53 NAA Destributor

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53 NAA Destributor

Frank	Like a dumb but, I ran my NAA out of gas, filed it up and it wouldn't start, no fire. Replaced the coil, point rotor and destributor cap found out it was a bad resistor, 12v to 6v. Now it's getting fire but back fires like the timing is way off. Is there any way to get the rotor or the distributor cap on wrong? The cap fits in a little slot so I thing it's on correctly.
Jim Loveridge	I'm sure the rotor only goes on one way too. Could you have reversed some of the plug wires? Firing order is 1-2-4-3 with the front most cylinder being number 1. What happened to the resister just because you ran out of gas? Did you leave the key on? BTW, are you using the fuel shut-off valve correctly? There is a reserve fuel supply system built into the tank and that shut-off valve. If the wires all are straight, you could have plugged up the sediment bulb screen when you got low on gas. There is another screen up in the tank that's part of that shut off valve too. Let us know what you found.
Frank Newman	No plug wires are correct. Don't know what running out of gas had to do with the resister going bad, I turned the key off. In fact runing out of gas shouldn't have anything to do with the timing problems. The fuel system had been modified when I got the tractor. No sediment bulb, just a petcock valve at the tank and an inline fuel filter. We've taken the cowling off and removed the radator and front axle so we can check to be sure the timing gear didn't jump a tooth. How do you remove the flange that appears to be pressed on the crank shaft? The belt drive pulley bolts to this flange and it's right ahead of the govenor assembly. The repair manual I've got doesn't cover this, or I can't find it. Thanks for you help Jim.
Jim Loveridge	My gosh, Frank you are energetic. I have been thinking about this half the afternoon and I'm wondering if you had actually run out of gas or did that step down resistor just go bad. Then you threw a bunch of new parts at it. You know it was running just fine up till that point. I just can't believe it would jump timming (it's not a chain, but a gear) and the resistor would fail at the same time. Anyhow, I've never gotten into removing the timming case cover but went out and looked at my NAA. I see where the pully is bolted to the flange you are talking about. I would think that it would just get pulled off with a puller. It's not welded on, it's not bolted on, so it has to be a close tolerance fit. The only thing else I can say is, next time, diagnose. Prove something needs replacing first. I can't help but wonder if you put the correct coil on. That could cause the back-fire. Good Luck, and I need some trees cut down and bucked up if you have that much energy. LOL.

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