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Kawasaki FB460V

Chuck K I am also working on a JD165 for someone that has a very tired and noisy engine. He has bought a B&S Intek to repower the tractor. There are the typical problems (exhaust,sheet meatl,etc.)but it shouldn't be to bad. The worst problem for me is the charging system. The Kaw has two wires coming out that go to the regulator. The B&S system I am looking at also has this. In looking at respective repair manuals, the test procedures and results are the same. My question is can I run the B&S wires to the regulator with out any problems?
Joe This is somewhat of a trick question,I'm not familiar with the kaw alt/reg setup,however on briggs intek eng they used several different amp output alt stators in either the dual/tri alt config,the more commonly used was a 5A dual alt,it has 2 leads from eng,but used a split patch cord between eng & tractor wiring harness & have an inline diode in each wire or only 1 lead,patch cord connection is usually 1 lead is used to power headlites,either useing ac/dc(lights don't know the difference)other lead has a diode to charge battery,the problem here is with dual alt,although you can read same/near same ac voltage on leads as kaw eng,it's a fooler,on dual alt,midpoint of alt windings(point where 1 end of each winding connects together)is connected to alt stator frame/eng block,then other end of each winding brought out off eng & doide(s) installed in patch cord,with only 1 diode you're only charging 1/2 wave dc on battery,even if you direct connect leads from alt to reg,it probably won't work,as ac output on alt windings is on same 1/2 of ac sine wave(not opposite each other,a solid state vom can be fooled by this)been down this road when I changed a tecumseh hh100 to a hm100(dual alt)no matter how I tried changing connections I couldn't get reg to work with alt,on larger amp alt stators(briggs,kohler,tecumseh)these use a single winding & connect either to a rect/reg mounted on eng or remote mounted,connect an ohmmeter to 1 lead of alt output & connect other lead to eng block/battery neg,if you get a reading alt midpoint grounded & probably won't work with existing reg,try taking a shot connecting alt output to reg & see if battey charges,worst case is it won't & you'll have to get patch lead & install between eng/tractor wiring harness,you'll probably also have to add a current limit/droppping resistor between doide lead & battery as 5A system is unregulated & needs a way(resistor) to limit charge current to battery,check briggs manual,there is a note on this in charging systems section,most/all tractor mfg that used this type unregulated system added a resistor in wiring harness to limit charge current to 1 1/2A-2 1/2A,if tractor had an elect pto,an extra set of contacts on pto sw bypassed resistor when pto turned,allowing full 5A into elect system to power clutch/charge battery.
Joe As a followup,you may have to do some heavy research between parts list for eng & service manual for same,in my briggs manual(interactive cd)depending if eng a 1 cyl or twin intek,in the elect section for alt,it has a chart to id alt stators as to amp output,colors of wires,eng mod#(you won't have to pull flywheelcover/flywheel to id)if you have paper version on service manual it may be in there also,hopefully owner gave you any paper work that came with eng(if new),this might help with alt id.
Chuck K The new Intek has a 9amp system. I have a 10-16amp stator to replace it with. The 10-16amp stator has two black leads with a yellow connector. According to both repair manuals (Briggs & Kaw) you put both test leads on the output terminals inside the connector to test output of the stator. Both systems should have a minimum of 30 volts output. That is why I am hoping to just run the two leads to the original regulator on the tractor. I removed the Kawasaki last night and cleaned up the tractor. I sat the Briggs in place to see how it fit. I have to move the engine forward. It hits the steering mechanism at the bottom of the sump pan, whitch means differant belts and modifying the clutch anchor, and the oil filter sits on the frame.Does Briggs make a remote oil filter for this engine? IT is an Intek single,31P677.
Joe From what you say & what I see in my manual,the 10/16A stator will probably work,give it a shot,if it doesn't worst case would be,you'll have install a briggs rect/reg in place of orig,as far as a remote filter,check out jcwhitney & autozone on line or try a local speed shop for a remote kit,whitney lists remote kits,they aren't cheap(start at $58)local speed shop might be a better bet,if they have kits you can check if adapters in kit will match filter pipe dia/thread pitch & also if return line can/will fit existing filter adapter on eng or try giving briggs a call & see if they have a kit avail as a special item,I'm sure this problem has come up before & they might have a mod kit,all the online(3)parts drawings for eng I checked don't list a remote filter kit,from what you describe as to problems installing eng I don't envy you,sound's like this job a labor of love,rather than for profit
Joe Forgot to include in other reply,if you have kaw repair manual,check amp output rating of alt stator & if possible amp rating of rect/reg,reg may/may not have a high enough current rating for briggs 10/16A stator.
bontai Joe How bad does the filter hit the frame? Would spacing the engine up a fraction of an inch allow it to clear, instead of getting a remote filter?
Bill Samp I thru a rod in mine also on a John Deere LX176 for no good reason. Replaced it with a Honda, 13HP, had to add spacers under the mounting bolts and one mounting hole did not line up. I used the J.D. voltage regulator and simply made adapter plug to connect the Honda wires to the J.D. All works well, except the exhaust on the Honda needs to have an extension added so the plastic hood does not get burnt. It runs fine, all belts lined up, pulls better that the Kawasaki and was only $499 to replace Vs a short block from J.D. for $2,360 ot a B&S for $650 + $50 shipping.


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