulley and jammed itself behind the auger belt. There must have been something bent or messed up during shipping. So I guess I'm just going to have to suck it up and pay Sears to repair something that was never right in the first place.

steve Thanks!

I took another look at my belts. I mis-spoke before. The only belts that have not broken are the automotive ones. But I was able to look at the construction where they were worn off from getting jammed in the pulley. It looks the same.

Also, I forgot to mention that I bought the snow thrower after the tractor. I got it at the end of the season two years ago and only used it once then. Last year was a mild winter here, so I only used it two or three times. But as I recall, the belt popped off each time I ran it.

This year is the year for breaking belts. The $55 replacement belt I got from Sears only lasted through 1 1/2 uses ( I had it on less than 10 days). So its really looking like either a design flaw or something out of whack. I've checked in recheck the manual to see if I did something wrong. It isn't much help, so I guess I'm off to the Sears store to see how that one is installed.

sanford hochman Sears no longer carry's the v belt for their snowblower which I bought about 8 years ago. The same size auto belt does not work. Is there anywhere that carry's the type belt for the snowblower? Thanks
Sanford Hochman

steve Hello,

I've found belts at Jack's Small engine web site. In any case, I've never been able have a belt last any longer than 2 half hours sessions. I'm modifying my set up to use a hydraulic motor driven by a hydraulic pump off a John Deers 318 tractor. I've considered a shaft drive, but the lift mechanism of the blower gets in the way.

-steve

Keith Same problem with belts fraying, breaking, twisting off the pulleys. They last for a couple of good snows, if you're lucky. Nobody around here will work on it so I called Sears for service. The regional tech came out looked at it for a while, said he didn't know what the problem was, billed me almost $100. and that was that. Sears wants about $74. for a belt, including shipping. A local distributor sells them for about $46., which still ain't cheap. They measure 5/8 wide by 115 long and are Kevlar reinforced. Sears latest trick is that they tell you that your part number is not correct, but they refuse to give you the new part number (so that you can look elsewhere). I'm really fed up over this. Sears sux bit time!
Keith big time, I mean.
Bob I haven't had a problem breaking belts, but the belt is probably stretched after two snow seasons and does slip and goes onto the "wrong" side of the idler pulley. I called Sears and got the runaround. I finally called Agri-fab (manufactures the snow blower for Sears.) and the tech told me that they changed the belt to a 5/8" x 114.25". The problem is that you need to take the pully off of the auger to install it because it is wider than the original. (still $55.00 plus shipping). I called our local Industrial Belt Supplier and when I asked for belt for the original size, approx. 112" - I was quoted $18.00. I can't imagine the 114.25" as being much more.

jon NAPA B112 - 5/8 X 115" industrial v-belt for under $30. I found it in stock
steve
Thanks!

I've sorta solved my problem. My Dad replaced his 27 year old Simplicity Sovereign 7016. I have it now. It has a single stage snow blower which doesn't throw as far. But it doesn't break belts either! :)

btw, I found the B111 automotive belt was 5/8" by approximately 112". It runs the same - around $18. The belt did o.k. It didn't break, but kept jumping off every other outing.

Thanks for your research. I figured there was a small design error.

-steve

Nick I have a john deere L130 lawn tractor with a 42" snow blower. I was having a problem with the belt staying on. I bought the NAPA B112 belt to replace the JD belt. It still would not stay on even after adjusting the tensioner. I discovered that one of the 2 smaller pulleys that the belt makes a turn and goes around under the auger pulley was pitched inward. the sheet metal bracket which is pretty thick, bent which in turn made the pulley pitched inward. The belt appears as though it is supposed to come off this pulley straight or even at a slight outward angle looking down at it. This would explain why the pulley keeps coming off. I tried to hammer the bracket so it was straight, but it appears that where the pulley bolt goes through the hole, the hole is actually dome shaped now which is causing the bolt to tighten at an angle. To temporarily solve this problem, I disassembled the pulley and removed the thick spacer washer. I then used a standard 3/8" flat washer and ground it down to an angle on the bench grinder so it was wedge shaped instead of flat. Then I reassembled the pulley with the angle of the wedge basically countering the angle of the bent bracket. I cleaned up the snow banks from the snow plow which were very thick. It is working fine now. The belt is slightly longer than the originalm but there is adequate play in the idler puller to compensate. Does anybody have a problem with the impeller bending backwards and grinding against the bolt heads inside the impeller shroud?
need a belt? If you are having trouble getting the correct belt from sears. The OEM is Agri-fab. Follow the link below or call Agri-fab directly 800 448-9282
They have the belts in stock. My Sears order has been "Backordered" for weeks
http://search.cartserver.com/search/search.cgi?cartid=a-8671&category=Agri-Fab_Parts&maxhits=20&keywords=47846

Jim Starling I Had the same PROBLEM on my Sears snow blower 40" with the belt I replaced it with a gates Industrial belt #B112 5/8 wide X 115 I got it at
a Hydralic supply dealer under 25.00 works well.

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Jim Same with my Tears, I mean Sears snow thrower. Busted the original belt and Sears is now out of stock with a delivery date of 10 days. Will try Agri-Fab next.
Did try a NAPA B112 and it lasted for about 30 minutes. Came off numerous times and then jammed and snapped. The amount of bounce in the belt tells me that something is wrong, I just can't figure out what.

Buzz Same problem with a Murray LTS40 40" snow thrower also manufactured by Agri-fab same unit as Sears Craftsman or mastercraft only difference is the mounting package, mine I mounted to my White Outdoor lawn tractor.I broke 2 belts and threw 2 each lasting about 1/2 hour.I believe Nick came up with right cure I looked at mine and this is a new blower first time installed on a tractor,one of the idler pulleys under impeller pulley was straight (the left) the right side (looking from behind blower) was bent inward,I took both pulleys off one side (left) the frame mount was straight and smooth the (right) side of frame mount (which is thick steel) had a bend in metal frame where idler bolts to which could be seen with naked eye and definately felt by rubbing hand over.I originally saw this when I painted blower but thought factory must of stamped it this way for a reason,after confirming with another mechanic he told me same as I thought this should also run straight.I did same as Nick I put a heavy washer in vise half bolt hole above vise and ground 1/2 washer down to a near knife edge,took that washer and placed it in frame so it shimmed idler wheel straight and tightened it,I also had to replace the original pulley because it was bend by more then 1/4" near outside from belts jamming and breaking.We've had 3 major snow falls since plus the 2 that piled up before I could do driveway because of problem with belts.This blower has been blowing snow and heavy snow at that since this modification without missing a beat or breaking or throwing belts.I think some of these metal frames must of been stamped wrong at factory (maybe on purpose so they could sell belts)Since I've done this repair blower works excellent and fires snow 40 to 50 feet without a problem.I'm doing a very long driveway with 2 big turn arounds takes an hour steady blowing then drive down and do another about 75 yards long. Thanks to Nick for noticing the problem and bringing it to our attention.I got a cheap belt at TSC $20.00 because I wasn't sure but this belt works perfect,I think any B series belt the proper lenghth will work if the idlers are adjusted straight.Nick about impeller bending are you sure impeller is bending I found with mine that ice builds up behind impeller (I guess from heat of unit turning fast)after each use I park it in sun if there is sun to melt this if too cold I put it in garage and put kerosene heater in front of blower to melt ice,if not next time out is a problem and will either stretch belt shear pins or both if there is no ice built up between impeller and housing or bolts machine works excellent.
Buzz Follow up The belts I'm using are B118 for blower and B58 for main PTO reason mine are longer then others is I had to mount my main undercarriage frame further back on the White to clear the rods and pedal assembly under tractor for the hydrostatic transmission,the original mounting brackets that came with blower for Murray tractor I also had to modify to fit the White thus both my belts are 3" longer then normal.
Jim Okay, checked the idlers under the impeller pulley and low and behold the right side idler is bent inward. Any chance this is the way it's supposed to be or a manufacturing defect. Odd that all three of us have the same inward bend on the same idler.

