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|John||A friend is having troubles with a 235 stalling. It starts and runs fine for about ten minutes and then will stall. When it satlls it will restart immediately. It will stall when you try engaging the blade (electric clutch), if you disengage the clutch quick enough it will continue to run. If it is stationary when it starts to stall you can keep it from stalling by applying the clutch/brake.
Any ideas ?
|John||Oh yeh, the battery is new and is charging properly, voltage drop during clutch engagement is less than a volt.
|Bruce||I assume this is the GT235? With a twin 18hp Briggs engine? Sounds to me like one of the cylinders is dropping out on you. It will run on 1 cyl., but applying the extra load (PTO) will definately kill the engine. Since you stated it works fine for 10 minutes....then you should highly suspect a coil problem...that's my guess, without looking at it. Could be a valve, too...but probably not. Warm it up, get it to kill...then put a spark tester on each plug wire. If 1 is dead....there's your trouble...coil! If you still have both firing when hot...then you have a valve which is heating, and hanging open.
Yes it is a GT235 with the 18hp B&S. On further testing it will now shut down when cold so the intermitant is becoming more pronounced. I did subsequently run it with a timing light (induction) hoooked up and it is definitely the ignition causing the stalling. I think it is both cylinders packing in so I'll start testing the individual components.
Thanks for you suggestions,
I'm having a similar problem; did you ever figure out exactly what was causing the stalling?
|eric||the valve was sticking fixed that does any one know what the valve gap should be