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Kubota Tractor runs and then sputters, quits and starts right up again
|don nelson||I solved my tractor stalling problem and wanted to pass on the solution to every one. My B7510 would run just fine and then sputter, and die. I could start it right up again until it died again.(This would happen idling or driving - under load or not)
I tried at least 10 solutions people gave me and then I noticed the fuel level in the fuel-filter bowl would slowly go down until it got near the bottom of the filter, then the tractor would die. It was obvious the engine was being fuel starved.
I did the obvious solution. I reverse-flushed out the diesel tank with hot water but possible debris in the tank was not the problem.
Then I pulled off the rubber fuel return line going into the top of the fuel filter.
I put my finger on the inlet hole, and the tractor idled fine and never died again.
Then I followed this return line up to a male hose connection on the firewall (on the right side of the tractor). Next to this connector was another connector with a rubber line coming out going back to the engine block. I pulled this 2nd line off and ran the tractor. Plenty of Diesel fuel was spurting out and so I connected it up to the firewall again. Did the same test. No diesel or very little was coming out from the 1st tube. So I bypassed the firewall connectors and using a plastic barbed nipple, I connected these two hoses together and Bingo. The tractor runs perfectly with no more problems, just like new.(I have 500 hours on it)
Someone online suggested that maybe this input/output thingy on the firewall is some kind of secondary filter but there is no way to get to it and clean it, replace it, etc. If anyone knows what this firewall thingy is, please let me know.
I am just curious. I guess if I wanted to, I could install my own "in-line" fuel return line filter but it seems like it's not really necessary.
I hope this helps someone, someday, get their tractor run'in good again.
|jm.||Don both lines you speak of the one from top of filter and the one from end of injector top are returns. They go to two barbs in the TOP of the tank. I can,t really understand to what you said you did but if it works good luck. If you connected the two as you say you will have I guess the injector return will force the return back in to the top of the filter. The original reason this line left from the top of the filter was so when dummies ran out of fuel the tractor would be self bleeding. What your real problem is the small little barb coming out of the tank on top under that orange metal has closed up on has something in it. Glad you fixed it Jerry
|Robert||Don't mean to hijack this subject but I have a question. While pushing cedar trees down, hitting them pretty hard, I started to smell diesel. It took me awhile but I discovered the two lines mentioned above had come off the male connections on the firewall (behind the radiator overflow) Hard to reach by the way. My question is: Does it matter what line goes to what male connection ? Thanks in advance
|jm.||No both are open to the tank. The way I fix what the original poster had is just t back into the one that is still open and run a screw in the other to close it off. But to answer you question no diffrence .
|mary||my kubota bx 1500 sputters when you engage the mower deck - other wise it seems to run fine
could this still be a fuel line problem.
I had both new fuel filters changed, new oil filter and major service at 285 hours - only have about 300 hours on it now.
|Mark||I had the exact same problem with my B-7610 and I had exhausted all fixes (even my local Kubota Service mechanic couldn't offer a solution). Then I found this posting. I followed Don's lead and pinched off the hose which runs from the top of the fuel filter to the top of tank and it ran GREAT! Thank you, Thank you!
In my train of logic, if closing off the hose fixes the problem, then a blocked hose or barb should not be the issue as JM suggested...since blocking the hose fixes the problem. To be sure, I followed JM's advice and cleaned out both barbs and hoses, reconnected and the problem still exists. When the hose is not blocked and I start the tractor, I can visually see the gas in the fuel cup go down to where the engine starts to sputter and die. When I pinch off the hose, the engine recovers and all is well. Seems to me that when the hose is left open it is pulling air in from somewhere, or causing another part of the fuel system to pull in air. If these hoses are for self-bleeding, then they should be open to allow air blocks to escape back into the tank.
As much as I am grateful for the fix, I do not want to run the tractor for long with these hoses by-passing the tank.
Any thoughts or suggestions?
|Hubert Presley||I ran out of fuel on my tractor. I went and got some more diesel and put in the tractor. I bled all ports as usual. When I got all the air out of lines I started it up and would run 30 seconds and quit. I took the bleed screw out of side of the ejector pump and fuel just pour out and the tractor would run. I put the bled screw back in and the tractor would die. Could some one please help me?
|richeryls||I had the same symptoms on my JD 2210 and after cleaning the fuel tank, replacing fuel lines, and fuel filter; found that the problem was actually the fuel cut off valve. It was not fully opening, allowing the fuel to fill the bowl as quickly as the tractor was using it. Once that was fixed, no more problem - bowl stays full and tractor runs great.
|Bob||I have worked this problem on my M5700 for 3 years. I have done the same as everyone has posted, many times. "Richeryle" hit on the real problem, when the fuel-filler bowl can not pull fuel, then it will pull air from the return line and the bowl will empty. Notice, if you turn the tractor downhill when the bowl is going down and fuel in tank covers the bleed line, the bowl will refill immediately when it is forced to suck fuel. Also, if you reach down and cycle fuel cut off value, is will start to recover.
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