I did get a new Tears, I mean Sears belt today and before I put it on I checked the drive pulley for the snow thrower belt (large one in the back). To my mind this pulley and the drive pulley immediately above it, have way to much play and could be causing the belt to wobble. Both pulleys are key mounted on a single shaft. Anybody try taking this assembly apart or check for slop? Looks to me like the bearings are bad but after taking the bolts out of the top and bottom pulleys, I cannot get them off the shaft. Suggestions for getting them off?

Buzz Jim no way in hell that these idlers should be pointed inward,the way mine was it would be trying to line belt up to opposite side of rear pulley.The belt would come off that idler aiming for left side of machine then trying to make a turn in midstream and line up with rear pulley.Since I shimmed that idler belt comes off idler inline with rear pulley after I made this mod I watched from underneath when I engaged the electric pto the belt ran true and straight with no bounce like it had before with bent idler.I believe this is a manufacturing defect when those frames were stamped at factory.My carriage pulleys are fine (because this is new & I fixed problem)your bearings may be bad if unit was run out of line like this for long time,if pulleys are keyed you will probably have to use a puller to pop them off shaft.
Jim Thanks Buzz.
I agree that this must be a manufacturing defect. Going for bearings today and while its apart I am going to shim the idler straight. No doubt that the bounce and misdirection of the belt caused the bearing failure.
Great machine when it works, wish I could say the same for Sears. Just getting a belt has been ridiculous.

Jim Went to Sears today and ordered new bearings for the drive pulley for the Auger. No way the old pulleys were coming off so I ordered new.
Interesting.
They just happened to have this particular snow thrower attachment on the showroom floor. I checked the pulleys after the drive pulley for the auger and guess what? The right side pulley, looking forward, is angled inward at a large angle. My snow thrower is 3 years old and if this is either an engineering mistake or a mis-stamped part then it has continued on for at least three years. If this is not a mistake then why would they angle this belt back at the opposite side?


brent talked to sears tech department after buying buying sears blower for tractor.My pulley is als bent.The reason for this is these blowers come with a transfer box that mounts under the tractor and has a spring loaded clutch.DId any one else get one with there blower.The guy that sold me mine may still have it.Can any one confirm this Brent
tom henderhan rock auto parts on the web b112 belt 15 and change plus shipping
Chris Brent, I have a 2001 DLT2000 and a 42" blower. There is a set of transfer pullies that go on a plate and the blower belt connects to that. Wow, I am sorry to hear everyone is having such problems. I have gotten 7 years of service out of my belt. It never jumped once. I do think I will go with the NAPA B112 given the price.
Chris The right idler pulley on my blower is angled too. It must be designed that way. I did find a 5/8" x 114" belt by "True Blue" for $29.00 plus $8 shipping from:

http://www.pressureparts.com/Pressure-Part-258-114.aspx

I tried the B112 Napa (Gates) belt and it promptly jumped off after 2 minutes. 115" must be too long.

Ron Kasper Hi, I have a sears 486.24838 snow thrower powered by a sears monster tractor. They were both purchased new this spring. I am having the same problem with the belt on this 2008 model. It seem the belt keeps coming off then it breaks. I was shocked to find out how much sears is asking for the new belt and they don't even have it in stock. I will not order from them if at all possible. I will try looking for the 5/8 X 114" from some of the industrial suppliers in the Milwaukee area. After only three uses the belt has come off 5 times and then broke. I am not at all pleased with this product. Sears has been no help so far.
Ron Kasper Well another belt broken after an less than two hours use. I am coming to the conclusion that the Sears tractor and snow thrower attachment product are garbage. This was a new tractor and snow thrower combo purchased this spring. The old Sears policy of Satisfaction Guarantied or your money back is apparently no longer followed. They did at first offer to let me return the whole mess for a 15% restocking fee but when I agreed the store manager recanted his offer and only would take back the snow thrower portion of the purchase. The tractor is also worthless in the snow and can't even make it up a 15 degree grade with 140 lbs. of extra weight and chains on it. I paid over $4000.00 for all this stuff and I guess I am stuck with it now. Sears stated they will send out a tech in three weeks, what great service. Buyers beware.
Ken I have a Craftsman Model #24838 blower that I bought new just over 5 years ago. It was originally installed on an 18 HP Craftsman tractor that I had purchased at the same time new. That engine blew the cylinder so I bought a 22HP Craftsman model #28738 new last year that I now have the snow thrower installed on. Last year it worked flawlessly all winter. Never threw or broke a belt one time. This year it throws the belt at least once every time I use it. I purchased a new belt (Bando Power King B111) at Alaska Bearing for $21.00 and change. I installed it and used the blower for about 20 minutes, it didn't throw the belt but it's chewing the hell out of it because it is misaligned as Steve said, when it is in the down position. I have the same issue with one of the secondary auger pullies being tilted as opposed to the other one being straight but personally don't believe this is an issue or design flaw as I used the blower for 5 winters without any belt problems. This is the first winter that I have had these issues. What I don't understand is why I haven't had any issues until this year, and it is now a major issue. The only thing that comes to mind is either I somehow mounted the clutch assembly incorrectly when I swapped it out with the mower deck this past Fall (Not likely as there are only 4 attach points, 2 fwd and 2 aft) or it could be an issue with the tensioning spring on the primary clutch assembly. Other than that, I am out of answers. Any suggestions?
Brian I have a craftsman #24838 and have the same issues as above. My right auger pulley is tilted also. I have had no problems with a belt for the last three years and this year it finally broke. The sears belt with tax and shipping was $83....bunch a BS...I measured the belt and it is 5/8x113 1/2....my question is will a 114" belt work in its place or is that 1/2 going to be to much slop? I hear others have went with the 114" belt. Any comments would be appreciated.....
John Was finally time to replace the auger belt on my Sears snow thrower attachment. Fortunately, I have not had a problem with it coming off, just had stretched to the point that it would slip when you put a load on it.

Found a Goodyear B111 ($30.98) that was recommended in stock and it works great. Blew for a good hour with no problems at all.

A hint for making installation easier, especially with the shorter belt is to raise the snow thrower, remove the attachment rod and let the snow thrower tip down. This takes tension off the belt. With it in this position it was very easy to roll the shorter belt into place.

www.castoinc.com has a premium belt (5L1140) for $19.95 and a Kevlar belt (5L1140K) for $29.95.

Cryoruggie OK - after reading all this I'm still not sure what to do. Is the solution using a B-110 or B-111 belt, or is it filing the pulley bearing thingies? The local NAPA, by the way, insists that B-111 belts are not sold in automotive stores.
This belt jumping is really not fun....

