| | SSB Farm Tractor Parts, Manuals & Antique Tractors | | Aftermarket Tractor Parts | | Tractor Service & Repair Shop Manuals | |
| | Tractor Implements | | Tractor Seats | | Trailer Parts | | Tractor Loaders | | PTO Generators | | Rear View Backup Camera | |
| | Pedal Toy Tractors | | Tractor Books | | Antique Farm Tractors Blog | | Antique Tractors History | | Rustic Home | |
| How much is your farm tractor worth? Find resale prices for tractors built from 1939 and 2008, with complete specifications and serial numbers. Save 10% on our Official Tractor Blue Book sale! |
Search This Message Board:
timing 53 ford naa
| roy | have a 53 ford naa need advice on how to start engine for the first time (think it has to do with timing issue) i have good spark and good fuel flow. every thing has been rebuilt. can not grasp how to easily time engine, i&t manual unclear to me. pics of what you are talking about would also be great.
|
| Jim Loveridge | I just read the section in the I&T manual and can see why your not clear. I do see what they are trying to do but I think there is an easier way. Here is what I would do. Remove the no. 1 spark plug (most front) and the cover from the timing hole. That's located on the flywheel cover same side as distributor. With key off, crank the engine while holding a finger or thumb over the spark plug hole. When you feel air blow by your finger, you know you are near top dead center and on the compression stroke. Now using a screwdriver on the teeth of the flywheel rotate the flywheel till the zero degree mark is lined up with the pointer. Now you are at top dead center. Adjust the disrubutor so the rotor is pointing right where the no. 1 plug wire is when the cap is in place.and the points just start to open. Snug the distrubor down so it won't move, but don't tighten all the way as you will want to adjust with a timing light after you get him running. Once you get him running and warmed up, carberator adjusted etc. then put a timing light on the timing marks on the flywheel and adjust the distrubutor till it's 6 to 10 degrees before top dead center while at an idle. Then run him up to 2000 and you should see an advance of about 31 degrees. That's the centrifagal advance working in the distributor. Hope this helps and hope your rebuilt engine purrs like a kitten. |
| roy | thanks jim, you were a lot more clear than the i&t but something is still not right. i still have good spark and pretty sure good fuel flow( i sprayed starting fluid directly into cylinders to rule out the possible fuel issue and still nothing, not even a putter. any other ideas? |
| Jim | Is it possable that the rocker arm clearance is set too tight and the valves aren't seating?
|
| roy | rocker arms seem to be ok. any other thought? with the spark plug out i feel air pass by my finger, when i crank the engine more i then feel a suction. should there be? it is probably the the littlest thing that is alluding me. wires are ok, spark is still there, key is on, engine turns, distributor turns, gas flow to carb good, again thanks for spending time with this.
|
| Jim Loveridge | The suction you feel would be correct. At that point you are on the power stroke, both intake and exhaust valves should be colosed so you would feel a suction. I've been trying to think of something that's causing it not to fire. So I'll ask dumb questions. Is the firing order correct? 1243 distributor turns clockwise. Do the spark plugs get moist? Are you still sitting a zero degrees? Try advancing the distributor a little by turning it ccw. Also hold your hand over the carb. intake while cranking to see if there is suction. Oh, main fuel jet open 1 1/4 turns. You could try spraying starting fluid abound the intake manifold while cranking with key on. This would check for vacuume leaks. I'll be away for the next 3 days, but I won't forget to check back. |
Post a Followup
