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Donnie Can anyone please tell me what the valves are set on , for a v1902 kabota engine? And is there any kind of special thing like top dead center that has to be set berore I start? Thanks For Any Help!
Sam Don't know the settings, however yes it's best
to have each cyl on top dead center with both
valves closed before adjusting each set of valves. Have to hand turn the engine to line up
#1 cyl on top dead center, after your finished
Adjusting valves on #1 then hand turn to #2 ETC.

Gus It is absolutly necessary to have each cylinder on tdc when setting the valves, this ensures the cam is on it's 'base lobe' and will prevent the valves from hitting the pistons upon start up- provided the lash is set correctly. Then follow the firing order. When the lash is correct, a slight drag will be felt on the feeler gauge- don't want to really tug on it to get it out nor do you want it to just fall right out.
Most engines like it best when the valves are adjusted with the engine cold...Except an old Mack engine, doesn't really matter with those.
Valve lash info is ussually right on the valve cover.

jm. Gus I guess KUBOTA just dosen,t know how to do it. In the shop manual they show getting # 1 on tdc adjusting both on # 1 along with intake on 2 and exaust on 3 then turn the engine 1 turn and get both of # 4 and finish up 2 & 3. F or certain your method wil work but it must not be critical because I checked several 4 cyl shop manuals and they uses the same method on all.
Good Luck JM

Gus That's they way Cat engines do it also, suprises me that Kubota does it that way also. Guess base lobe is base lobe.
I'm pretty sure Kubota has this engine thing figured out, haven't had any problems with mine in many a year.
Even though the shop manual calls to do it like you described, could it still be done with each cylinder on tdc? Sure hope so- that's the way I've set mine...
Sorry for the mis-information on my part guys (and gals- if any are on here).

jm.. Gus ;; YES your method is fool proof just takes more turning and time but nothing wrong with the way you are doing it...One of the biggest things we see is people just never seem to do that mantaince..and eventually performance will be demished...
Donnie First THANKS to every one who helped me out with the valve issues! Now can anyone tell me if the injector pump itself has a bleeder vavue on it? I have bled the injector lines themselves to get out the air, but the pump still dosent want to put much fuel into the injectors.The machine will hit on a mix of gas and deisel ,but it just wont pick up the fuel from the tank and run. And yes it has plenty of fuel in the machine, and has run just fine before putting on this NEW head. The old had been cracked by the previuos owner. But i did hear the machine run berore and after i bought it. So what do you guys think ? I thank you for any advise!
jm. Donnie: The guy you want to answer is the guy caled thepumpguy but I am thinking your kill or rack may be stuck either in the off or almost off position. .. without knowing what engine varaint you have could have electric fuel shut off or manual but if you bled it to the injectors you have about all the bleeding done.
Re: valves

Valve Manufacturer:
Fully Welded Ball Valve,Gate Valve , Check Valve, Plug Valve , Globe Valve, Gearbox
WCB,Cast Iron,Cast Steel,316SS,304SS LC1


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