Ron Kasper Hi, Agri-Fab sent me out a new belt after I sent them pictures of my pulley system for the sears tractor. They assured me that I have it installed correctly and asked me to try a new belt. The belt is made in the USA by Dayco and is their model BP111. It is a special industrial belt made for high horse power applications and I am not sure where I can purchase one directly yet. I tried a True Blue 5/8" X 114" belt and it broke in the place where it was joined after about 3 hours of blowing snow. I purchased a Kevlar belt 5L114 from Casto Mower Parts and have it on the blower right now with about an hour of use. This is a Rotary 958114 belt 5/8" X 114" distributed by Outdoor Power Equipment Service Parts out of Glennville, GA 30427. Directly on the belt it states it made in China so I am not sure how long it will last. I will keep you informed as this belt saga continues.
John Stanley I have 2 questions. Is the length of the belt the outside or inside measurement? Has anyone tried one of the BX belts instead of the B belts?
From what I can find on internet sites the B belt is a light duty belt and the BX belt is for heavier use. Thanks John

john I recently went through the auger belt issue with my DGS 6500 tractor and 42" snowblower. I rammed into a big pile of hard-pack snow the road grader had left in front of my mail box, and broke the original belt. I spoke with the folks at my local Sears store and was told that the 47846 auger belt was not a stocked item but that I could find something that would work at an auto parts store. B-111 and B-112 belts would not stay on when clearing more than a couple of inches of snow. I was then told that my pulleys may by running out of line due to a bent pulley bolt. I replaced the idler pulley bolt with a stronger grade 8 bolt. The original bolt was slightly bent. I took all the tensions off the idler clutch assembly and spun all of the pulleys to make sure they wre running true. I measured all pulley clearances to assure they were in line. All was good. I even ground a bushing at an angle to straighten out the cocked idler pulley on the right side of the auger. Still, belts would fall off under load. Finally I stumbled across an original 47846 belt off a damaged blower at the Sears store. I talked them into giving it to me. I put the right side auger idler pulley back to it's original cocked position, installed the Sears belt, and it stays on perfectly. I have ordered two of these $63 belts for future use. The Sears belt is slightly different. It's softer, more flexible and I see a slight difference in bevel. I think it fits completely into the pulleys where the others do not. The moral of the story, suck it up and buy the Sears belt.
Bryan I am almost happy to see that others are struggling with the same issues with this attachment. Almost without exception, something has broken every time I have used my snow thrower. And, SEARS has been useless in helping rectify the situation. Not only do they want your first born for a new auger belt, but each shear bolt is over $2 AND THAT DOESN'T EVEN COME WITH A NUT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I got the same bolt, with a nut from a JD dealer for 31 cents! And, I only bought the tractor because CR recommended the tractor. I think that they should test all attachments for the tractor before endorsing it.


Bill Thanks for all the help. I too am having the same problem with my Sears 18.5HP riding mower,with the 40inch Snow thrower attachment. Keep in mind to measure the length of your old belt before you fix something that may not be wrong, like that pulley being bent. I bought a NAPA B-111 and kept kicking the belt. Upon measureing my old belt it was 112 inches in length and the NAPA belt was 115. I am now going to buy a B-110 which is 113 inches. I found a
B-109 which is 112 but not in stock, the next one they carry was a B-108 which is 111 inches long and could be too short.Hopefully this will cure the belt kicking problem. I will follow up with the results.

Bill Ok, I got the NAPA B-110 and it worked great! Finished the long driveway without a problem. THEN I decided to really give it a test and try and clear a path to my rear garage through the two foot snow and SNAP went the belt. The construction was not anything like the original belt soooo unfortunatley I'll probably buy the Agri Belt, unless I can find a Kevlar belt somewhere. Good Luck.
Ron Kasper Well after about 10 hours of blowing, the made in China Kevlar belt 5L114 from Casto Mower Parts broke. I now have the Agri-Fab belt on and it has about one hour of use in six inches of light snow. I will call around and see if I can find the Dayco BP111 belt, or have it ordered. This should be the same as the Agri-Fab unit.
Scott Hi All,

I stumbled into this message thread while searching for solutions to the same exact problem I'm having with my Cub Cadet 40" blower. I'm going to disassemble mine this week and inspect all of the pulleys. I'm hoping this resolves my issue and will keep posted.

Chad Ohman I purchased a new 486.248381 Craftsman Snowthorwer attachment on eBay (first mistake) and the guy didn't send me the clutch idler assembly that mounts under the deck area.

I have everything which has never been used, but need the clutch idler assy. Does anyone have one that they would sell, or does anyone need a new auger and everything that mounts on the front end? Including the long belt?

Buzz Getting ready to install blower for 3rd winter since my last post. I've gone 2 hard winters with lots of snow sometimes every day or every other day and blower is working perfect No more belt problems.
Rick I just bought this 40" Mdl #486.248401 used and hooked it up to my 2005 LT2000 18.5 hp tractor. I did not get all the brackets, and, this model snow thrower was not designed for my LT2000. Short story is I got it working on this tractor just fine and only had to drill two holes in the bottom front of my chassis so the front support brackets would fit. No other 'damage' was necessary. My tractor has a cable for accessory clutch engagement. The snow thrower has a rod connected to the clutch. The solution was to fashion a small mount for the cable. Look to later snow thrower manuals for the diagram of where it goes on the right side. I got the measurements for the hole from my mower deck.

Rick To continue, after getting the accessory mount working, I made the side clutch assembly brackets LH and RH, from 3" x 1/8th" steel I bought from Menards. Just cut a triangle about 2 3/4" around and measure for the holes. Drill them out and bingo - you have mounts. After getting it hooked and trying it out it threw the belt every time I dropped the front and engaged the blades. The belt is 112" and I could not find a shorter one to fit.
Rick My solution for the belt jumping was to use 3/8" steel rod run between the front mower deck mount plates. There is a 3/8" hole in each deck mount plate where the front mower supports go. Just cut a 3/8th" steel rod (Again, Menards) between the holes. It will support the belt and stop it from jumping around so much - better yet, it keeps the belt aligned with the pulleys even with the blades lowered. Works great. I drilled a hole in each end of the rod for cotter pins to hold the rod in place. Hope this helps. I can send you pictures of what I did to make this work. Got it all pretty cheap and made it work on my machine. : )
Rick OH yeah - last thing. My snow thrower has the right front pulley slanted inward also. I ground down a shim washer and set it running straight.
Doug Rick, could you send me photo of the work you did for the belt jumping issue. it has become frustrating. thanks Doug
kidkv Look for anything that could jam up the arguer bit's.
I do have a place you can get a 114 inch belt, i will comeon and post it later.. 12.50...

Rick I bought my atachment 13 month ago last winter we got 110" of snow in Wi. My 22hp tractor went through it like butter,I was very happy with my purchase,my driveway is 450',black top. This year belts were flying off. I bought a new belt from Sears and it kept flying off. I thought I wasted my money after reading this site!! I am very mechanical, however,it turns out I put the tension chain on the wrong side.(The chain came off in storage). Last night I put it on correctly(left side as you are looking at the machine) and got my machine back to what it was!!, You must check your "MAPPING" of the belt, if is right your engine may stall but your belt will not fall off, unless you have a bent pullie.
P.S. Sears can't help but Agri Fab can 1-866-576-8388

Joe C - 1 Ticked Off Customer I am having the EXACT SAME problem that you gentlemen are having! Sears first sent a repairman out from an appliance repair center ( a sub-contractor).. who admitted to never having seen one, worked on one, or been trained in working on a Sears Tractor Mounted Snow Thrower... Now I am having a "Senior Sears Technician" come to my house on Saturday to look over the System...

I did find that a Gates B110 - which is approximately 113" fits tightly .. but $25 at the local auto store... and I can pop/chew at least one belt per use.

