Kubota BX23 starter problem


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Kubota BX23 starter problem

D.A. Ablowich My Kubota model BX 23 has in intermittent starter problem. It acts like a safely switch is not closed. All four safety switched have been replaced twice by the local dealer. Sometimes I can start the tractor, sometimes not. But since the problem cannot be duplicated easily, it has not been corrected.
This problem started in April 2007 when the tractor had 97 hours on it. It currently has about 132 hours as of Sept. 2, 2007
The starting steps specified in the Kubota Tractor Operator’s Manual, were followed.
Turn ignition key clockwise to ON position. The battery and oil pressure lamps are lit. Sound – rapid clicking or buzzing; click at about 3 sec. interval. Hour engine meter white vertical bar to right of 1/10 moves. This appears when the click is heard.
Turn ignition key clockwise to Preheat position. Preheat lamp is lit.
Turn key clockwise to START position. Nothing happens! No sounds. Engine does not start!
Return key to OFF position. Indicator lights are extinguished. No sounds. Wait about 7 seconds. “Click” heard in vicinity of starter/solenoid. Jiggling PTO and gear shift lever does not result in engine starting.

When the engine does start, I hear a loud click the first time when the key is turned to the START position. It may not start the first time, but I can turn the key OFF and try again. It will start of the third or fourth try.

I would appreciate any suggestions about how to isolate this problem to the part(s) that are causing this.

Leroy Sounds just like a bad ignition switch on
the start leg. Just a thought, go through all
the start things and if it don't start, have
some one jump start the starter with a screw
driver at the starter connections , if it
starts it's going to be a bad switch.

Farmer Frank Sounds like you need to investagate the starter selenoid. Next time it fails to start.... Try jumping the starter selenoid... That means take a pair of plyers and turn them upside down .. touch one end to each side of the selenoid. If she cranks....Call dealer for a selenoid. Let us know. Good Luck Frank
D.A. Ablowich Leroy and Farmer Frank – Thanks for the suggestions. I looked at the solenoid first. It is on the right side of the engine, but because of its location, I cannot see any terminals or mounting bolts. It looks to me that you have to take the sheet metal cover off the engine to get to it so that you can work on it. There appears to be a single Blank/White wire going to the solenoid.

Next I looked at the ignition switch. There are four wires from the switch, about 6 inches long terminating in a plastic connector. This connector attaches to the main wiring harness under the instrument panel.
There are four wires coming from the ignition switch: Red, Red/Black, Red/White, and Black/White. The wires are molded to the back of the switch, so there are no bare terminals. I stripped part of the insulation from each of the four wires for testing.
The battery voltage was about 12.6 v DC as measures directly across its two terminals. I assume that the Red ignition switch wire is the hot wire.
With the switch in the Off position, there is 12.6 v between Red and Red/Black. There is 12.6 v between Red and Red/White. There is no measurable voltage between Red and Black/White.
With the switch in the On position, there is 12.6 v between Red and Red/Black. The Temperature and Oil Pressure lights are lit. There is no voltage between Red and Red/White. There is no measurable voltage between Red and Black/White.
With the switch in the Run position, there is no voltage between Red and Red/Black. The pre-heat light is lit. There is on voltage between Red and Red/White. The Temperature and Oil Pressure lights and pre-heating lights are lit. There is no measurable voltage between Red and Black/White.
I disconnected the connector between the ignition switch and the wiring harness. Then I shorted the circuits with a wire jumper on the wiring harness side of the connector with the following results: Red to Red/Black – this lights the pre-heating light on the instrument panel; Red to Red/White – this lights the Temperature and Oil Pressure lights, causes a buzzer to sound, and the engine hour meter to click; Red to Black/White – nothing happens.
Summary: There is no voltage between Red and Black/White with the ignition switch in any position. Shorting the Red to Black/White connection on the wiring harness side of the connector produces no action.
Maybe I have a problem with both the ignition switch and the solenoid.
Does this provide anyone with additional insights as to my problem? Thanks for the help!

Leroy Look for blown fuses, I think there may be
one close to the starter, going to the starter.

D.A. Ablowich Yes, there is a 40 amp in-line fuse to the starter/solenoid that is readily accessible. The first thing that I did was to check all of the fuses, and they are OK.
Smokin Dog This is a long shot on that new of a tractor.
Undo the ground cable where it bolts to the
tractor, and clean the metal and cable, then
reinstall and make sure the ground is good and
tight. You may also install another ground
cable from where the ground strap bolts to the
frame and then to the engine block, Grounds
go bad even on new equipment and can cause a
lot of head scratching. A FORD starter cable
with eyelets on both ends will work fine and
you can get the length you need.

Smokin Dog Forgot to tell this, the ground will be good
enough to make all the lights and low current
draw items work, and maybe some times the
starter. But with a loose cable, correded area
or just bad cable your problem will exist, and
the bad ground will not let the starter work,
because it's a high draw item.
Hope this is your problem and you have
good luck on the repair.

D.A. Ablowich Thank you all - Leroy, Farmer Frank and Somkin Dog - for your suggestions.

