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Sears Craftsman 8 HP snowblower no spark & no fuel
|Sidney||I know this isn't a snowblower repair forum but this engine is also used in lawn tractors, so I apologize if I still not meant to post this here.
I recently acquired from Kijiji a dual stage (9" impeller) Sears Crafstman 8 HP snowblower Canadian model: C950-52677-7 (USA model:71-52677-7), year: 1988, sears engine model:143.786022, Tecumseh engine model: HM80-155309M which is a horizontal medium frame 4 cycle engine.
The prior owner stated it worked good until the first snowfall last week where he put fresh gas andshe wouldn't start. When I took it home I realizes the wire coming from the ignition switch was floating so I grounded it as that's how the old owner had it since he lost the ignition key. I purchased a new igntion key (snow king series Tecumseh # 35062) and she still would run either with pull cord or ac plug (electric start).
I removed the carb bowl and needle and it seems it was cleaned several years ago, I re-installed the carb needle assmembly (main mix idle screw assembly) and still no start. I removed spark plug and placed it near the spark plug hole and on case as well and still no spark.
I also tried another spark plug and same thing, the spark plug seemed dry so I dipped it in gas as well placed a tiny amount in the hole but still not start.
I read some info specially the troubleshooting flow charts at these Tecumseh maintenance manuals:
but didn't get a chance to follow the steps as the snowblower is at my relatives house and it's cold in their garage. So if I can get common failure repair tips I can quickly pin point the problem in this cold weather.
This machine was well maintained as lubed, greased and oil changed regularly.
Thanks for taking the time to read this long post and for help/replies in advance.
Repairs TV's,VCR's,home/car audio out of my apartment
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
|davey||the "floating" wire must not be grounded in order to have spark. on those engines, the wire is grounded when you shut off the engine via the key or stop switch thus grounding the magneto. remove the wire from ground and check for spark again. if still no spark, remove the blower housing and look at the ign coil. you will see where the other end of that wire hooks to the ign coil via push terminal. remove this wire from the coil and check for spark again. if still no spark, then the stator/coil assembly needs to be replaced these are electronic ignition modules and when they quit you cant fix them you have to replace the whole thing. if you do have spark after removing the wire from coil, then check along the wires run for broken or cut insulation allowing wire to ground to engine somewhere. its easy fix... one way to check if you have spark is to put the spark plug back in and, put wire on spark plug then shoot some gas or starting fluid into carb. if engine starts even for brief period, then you have spark. if it dosent, then you dont....good luck.
|Sidney||Thanks Davey for the quick and detailed reply, I will follow the directions you have given me, I am just puzzled as to why there is no fuel in the spark plug. I will test to see if the main carb needle is 1.5 turns as per Tecumseh settings and not too tight. Thanks again.
|jed1950||check for a bad coil/armature ground,sometimes the screws or the coil make a poor ground so you may need to clean contact points on coil and engine block to get proper spark
|Sidney||Jed1950 this engine uses a solid state ignition module.
|Sidney||Davey once I head over to my relatives and if I discover that it is the electronic ignition module, does this one need to be gap adjusted? as I don't know if mine is the one on bottom of page 74 or top of 75:
Thanks again Davey.
|Sidney||My local Sears Parts & Service depot says that the main mixture carb needle O-Ring Tecumseh part # 630740 with specs of ID=5/32" and OD=9/32" is no longer available.
Supposedly this O-ring is commonly used in many different branded carb equipped products. So does anyone have any other brand name and part #'s for this O-ring? so that I can order it from my local Sears Parts & Service.
The O-ring in this snoblower is in bad shape but has no relation to my problem but would like to replace it before it leaks gasoline on the engine. Thanks in advance.
|Joe||Try local mower shop or auto parts store,they usually have O ring assortments,goto site below,they list for $1.26 + shipping or goto harbor freight & buy an O ring assortment kit.
|davey||yes if you replace the module you will have to gap it from flywheel magnets i think the gap is .005 to .010 but i even gapped them less than that as long as the magnets on flywheel do not rub against the stator legs. i usually mount the module and snug the mounting bolts with the gap hi then turn flywheel till magnets are under stator then i place matchbook lenghwise across magnet tehn loosen both bolts holding module let mag suck it down to matchbook then tighten module bolts and hook up the kill wire. thats all. hope you get it running again.
|JEAN-MARC TURGEON||hello eveybody
I do have the same snowblower as Sidney, and on mine gaz is not going to the spark plug; Carburator just rebuilt with new gaskets and seals, ans gaz do arrive fine to it; spark appears fine at the plug when remove to check ;any ideas why gaz not going to the cylinder ? THANKS for your help to all
Montreal QC (Beaconsfield)
|bruce||Its in the carb 1 or more holes are obstructed gaz will not flow ....
|Jake Small||Need to check all carburetor jets after cleaning to make sure they are see thru. carb cleaner sometimes get stuck in there. Need compressed air to blow it out.
I have had cases where i had to reclean carburetors due to not doing a good job the first time. If there is a fuel pump involved, unhook the hose to the carb and check to see if fuel is flowing into a cup, while pulling the recoil start rope.
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