The RHS pulley is purposely angled in on my unit.. it is actually mounted on a angled shim.. to do so.. so this must be designed in - I have no idea why.

I will call Agri-Fab, and talk to them today...

Let's face it guys - this is a CRAP DESIGN... I'm upset with them for selling it.. and upset with myself for buying it... $1400 for the snow thrower, chains, weights, etc... PIECE OF JUNK

Anybody find any Design Improvements? I like that 3/8 pin idea one guy had.. or maybe even fab up a plate with a belt guide pulley and bearing.. Not sure.. HIGHLY UPSET.. I don't mind going through a belt a season... but 1-2 per use is CRAZY... I could have paid for snow removal service at this rate...

SEARS SNOW THROWER DESIGN SUCKS - AS DOES THEIR SERVICE

Ron Kasper Joe, I agree Sears is no help and I have gone out of my way to not to purchase anything from them anymore. Agri Fab has however been very helpful. They even sent me out a belt at no charge. I sent them pictures of my pulley assembly and belt routing and they verified I had everything right. I am saving their belt just in case I have trouble with the Dayco belts. I must also state as Rick did for you to check that you have the belt installed correctly on the pulley drive system under the tractor. The instructions are very confusing. Not having the belt on correctly caused my first belt to weaken and break prematurely. At the ridiculous price of 75 or 80 bucks a pop, I had a local Dayco automotive belt supplier order me two Dayco BP111 belts. The cost was about $18.00 each. These are industrial belts and seem to hold up to the stress from the blower. They are a little stiffer and harder to get on, they also don't flop around. After several heavy snowfalls everything seem to be holding up well. I will hope my belt troubles are over for now. I will report back with any failures.
Joe C - 1 Ticked Off Customer 11-Jan-2010 - Follow-Up

I spoke to AgriFab. They said that their belt is specifically designned for higher torque and agricultural usage..that is why the after market belts are breaking so quickly.

In retrospect - the original belt did last longer.
I just could not get Sears to send me the right belt...

Part No 47846 of the sears snow thrower manual, as well as AgriFab's part number for the belt.
$65 (YOWZA) it is a 114.25 inch long belt (290.2 cm)

I ordered 2 - will keep you posted on how they hold up.

Am definitely thinking of adding additional guidance such as the 3/8" dia pins.... (anybody got a picture of that???)

ALSO - AgriFab said that the RHS Pulley is Supposed To Be Angled in - for keeping belts from slipping.

So..let's see if the "correct" part makes a difference.

Anyone know of any good websites on how to better rebuild this POS Design?

I am thinking of either a hydraulic drive..or a horizontal motor and electronic clutch...


Joe C - 1 Ticked Off Customer PS:

The woman said to check the tension plate, and make sure that it is not bent or loose....

I'm definitely going to check that.

Doug
Re: chewing up belts on snowthrower on sears tractore

I tried Rick's sugestion of the tension chain being on the wrong side. i switched it and it seemed to have better tension. unit ran fine when in the up position, as soon as i lowered it to the driveway the belt immediately flew off(just like before) F%#K! I'm still thinking of a way of adding alinment the belt when blower is in the down position. this is such bovine feces

Doug
Re: chewing up belts on snowthrower on sears tractore

sorry wrong pic

Buzz
Re: chewing up belts on snowthrower on sears tractore

Jan 12 2010 Mine is still working great I've added an electric chute deflector electric chute rotator and electric lift for blower still can lift & lower blower with electric PTO engaged on my second 5 gallon gas can this winter and everything works great No more belt problems after mods I mentioned above.Get the belt problems solved guys and you will love the blower,mine is even more pleasant with all switches inside my enclosed cab

Buzz Follow Up picture was from last winter tractor no longer has those Long Rods for lift and chute rotator on each side from blower anymore all controls are inside cab Electric for everything
Buzz Follow Up the picture was from last winter The long rods on each side for the lift and chute rotator are gone now everything is on switches inside cab
rick mallouk Ha Buzz what no cd player!!.
I,am trying to draw a floating drive shaft design
to get around any belt crap.

Helm Yo folks.
So glad I came across this site. Now I know I'm not alone in dealing with this despicable outfit called SEARS. Like a lot of you out there, I have had a though time accepting their over priced parts, plus the never ending delivery charges on top.
I will go out of my way to NOT support Sears in any way I can.I see a lot of you out there are doing the same.
My latest endeavour involved a new belt for my Sears 40" snowblower attachment. For a quality belt, at a reasonable price, that lasts up to 3 seasons (on my machine anyway) go to this website to access the Lawn & Garden Replacement Belt Catalog : www.jasonindustrial.com/pdfs/catalogs/catalog_3.pdf.
Hope this helps and good luck,
Helm.

Kevin Le B I also have this issue. I bought this kit used. I dont see the pulley beein bent inward like other described.
It Chewed 3 belts allready this winter (winter 2009-2010).
Many solutions were discussed here but no picture of the fix in question.
I was thinking about doubling all pulleys and putting 2 belts on. Abviously the second belt will have to be shorter since the impeller second pulley grove will be about 1 inch closer to the main power shaft. With 2 belts on, the power distribution to the impeller would be splitted by the 2 belt therfore the belts should last. What do you guys think of this idea. Is this a crazy plan or does it actually make sense.

Ron Kasper I broke two shear bolts on the auger the other day and the Dayco BP111 belt is still running strong. For $18.00 it was a great buy.
Woody Clark I have the Sears 42" 2 stage snow thrower, I am located in PA, about 50 miles north of phila, in Center Valley PA. In passed years we did not get alot of snow. This we did. Last year the original belt came off. I replace it with BP110 5/8" X 113" and purchased a back up Kevlar Belt B110K. Last week we got 15" of snow. The BP110 ripped off, so i put the original belt on, but that ripped off, so i put the Kevlar Belt on and that ripped off. my V type 4" pulley is also on a angle. Today I installed a Sears Belt so I will keep you posted.Belt is $63.99 plus freight.
Rick L
Re: chewing up belts on snowthrower on sears tractore

I am the Rick with the 40" Mdl #486.248401. Bought it used ($300) and hooked it up to my 2005 LT2000 18.5 hp tractor - not from WI.

Needed new brackets, and put the 3/8" pin underneath to guide the belt. Been working all winter with NO issues. Belt still in decent shape too!

Rick L
Re: chewing up belts on snowthrower on sears tractore

The previous pic shows the pin running between the two front brackets that the mower deck mounts to. There is a 3/8" hole in each bracket. Run a steel rod between them (about 10 1/4" I think - just measure it. The rod should only be long enough to drill a hole for cotter pins on each side. If it is too long it will spin and grind/throw the pins) Drill a 1/8" hole in each end for the cotter pins. That's all there is to it. Above pic shows the auger in down position - notice how the top run of the belt is even/level with the drive pulleys! Pic with this post shows the cotter from side view.

Rick L
Re: chewing up belts on snowthrower on sears tractore

couple more to follow - just to give other angles.

Rick L
Re: chewing up belts on snowthrower on sears tractore

Here is the cable clutch bracket I made from a piece of steel. Had to do this cause this model snow thrower was made for a rod clutch and my tractor has a cable clutch to engage the accessories.

Rick L Another of the cable clutch bracket I made.
Rick L
Re: chewing up belts on snowthrower on sears tractore

here you can see that I just bolted in place. The holes were already in the right place on the clutch assembly so placement was a breeze.

