Rebuilt NAA ran then stalled -no spark

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Rebuilt NAA ran then stalled -no spark

Dave	Okay, heres the history. Tore my 54 NAA down this winter to repaint and fix minor leaks. It ran fine prior to tear down. Removed all electrical and gas componets. First I should say thats its 12volts and that it was 12v prior to any work this winter. I started it yesterday for the first time, started right up after about 1 second and ran for 30 seconds then stalled. Wouldnt restart until I let it sit for 1 minute. After restart it ran for another 30 seconds then stalled. Now it wont restart and I cant get a spark at the plugs. This is what I know: Its getting plenty of fuel, filters are clean at bowl and carb and getting fuel out of the plug at the bottom of carb when the plug is loose. Definetely no spark at the plugs when the plug is removed and the plug is grounded to the block. I'm getting 10.5 volts to the coil when the engine is cranking. When all wires are removed from the coil, I have 1.8 ohms across the two terminals. When I rewired things this spring, the post on the side of the distributer was loose. I pulled the cap and relaced the wire inside that goes from the post to the condensor. The post had a leather pad that seemed in bad shape. Should I have replaced the leather pad or is something else going on here? Is my spark being grounded out there? Is theres something else electrically that I should check or look at? Any help you guys can give is much appreciated and I'll definetely let you know what the fix is when I find it. Thanks again.
Leon	10.5 volts while cranking seems a little low for a 12 volt battery. Check your point gap, make sure they open sufficiently. Do you have spark at the coil? Check it the same way you check the spark plugs, ground the wire coming out of it that goes to the center distributor cap post. If not, pull off you cap, rotor and dust cover and turn the engine over until the points are open. Turn on the key and jump across the points set with a small screw driver that has a good plastic handle. You should see spark at the screw driver and at the coil lead. If not you probably have a bad ground, no power to the points or a bad condensor. If you do have spark, then turn the engine over until the points close. Hold the coil wire to ground and manually open and close the points with your screw driver being careful not to hit both sides of the points at the same time. If you don't have spark then the points need filing or replacing. Another thing to check is excessive wear of the distributor bushings. With your points open grab ahold of the shaft the rotor goes on and see if it moves back and forth enough to close the points. If it does your distributor is worn out. -Leon
Bob G	Make sure that the post that goes thru the side of the distributor is not shorting out.
Dave	Got it running!! I had no spark at the center coil wire when I ground it to the frame with the engine turning over. I found that there was continuity between ground and the nut on the side of the distributor. I replaced the rubber insulator on the inside of the distributor and that took care of it. One question though - how often do you guys put oil in the distributor fill port and how much? Regular engine oil? Thanks to both of you for your help! I'll post a pic when I get the hood and front fenders back on. Dave
Bob G	FO-4 says a few drops of oil every 10 hours of operation or daily. I think I lube mine once a year if I think about it. Ha d to repair the genny because I put too much oil in it. regular engine oil. Glad to hear you got it running. Good job!!

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