It looks like Kubota designed the BX23 so that people like me could not readliy access the ground, starter or solinoid. Thoughtfully they did put a caution lable on the outside frame to warn me against this.

I have replaced the ignition switch with a new one. The starting problem still exists, although I now consiser it a permanent no-start problem vice an intermittent problem since it has been at least two weeks now since I was able to start it.

My next step is to find a mechanic who can solve electrical problems - I believe that the solution is beyond my capabilities.

D.A. Ablowich Thank you all - Leroy, Farmer Frank and Smokin Dog - for your suggestions.

It looks like Kubota designed the BX23 so that people like me could not readliy access the ground, starter or solinoid. Thoughtfully they did put a caution lable on the outside frame to warn me against this.

I have replaced the ignition switch with a new one. The starting problem still exists, although I now consiser it a permanent no-start problem vice an intermittent problem since it has been at least two weeks now since I was able to start it.

My next step is to find a mechanic who can solve electrical problems - I believe that the solution is beyond my capabilities.

frank Hello;
Please keep me informed of the resolution as my BX23 has done the same thing several times just recently.

Thanks

joel hiatt Have you found out the problem. My buddy has a bx 2200 that is doing the same thing. I think it is the solid state relay that is under the dash on the left side. It is under the light switches and has a black rubber protective cover over it?

Please let us know your results....

gene I have a bx23 2005 that has an electrical problem.
When the wires are connected to the light, emergency and turn switches the turn lights are blinking continously, and I can not turn them off wit.hout disconnecting the wires.
I just ordered the switches to see if that will solve the problem.
Is anyone out there that had a similsr problem? And what is the remedy?
Thank you,

Steven Levesque OK,
Th3e light problem is becasue the switches are not water tight and they are corroded. I had to replace all three and the headlight switch is screwed up again.

I am having the no start prtoblem, just after turning the thing off. filling with fuel and then nothing.

When I solve this I will post, I will not let this get me or anyone else.

steven Well too cold and safety switched burried in many places.
I just put in a momentary waterproof switch which while the key is turned, bypasses all the safety switches and strats the tractor. I also replaced all the light switches with toggle switched and watrproof covers.

I will find the culprit on the starter when the weather warms.

Rick Possible solution is the m77862(jul88)available from john deere dealer. It is called am107421 improvement starter solenoid wiring harness. It cured the problem on my kubota. Dealership says they use this for all models it worked well for over a year & I am replacing it with a second one (got this one wet when power washing)it is a capacitor so be careful when cleaning that area consult mechanic for proper installation as it comes with no instructions for Kubotas
Shane I'm sure that mine is to old to compare, i have a '92 bx1750 but i did have a similar problem. The relay was blown that allowed the fuel inj thing to open and close. It would open at times and start but then not click back when the ign was shut off, not allowing the engine to start. If I would manually pop it back into place it would start.
adams1960 I just bought a G5200 that has a simular starting problem. I have replaced the ignition switch. Then eth starter bendix locked in the rflywheel replaced starter. Great running tractor, ten times more power than my jd lt160
but the starting problem presist. I am going to try a jump wire and see where the ignition wsitch is not firing the starter. I think it's that or someone did not replace the wiring secquince after replacing the ingition switch.

I paid $1k for tractor, snow blade, chains and weights so I exspected some problems

John Had the same problem on my 2005 bx23. Don't waste anymore money. Try just moving the forward/reverse pedal a little while you turn the key - if it's not in the exact right position your tractor wouldn't start. This problem drove me nuts for a long time until I read someonelse's post who had the same problem and suggested this. It starts all the time now - just wiggle it when turning the key. Good luck.
Blue Sage Ranch I saw John's comment and showed it to my husband Bill who was going crazy trying to figure out the starting problem.SNOW TIME ON THE MOUNTAIN AND MY HEART WAS SO SAD WHEN THAT b2320 Kub would not start. Your suggestion worked liked a charm and he had to wiggle the reverse/forward peddle. What a life saver. Thank you and Happy trails.
Black Hills, SD I have a Kubota B2410HSD which started to develop similar problems with starting. I cleaned the contacts on the clutch with emery cloth and the problem has not reoccured. That contact due to its location, can get very dirty with normal usage. Also, the HSD pedal should return to neutral (dead center) when the pedal is released. There is a grease zerk that does need a little grease every to often.

Cheers,

Black Hills, SD Re: My previous post. I guess that really didn't fix my problem. HOWEVER!!! I did further reseach on the web site Tractorsbynet and found many many others with identical problems. The real fix: A part from JD part # AM107421 (Low Voltage Relay). Although this may sound strange, it really does work. The simple install (about 15 minutes) looks like it was made for Kubota. This relay is not made by JD, but they use it on serveral of their tractors and I'm told it will fit many other tractor brands. Hope this helps someone else.
Tractorsbynet is a great website for various kinds of trobleshooling..

Later,

Mlh worthingoton I have been trying to find out why my BX23 keeps blowing 15A fuses for the solinoid. I have cleaned the contacts in the ignition switch and followed the wires to the Solinoid and cannot find a short. Any suggestions?


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