Rick L
Re: chewing up belts on snowthrower on sears tractore

Here are the side brackets I made for holding up the whole assembly. - remember, I only paid $300 for this so there was 'some' work to do :)

Rick L
Re: chewing up belts on snowthrower on sears tractore

Here is the only place I actually had to 'destroy' a little of my tractor. I had to drill new holes (one each side) for the front bolt of the front mounting bracket. I was not happy about this but now that all is working well - I feel ok about it.

Rick L
Re: chewing up belts on snowthrower on sears tractore

Guess I should show one shot with the wider view.

Rick L I am using the Sears replacement belt. I have used the snow thrower at least 4-5 times this year and when I do I try to do the neighbors' driveways also so I have donw plenty of snow removal.
Sears belt part # for mine is 486.47846

Ron Kasper My Dayco BP111 belt is still running strong. For $18.00 it was a great buy. Had plenty of snow this winter. I am getting so confident in this thing I am now blowing both of my driveways and the one next door.
Don L The angled RHS pulley is obviously designed that way as it is stamped at an angle on my Sears 42" model 486.248531. I stumbled across this thread looking for a solution to MY problem, which is the fact that the damn top belt always pops off. The problem is that the 9" top pulley on the power transfer unit ("clutch & pully assembly)" is lower than the drive pulley on the electric clutch. Under power, the belt rides up to the top of the idler pulley, pulling it sharply up from the 9"pulley. I cannot easily adjust the height of the assembly, and I was almost at the end of my rope when it dawned on me that I could mount a new 9" pulley on top of the existing pulley to raise the height. I ordered a new pulley for $25, and carefully mounted the new pulley to the old one, taking great pains to try to keep the weight balanced. In the end, the weight was a little off, so I get more vibratoin than I used to. The bottom line, though is that the belt is no longer pulled up on the idler, and it runs like a freaking champ. My driveway is two tenths of a mile long, and I also keep a 1/3 acre pond clear for ice skating in Wisconsin. I did modify the bushing on the RHS pulley by grinding it into a wedge. It's pretty obvious that the existing design is wrong, no matter what factory says. That pulley should never have been angled as it is. Their explanation just does not makes sense. Now that all my belts and pulleys are lined up correctly, my machine throws snow like an animal, and it does it without shredding belts. I use an off-the-shelf 56" belt for the drive, and a BP112 for the auger. Inexpensive belts that so far have lasted a season - and it's been a pretty heavy season. I'm happy. I was on the verge of spending ten grand for a bigger rig. I saved a TON of money thanks to help from you guys on this site. Thanks!
Don L Incidentally, I mounted the new pulley to the old by drilling four holes and installing bolts. I tried to keep everything spaced perfectly so that the additional weight of the bolts was the same on all sides. For reference, the belt that kept falling off was Sears part number 48138. The auger belt was 47846. I tried the BP110 and BP111, but they were too short. The BP112 was juuuust right. And the belts are less than twenty bucks.
joe C FYI - I replaced the belt with the sears (Avgro)belt - and it is definitely lasting much longer!!!

Just don't pop it once - it will stretch or break.

Buzz Don L I had same problem but went about it a tad cheaper and different All I did was mike the difference then place a flat washer between 2 thrust washers under pulley to even up Cost ? about $1.50

Joe My 42inch blower suffered from this same affliction. I have tried the heavy blue belts from Ace, Gates Hi-power all with the same result. Rarely got through a snow without breaking one. Always keep 2 on hand.

I decided to try a cheap belt.

Agri supply
Item: 21036 - B112 BELT
114.8" X 21/32" X 13/32" - $10.49 (bought 5 of them)

This one lasted all winter but was frayed bad at the end. I do not see this as proof positive, only relating what I experienced this last winter.

Central Pa had big snows this year.

I believe the lack of proper bushings on pivot points that the blower itself eventually gets sloppy and this changes the angle at which the pulleys greet the belt causing the belts to jump/break.


jerry I have a 248392 blower which is 42". I had a problem with the belt coming off in heavy snow the first year ,three years ago and what I found out was idler assembly had to much clearance in it from side to side.I put a washer in between the tractor frame and the assembly behind the pivot pin on both sides and that tightened it up real well. I have had no problems since.
Ray1274 This Sears situation about chewing, flipping and to think this misalignement thing. I have been and Industrial Millwright for about 25 yrs and don't even think of any situation that a belt runs on a shaft or twists and turn that is normal, I don't know where those engineer think goes with stealing our hard hearn money by selling us such equipement at a high cost like those snowblower are. I have solved this problem by putting a 1:1 ration right angle transfer gear box on my bed under my tractor and all is solve. A belt should at least last a few years without wearing out. Don't forget that you will only use your tractor for about 50 hrs a winter, that should cover 50 snow storms or cleaning up .. hey . this is peanuts for a belt. So HEY SEARS.. WAKE UP AND SMELL THE COFFEE for (&*(^(*& sake
Doug A I made a new bracket for the pulley attachment i raised the height of the hole by to almost below the frame this helped eliminate the angle that the pulley was at i can not believe it came from the factory so out of whack i filed off all the edges on the pulleys too nice a smooth now I hope all your guys advice pays off i will find out tommorow as its snownig like crazy right now
BOB Four winters ago I mounted a Sears 42" blower to my 44" Sears zero-turn lawn mower. Obviously, this mounting took some modification and fabrication of mounting brackets, etc. as the blower was not marketed for a zeroturn type mower. I went to my local Sears store which had a typical Sears lawn tractor with a blower attached to check my dimensions and everything checked out ok. Needless to say, I threw belts like everyone else on this thread. I did get a Dayco BP112 belt to almost make it a season but shredded it on the last heavy snow. (By the way I live in NW lower Michigan with a lot of lake effect snow.) After looking at Agri-Fab's transfer pulley assembly, I noticed that they had several bots mounted to act as belt "keepers". (At least that is my assumption). I added a 5/16" bolt to the big pulley that drives the long blower belt at approximately the 1 o'clock position looking up from underneath. I have not thrown a Sears/Agri-Fab/John Deere #47846 belt since. However, I have thrown the Dayco belt at least once. I recently bought a Sears belt for a back-up, and after measuring it, it's cross-sectional dimensions are somewhat different than the BP112 belt. If you can get the BP112 belt to work, great, however, I suspect that in general we are all scewed by Sears/Agrifab into using the 47846 belt. Notice that I listed a John Deere belt as I believe that this is who Agri-Fab sources the belt from. Finally, I too noticed that the pulley mount on the one side was angled. I took the bracket on a metal plate and with a two pund sledge flatened it out. I then resized the hole and remounted the pulley. I can't figure out why A-F did this but I am not sure that it ultimately has much to do with throwing belts.

By the way, I agree with Ray1274 that Sears/Agri-Fab owes a whole lot people free belts or some recompense for a crap design.It is obvious to me that the Agri-Fab engineers haven't gotten out in the field or in this case, onto the driveway. They must all be Purdue graduates...

Bill B I have had a 42 inch blower on my 18.5 hp tractor for several years and until this year never threw a belt. I have never had one break.

