|Allis Chalmers||Avery||Bobcat||Case David Brown||Caterpillar||Cockshutt||Deutz||Euclid||Ford||International Farmall|
|John Deere||Kubota||Massey Ferguson||Minneapolis Moline||Mitsubishi Satoh||New Holland||Oliver||White||Zetor||Miscellaneous (OTHER)|
|| SSB Farm Tractor Parts, Manuals & Antique Tractors||| Aftermarket Farm Tractor Parts||| Service & Repair Farm Tractor Manuals ||
|| Tractor Implements||| Tractor Seats||| Trailer Parts||| Tractor Loaders||| PTO Generators||| Rear View Backup Camera ||
|| Pedal Toy Tractors||| Tractor Books||| Tractor Data / Info / Specs||| Tractor Blog||| Antique Tractors History||| Related Sites||| Rustic Home ||
|How much is your farm tractor worth? Find resale prices for tractors built from 1939 and 2011, with complete specifications and serial numbers. Save 15% on our Official Tractor Blue Book sale!|
|Vic V||This is a continuation of B2400 electrical starting problem. Hot wired the solenid and the tractor started, so it means problem is in wire to ignition switch or switch. How do I disassemble tractor (plastic housing) to get to switch and once accesable how is switch removed from plastic housing? I am stuck at removing roll pin that holds throttle lever in place. (Looks like it has to be removed inorder to remove housing that switch is mounted on) Tried to punch it out, but it is very tight and whole assembly just deflects. Is there anyway I can push it out?
|Jack||I had this exact tractor with exact problem
I'd bet money your solenoid sp ? is bad.
by hot wiring the solinoid ? you are actually
by passing it proving that that is the problem
the ign switch is creating a click at solinoid
proving it is sending the fire to it.
If you want to do ign switch there is a 10mm
|Vic V||When I said I hot wired the solenoid, I ment that I unhooked the wire that went from the ignition key to the spade connector on the solenoid. I then jumped a wire from the positive battery terminal and touched this connector and immediately the starter engaged. To me this indicates the problem is not in the solenoid. Jack brings up a good point that when the ignition key is turned, the power is delivered to the solenoid (since it clicks)therefore the ignition switch is working. It seems that I now have two conflicting pieces of information. Any help is solving this would be appreciated. Thanks
|Larry Wiebe||I think your diagnosis is incorrect. The ignition switch may or may not be the total problem. What you have is a voltage drop between the key switch and the solenoid energizing post, i.e. low voltage will not allow the starter to turn a small amount to line up the starter gear teeth to align with ring gear teeth. The teeth are hitting each other and not sliding past. They are not lining up to slide into gear. The solenoid is grounded out through the hot wire of the starter until the solenoid makes contact internally. Then it becomes "hot" but it also moves the starter a very small amount to line up the teeth so that they can slide past each other and let the solenoid make full contact. The problem is the voltage drop. It is probably either in the key switch or a safety switch. If you know how to use a volt meter you should be able to trace the voltage drop and find the problem. We have seen this problem at the shop where I work several times before. If this doesn't help contact me at the above e-mail address and there are some other things that can be done.