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Jim I turned the key off, but the engine continued to run. Lights, gages, nothing electrical was working. Battery is fully charged. I used the engine stop knob to stop engine. Everything is completely dead when I turn key. Owner's manual says I have (2) 15 amp fuses and a 200amp fusible link on the starter. Fuses are good and I think if the fusible link was bad, it would be burned in half and it isn't. Can anybody help me? I appreciate any help I can get.

Jim Additional info. I am so dense, I forgot to check fusible link with ohm meter. I have now and it is open,so I need to replace, but, does anyone have any ideas about why it blew? I am sure if I just replace it, that one will blow also.

deere_wrencher if they fuse blows again , it may give you additional clues as to what the problem is
ex. what were you doing when it blew?

to try and diagnose why the last fuse blew is
futile, when you know why (if) the new fuse blows
you can apply that to the first

Jim deere_wrencher, thanks for the input. I was mowing grass until dark. I didn't turn the lights on, so I didn't know that I didn't have any electrical power. I drove into the barn and turned off the key, but engine continued to run. However, I remember looking at my fuel guage and it showed dead empty and I knew I had over a half tank of fuel. I wonder if the fuse link was weak and it just failed. I'll get a new one tomarrow and see what happens I appreciate your help.

Larry Caldwell If the next link fries, look for a dead short to the frame. 200 amps is a LOT of current. Look for signs of arcing and melted insulation or cooked paint.

Chances are it was just a bad link, but there's no reason not to check out the wires from the battery to the starter relay, and the starter relay to the starter. Those are the only wires that would carry 200 amps without burning up.

If you replace the fusible link and some other stuff doesn't work, start looking for small wires that have been hot.

Jim Thanks for the info Larry. The "200 amps" was a typo in the manual. The fuse link was 30 amps and the second one fried as soon as I reconnected the battery. I,m looking for a ground now, but haven't found it. I thought there might be a ground at the positive terminal of the battery. Appreciate the help.
The key was turned off when I reconnected the battery. As soon as I put the negative cable on the battery, it fried immediately.

Larry Caldwell I don't know who told you the fusible link was 30 amps, but that makes no sense. A fusible link is designed to protect against a dead short in the electrical system. A 30 amp link wouldn't even run the starter.

You obviously have a dead short. Isolate it by unbolting cables and checking their resistance to ground. A cheap volt-ohm meter from Radio Shack will do just fine. When you find the section with 0 ohms to ground, you have found the section with the short. Isolating an electrical fault is pretty simple, but you have to be very methodical.

While you are at it, buff up all the connections and add a little anti-oxidant. Electrical connections benefit from a little maintenance too.

Jim Thanks Larry,
The kubota dealer (parts guy) sold me the fuse link and he said it was 30 amps (green wire) which is the same one that blew originally. I have an ohm meter and I am checking resistance on wires, but I'm have problems getting the instrument panel off. There are 4 bolts that attach it to the dash. I removed those and can move the panel a couple of inches, but not far enough to reach in and see where wire harness connectors are. As soon as I figure that out, I should be able to see and test most of the wiring.
There is a wiring diagram in the owner's manual, however, the print ing is so small I can't read it with my bifocals and a magnafier glass.

deere_wrencher jim i think the 30 amp link is accessory power
for things that are powered up when the key is off green wires are hot all the time , red wires are hot only when a switch,relay or key has been activated
sounds like your on the right path!

Jim I found the dead short. It was a horn wire that was taped to the outside of the plastic sleeve covering of a wiring harness. It was pinched by a bolt head and rubbed until it shorted out. I still don't have any electric.. My owner's manual said, if you shut off the engine with the stop knob after you turn off the key, damage can occur to alternator and regulator. This is what I did when it broke. That doesn't make sense because you normally shut it off with the key. If it doesn't work, then you use the shut off. I'm not sure what to do now.

mike smith The stop selinoid is not working; located front rt of engine uuder the emergency shutoff rod.

jimmy have just had same problem when you sort it let me know how thanks
Gerard Carroll My wire looom on my kubots b2150hsd has burnt out the other day i replaced with a new loom The problem i have is when i put on the live termensl on the battery the heather light comes on straight away and stays on even when tractor is started what might be the problem Thanks Ger

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