I have an engineering background and I have looked closely at what is oing on with the belts. I do not think the angled idler pully is the problem. When engaged the belt is pushed to the right (sitting on the tractor facing the auger) So the belt lines up with the angled pully. I do however think the problem is that when the belt is engaged and the auger lowered into its snow blowing position, the beltdoes not run parallel to the main drive pully but rather runs at an angle. Rick L.'s 3/8 rod solution seems to have the potential to correct the problem because the belt runs nearly parallel to the drive pully until it is on the auger side of the 3/8" rod. Since the belt rubs on the rod, I would expect that using a rod might increase belt wear. I am going to try Rick L's 3/8" rod solution. What I have seen happening when the belt is thrown is that the belt first jumps off the idler pully, thus no longer being under the tension it is supposed to be in when the auger is engaged,I have also thought about increasing the depth of the lip on the idler pully to keep it from jumping off the idler pully. From what I can see it seems to me that adding a circular plate to the bottom of the idler pully would keep the belt from jumping off the pully when the drive is engaged. Has anyone tried that?

I would like to know more about ray1234's solution. Ray if you get this message please let me know where yu got the 1:1 ratio right angle transfer gear box and how you mounted it. Finally it is clear to me that the belt throwing problem is very common with all of the versions of the snow thrower. The company needs to come up with a fix. Thanks for all the information available on this site. it is very helpful.

Kearney Boston 12/10 I just found this site and really appreciate what you guys have done here. I bought the 42" unit and tractor used this year and tried it for the first time today throwing belts within 10 minutes of use. I am going to try the 3/8 rod trick but will add a sleeve over threadstock to allow it to roll with the belt. However, does it matter if there is wobble in the tensioner pully near the rear drive? Also, there aren't any 'keeper bolts' around the rear auger drive pully - should there be? Anyway, I have enough to chew on with what is on the site already. Now I know why Sears tractors and 42" blowers are so cheap on Craigslist.
Kearney Boston
Re: chewing up belts on snowthrower on sears tractore

12/10: I took a different approach than Rick L. since I didn't have the same mounts but same idea. Replace the two lower blower hing bolts with 5/8' threadstock. I cut 1/2' conduit into two pieces that would fit across the threadstock as a sleeve. I reused the nuts with 'spin stop' plastic on the outside and used two nutes on the inside. Then run the drive belt over it and it is almost dead level with the rear drive pully. The conduit sleeve spins so the belt doesn't wear as quickly. I just blew some heavy stuff as a test and no problem. I included a couple pics. Total cost $13. I hope Agri-fab looks at this site for a design change. Thanks guys!

Kearney Boston
Re: chewing up belts on snowthrower on sears tractore

Here is the second picture of the fix. I agree that the right guide pully on the blower isn't the problem despite its curious angle. I think Bill is correct in that the issue is that the belt is not level from the auger to the rear drive pulley when the auger is down. This approach gets it pretty close and preserves the belt in the process.

Van Boston I consider myself lucky reading this thread. I got my 40" (model No. 486.24839) back in 2000 and never had any problem with the belt until this year. Last snow storm, the belt pop when I tried for a heavy load. That gave me a chance to inspect the belt and I decided to order another one from sear for backup. Hope you all find a fix for your problem.
Bill Butterfield This is a follow up of my earlier post. I tried a modification of Rick L's solution and it worked well. I was able to blow a moderatly wet five inch snow off my 150 foot driveway with out the belt comming off and with no signs of additional wear on the belt. My modification is very similar to the one Kearney Boston just described. I used a treaded rod inserted through 1/2" polished tube. Unlike Kearney , I did not split the tube in the middle so it does not rotate with the belt. I think his solution is a better one than mine. And, if I find my solution leads to excessive bealt wear, I will split the tube and see if that helps.


Doug A belt is working great no problems at all the angle is perfect i inspect the belt every time i use it no marks at all (minus the usual wear)works awesome on the plow crud at he end of the driveway ive used it half a dozen times now and heavy snow too i made a track out back though 3 layers of old snow its still going!
Rick Ash Hi All!
Same issue here; purchased a new sears lawn tractor (26 hp) and new snowblower attachment just over a year ago. (2nd snow season).

going through belts like crazy. Live in a rural area so getting belts is not easy.

Any ideas how we can get Sears to take responsibility on their poor design and make a correction so we can acutally use the product for it's intended purpose? I love the machine when it works, just would like to stay sitting in the seat longer than 30 minutes...

Ron Kasper Dayco BP111 belt is still running strong. For $18.00 it was a great buy. Make sure your belt routing is correct. This is the second season on this belt. Now the guide where the cables attach used to adjust the snow shoot broke. Ordered a new one from Agri-Fab. Will not buy anything from Sears.
Dave I sure wish I had read these web postings before spending $3,600.00 for a 2009 YTS-4500 tractor and a 486.248381 snow thrower. First season we only had three light storms and I had no problems. Now in my second snow season, I broke the belt during the first heavy storm. Not stocking 486.47846 belts in the local Sears store, I traveled over 100 miles this morning to a Sears Parts Center to spend $63.99 for the 486.47846 belt, which appears to be a bit longer than the original belt.

Like everyone else, my belt kept slipping off the guide pulley adjacent to the flat tension pulley. So I stacked 30-ish 3/8” washers on a 5/16” x 3” hex bolt with 2 nuts to create a keeper bolt for the factory provided hole next to the troubling pulley. This appears to have fixed the problem of the belt falling off. Next I will try Rick & Kearney’s rod/conduit modification to level the belt, which I hope will also take a little slack out of the belt.

Once the belt issues are addressed, I feel this will be an adequate LIGHT duty snow thrower for about 3” to 5” of fluffy snow. Has anyone figured out how to get this snow thrower to perform better in heavier snow, meaning 10” to 12” of snow or 2” of icy/greasy snow?

Today was my first time using the snow thrower in 12” of snow and the second stage kept jamming up, even though I was inching along and only cutting 10” width of snow with each pass. Buzz mentioned ice building up behind the second stage impeller, which I’ll look for next time. Based on the very POOR performance I experienced today, I think the diameter of the second stage exit opening is too small and contributes to the clogging.

So after a VERY frustrating afternoon of snow thrower wresting, I called Sears and spoke with 3 levels of customer support, with the last level being just below CEO Bruce Johnson. Well everyone was very polite and thanked me for choosing Sears but in “so many words” they also shared their new company policy – where “satisfaction guarantee” has been replaced with “buyer beware.” If I had money to burn, I think I would mail Bruce Johnson my tractor and snow thrower – one piece at a time. Then maybe Sears would take a good long look at this inferior design.

don pelissier I HAVE A CRAFTSMEN 40 IN SNOW THROWER ATTACHMENT MODEL NO 486,248400 THAT LIKES TO EAT BELTS I AM GIVING UP WILL SELL ATTACHMENT REAL CHEAP.
DOUG M Mine also is eating belts. I emailed agri-fab and below is their answer.



There is no design flaw. If the belt keeps breaking or slipping off, you need to:



Check the routing of the belts.. Also, make sure you have the proper tension on the belt. (see “setting the auger belt tension” on page 24)



Check to make sure the pulleys are not out of alignment with the belt. There may be belt dust at the base of this pulley. You may need to straighten and re-align the pulley to correct the problem.



Also, check the condition of the idler bracket assembly, reference #9 on page 38, and all of the parts around this part. If a part is broken, damaged or missing, then you will need to replace these parts.



Make sure you purchase the belt designed specific for the snow thrower. If you purchase a belt from an outside source, it will not work on the Agri-Fab snow throwers. Ours are designed specific to our snow product.

Rubberband I have a 22hp Husky with the 42"@!#!@!. I have learned much about belt driven systems lately. The original equipment belt has a 5V cross section as opposed to the more common B cross section. The 5V is designed to be stronger and more flexible = more expensive. You may have noticed the sharp right andle down to the small pully on either side of the auger pully, this is a very stressful configuration for any belt system. I have been through many B section belts, the unwrapped ones pop right off. the best has been the John Deere aramid coated, but the before mentioned right angle to the small pully is very stressful for a coated belt. I need to run at half throttle and the belt will survive. The B section belts cant make that transition at high speed without building up heat. I have installed the angled washer. I am going to go for the transverse rod to align the belt properly. Dogpile search found many manufacturers sell 5V section belts, common sizes though are 113" and 118" for off the shelf. Belts designed to the 5V standard are about/over 2× stronger than an inductrial B section belt. I have not tried one of the non Sears 5v belt yet but they look real good...............................................................................................................................................its snowing again.
Rubberband "5V Wedge" is the belt type you want...........................................................snow.
Rick L from MN - ONE YEAR LATER Hey all. I wam the original poster of the 5/8" rod to level the belt alignment. Great to see the ideas for improvement - I plan to implement Kearney's conduit onto mine. It has been almost a year since I posted my pics and comments. We have had some very significant snowfall this year. A couple several inchers and one 12+" and another I think was 16+" with drifts well over 36". I clear mine and several neighbor's drives regularly. I am on the same belt! Shows normal wear is all. I have not touched my spare. Very happy - no thanks to the Sears or Agri-fab jokers.
Rick L - typos I wam? How did I miss that?... whatever, I wam what I wam. GL
DOUG M tHANKS TO rICK L. AND ALL THE OTHERS WHO POSTED A "FIX". tHIS MORNING i JUST FINISHED ME MODIFICATION TO MY sEARS PROFESSIOAL 26 HP TRACTOR WITH THEIR SNOW BLOWER ATCHMENT, ER aGRI-FABS. i RAN A 10 INCH PIECE OF ANGLE WITH HOLES DOOWN EACH SIDE MOUNTING PLATE ANE TROUGH THE SECOND FROM BOTTOM HOLE RAN A 3/8 TREADED ROD ACROSS WITH A NUT THEN WASHER THEN 6 INCH PIECE OF STAINLESS TUBING OVER THE THREADED ROD, THEN ANOTHER WASHER AND ANOTHER PIECE OF STAINLESS TUBING, THEN WASHER AND NUT. tHIS IS ALL IN BETWEEN THE TWO DOWN PIECES ADDED AS ABOVE. tHEN PUT ON EACH END OUTSIDE THE DOWN PIECE A SELF LOCKING NUT. wORKS! i HAD FIRST TRIED A 1/2 INCH PVC PIPE OVER THE DTHREADED ROD. dIDN'T WORK. MELTED! I guess I has it to tight end to end and it didn't rotate withe the belt. The stainless tubing is good.
Thanks again for the advise. No thanks to Sears or Agri fab. They will NOT admit there is a design problem. And such a simple fix at that. Wow! Happy snow blowing all!

Keeley I did both of the recommended fixes to my Craftsman YS4500 tractor w/ 24838 snow thrower attachment. I shimmed the front "turning" pulley on the right side (when looking forward from the seat) and made the 5/8" belt alignment rod with conduit. I'm running a B112 belt, which I think might be a little too long for my application. I haven't blown any snow yet, but the belt run seems to be much straighter, and I hope that the belt stays on now. It really makes a racket when the two pieces of conduit rub together while turning opposite, though!

Unfortunately, the belt is now turning onto its side in the auger pulley. It wasn't doing that before. I'm thinking that the groove in the auger pulley may have become too wide. Can't come up with any other reasons why the belt would flip over now. Anyone having the same problem or have any suggestions?

Keeley Removed the 5/8" rod roller thing. Too much turn... Left the shim in on the right idler pulley and added one to the left idler pulley to try to minimize the twist. Now the belt is jumping off the auger pulley and getting stuck between it and the snowblower body. Help!

I hate this thing! I should have bought a plow instead!

Rubberband Traction Problems.......... I have 2 steep sections of driveway. The final solution for me is 1)chains 2)wheel weights 3) water in the dirt in the counteweight bucket that came with the snowblower 4) 5 gallons of -35º windshield washer fluid in each rear tire. I can back up any grade now after the major snow is cleared. Hope I dont get a tire blowout. If you try, the tractor will wheelee going up steep grades.
Ron Kasper I also had traction issues on my asphalt driveway. Sears sold me wheel weights, but my Monster tractor is not monster enough to allow there use. Took them back as they are not made for this model. Sears apparently does not know anything about the products they sell. Made a concrete block with a rod going through for handles. This goes on the rear weight platform in place of the plastic sand container. The block is about 170 pounds and with the chains and my 175 pounds the traction is acceptable. Never had these kind of issues with my old 70's Simplicity.
Ron Kasper Update the first Dayco belt started popping off and then finally broke. It seems once it stretched to far it would no longer stay on. Lasted a season and a half. Not bad for $18.00. I put the spare Dayco on for the 12 inches of snow we got Wednesday and had no issues. I will try my own design for some idler pulleys that will keep the alignment correct when the blower is lowered. This should solve the problem. Will try some of the Agri Supply (not to get confused with Agri Fab) belts that Joe stated they worked well for him. Price went up a buck since Joe's post to $11.49 each, still a bargain if they last one season.
Agri Supply
Item: 21036 - B112 BELT
114.8" X 21/32" X 13/32" - $10.49

Bones ok so i went even further.my buddy at work got some aluminum pipe 1.25 inchs and made 2 4.75 inch long rollers with 4 high speed bearings.purchased the 1/2 inch steel rod as above posted and slipped the 2 rollers on.it works perfect.no issues with belt this season
Bones
Re: chewing up belts on snowthrower on sears tractore

here are pics

Bones
Re: chewing up belts on snowthrower on sears tractore

pic 2

Bones i forgot to add that years back i had a machine that also used to throw the belt off on a different attachment but same princible,i was told that because the pulleys were rusty from non use that it was holding (grabbing) onto the belt and throwing it off.i was sceptical but i cleaned,sanded,and painted the faces of the pulleys.they worked fine after that.since then i have always kept my pulleys clean.i am not sure if this is the problem with these blowers from non use all year round.but it does make sense..just my 2 cents on this problem,i hope it helps...........
Rubberband The 5VX is the correct profile belt for the narrow sheaves on most of these snowblowers. My bad, 5V is a coated belt not as flexible. The 5VX belts are ~ 50% stronger and are more flexible than the B section belts. I am still using a John Deere equivalent to the agrifab belt (add Q something something to the 4XXXX agrifab number), it is a B section with a kevlar coating. The coating has almost completely fallen off during use this winter in northern Vermont. I still use a lower throttle setting when blowing, I need to go full throttle when moving around to keep the battery charged. 5VX belts come in standard 112" and 115" not 114 1/4". I will eventually try the 115" with the alignment correcting pipe thingy being talked about lately. The alignment shoud take up the extra 3/4". I have spare Deere Belts to use up.
Phase3 Madison Tractor has a
B111K - Kevlar Blue V-Belt (5/8" X 114" )
for under $30 + shipping. Says it replaces Sears 47846. Go to
http://www.madisontractor.com/b111k-kevlar-blue-v-belt-5-8-x-4319.html
I've had my original belt for 8 years and no problems. Now it's starting to split, so will try the B111K.

Phase3 Another source is V-Belt Global Supply. They have the B111K Kelvar belt replacement for Sears 47846 for $23.63 + shipping. Go to
http://www.vbeltsupply.com/ecommerce/kevlar-corded/5lk/5lk1140.html

Bones yep just bought one from v-belt supply.price is great.it looks good.test will be soon.........
Claudio Had this snoblower for about 6 yrs now, not a major problem, however I jumped a few auger belts, found out my gearbox wobbled terribly, took it out and had it repaired, it was missing a bearing altogether!
Went fine for two years, wore out the auger belt, and bought a new one at my Industrial Supply store, I think $38ish, it worked great, now it's jumping off, found a chamfer on the chamfer, so it worked like an incline plane.
I'm happy with the belt, PIX-1/2"X113"/A111K/4L1130K, and it is blue, I hope this may help someone out there.

Floyd I bought a DYT4000 tractor and the 42 inch blower in 2003 and that thing has blown an incredible amount of Minnesota snow in the past years. I blow out my driveway, my shop sidewalk and the parking lot behind my shop as well as our local church and have consistently blown snow as deep as the auger housing is high and have never had problems with belts. In that whole time I believe I may have gone through 3 belts total.The only issue was last year when blowing out an elderly neighbors driveway when I got a metal rod in the auger and shear pins didn't do their job and I stripped the gears in the auger housing. I ordered a new gear box but never used the blower after that.

This summer the engine on the tractor blew so I bought a new model tractor and installed the blower on it.I had to get new mounting brackets but everything else transferred over easily.Ten minutes into the initial snow clearing I threw the brand new belt and then after reinstalling it I blew the belt 2 minutes later. I then bought a NAPA belt and that lasted 3 minutes and broke so I took the auger housing apart and found a pin was out in there so I replaced it and then it seemed to run just fine. Before that there was a great deal of play and I think it was binding and breaking the belts. Now we have to get some snow to see if what I found fixed the problems.

chuck my first three years i never lost an auger belt. this year ive broke 2. i like the roller bearing idea for allignment but im not a machinist. i wonder if i could buy 2 small diameter back idler pulleys and bolt them up or maybe a threaded rod with a couple bearings back to back with a washer and locknut on each end and let the back of the belt just ride on the bearings.
Bones well we only got about 8 inchs in the past storm.but the rollers are working perfect,i run the engine at full throttle and it never missed a beat.the belt ran steady never slipped or wobbled.
Daein One of these came with the house I bought a few years back. It breaks every year like clockwork. It's blown the gearbox on the auger twice, which is a pricey fix. The first time it blew it was the first time I took it out. The second time was an early snow storm last year. The ground wasn't frozen and it sucked up some big rocks and the bolts didn't shear. Also destroyed one of the augers at the same time. This doesn't even include the extensive repairs it needed before I was able to get it working the first time.

The thing broke this year as well. I took it out and the lift cable broke in the first 10 minutes. Luckily right at the top I was able to trim the cable and put a new end on it with solder. After that fix I got about 15 feet before it chewed up the belt and spit it out. What I found was the idler pulley was tensioned in the wrong direction! It's not an obvious problem because it appears to be on correctly, but the spring was actually going the wrong way. The symptoms were the same as a lot of you guys had. No problem with the belt for years then it won't stay on and gets cut up. When I saw the price of the belts I decided to take a real close look and figure out exactly why the belt came off to begin with before dropping a big wad of dough on a little strip of rubber. I was lucky that I noticed the spring was wrong, which was actually hard to spot since it looked correct!

Mikep I have the same issue with the belts getting chewed up. What I see on mine is whe the belt goes through the first pully on the blower then twists to the main auger pully it flips so the back of the belt is running in the pully. This makes it wear faster. The Belt is tight but it keeps fliping??? Enyone else has this problem?
Daein
Re: chewing up belts on snowthrower on sears tractore

MikeP: Could you be tightening the wrong way? that was my problem? I've included a pic of the correct way and a quick pic of the wrong way I did it.

Daein
Re: chewing up belts on snowthrower on sears tractore

Ok lets try that again

Denny What blower drive belt does this unit require ?
John You need a 5V wedge profile belt for this blower. B belts have the wrong profile for the pulleys and will rotate. I am using a 5VX 115" belt. They cost ~$20.00 from several manufacturers just search for 5VX. The wedge belt is about 50% stronger than the industrial B belt and is more flexible. Flexible is needed for the right angle with a twist the belt does on both sides of the auger pulley. Wedge belts/systems are designed for high shock loads. The 14.25" $70 Sears belt is a wedge belt. The extra 0.75" has not made a difference. My blower has been sucking up and spitting out plow packed snow taller than the blower for 5 years in northern Vermont. Good Luck
Mikep I have a little different scenario; I bought a cub cadet w with a snow blower. Come to find out the blower is a Sears blower but it does fit on the tractor with a little rigging. But the belt is shorter. I used the blower about 10 time this year and went through 4 indusial belts. After reading the post I guess they don’t have the twist. I found a narrower belt in lawn and garden at Home Depot. I used that belt about 5 times with no visible wear to the belt. I also put an idler wheel on the power side f the belt under the tractor to keep the belt from shaking off. My belt seems to shake a lot.

Thanks for the posts.


Travis F I have a brand new Y3000 Craftsmas tractor. With the 42" blower. Bought the tractor in Nov. 2012.

I have the same issue with the belt.

I saw it had jumped the tension pulley. It was in good shape. Put it back on.

Wife went out to blow out drive. 20 minutes later the belt was shredded. We have used it maybe 5 or 6 times this year. WTF.

Bought a belt from http://www.vbeltsupply.com/
Trying the 5V belt at 114 inches that is kevlar belted.

I am not happy with this. not sure what my chances of them unscrewing this with so many issues for so many years....

chris noticed the plate with the two pullies by the auger is wabbling. I am going to weld it tight. I am going to try the 5vx115 belt and the new guide.
Eric February 2013: I buy these 47846 belts here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110765528025&biolp=1&quantity=2. At less than $30 with free shipping, it is a far better option than Sears. And,it is the proper belts fo rthe attachement. The last one I had lasted a year, including "Hurricane Nemo's" 27 inches of snow. I cleared my driveway of that snow, including the snowplow berms at the end of the driveway, but I broke the belt trying to clear my neighbor's driveway (but well after I had cleared his snowplow berms, so I got the worst of it.)

So far, I have broke 2 belts with this unit in just over a year, the first because I caught a tarp in the auger and the shear pins didn’t shear. But, there is plenty of room for improvement. I am going to try the conduit on a threaded rod solution. I'll let you know how I make out.

chris I took the lower guide pulley bracket off the auger. I noticed the dinky 3/8 bolts had broke and dented the auger from belt tension and pulling the bracket. I had it welded back into position after i flatened the metal again. i tested it, even with out the emt it worked great in both positions. If I have problems in the future I can always try the emt trick or put bearings in.
Russ I am experiencing the same problem as MikeV. The belt flips to the back side on the right hand pully. I bought 3 B111k belts, used the first one and it worked great for about an hour and a half. But when I checked the belt it was frayed and there was noticeable wear on the back side due to the flipping. I had shimmed the pully to push the pully in to prevent it from jumping, but that ended in a bent bolt from too much tension. I removed the shim and ran it for a few minutes and ended up with a very chewed, flipped belt AND a very damaged, sheared right hand pully. I have ordered a replacement pully. I have a belt from mow town that has the 47846 number stamped on it. I think I may order the sears belt. Any other thoughts on the flipping? I checked the tensioner to be sure it was not flipped.


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