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53 Jubilee - Rear Hub Repair
|Michael Lacey||Good Morning,
This is an extension from my original post. I had a quick follow up question. While experimenting with the hub off, i also removed the brake assy and the retainer to expose the bearing to look for any wear.
I dont know too much about the rear ends. Should SAE 80-90 or some type of differential gear oil have poured out? When the bearing is exposed, you can actually pull the axle shaft out. i only did this a few inches to observe behind the bearing. there was grease packed in there, but i figured it may have also included the diff oil.
should this have happened, or is that oil confined to its own area in the rear end housing?
I plan to drain the diff oil and replace after my hub and tire are back on, just in case.
|Jim Loveridge||Michael, what you see is correct. The bearings are greesed and there is a seal (inner) that keeps the differential oil out of the bearing and then there is an outer seal that keeps dirt from entering. If you have the side of the tractor that you are working on jacked up higher then the other side the oil won't run out. When you put him back together, it's very important that you get the axle end play clearence set correctly. My '54 is leaking right now because I didn't do mine right. I'll have to put in new seals again and new break shoes this spring. Also that big nut on the end of the axle is supposed to be torqued to 450 lbs-ft. Do you have the I&T FO-19 shop manual? If not, you should get a copy.
|Michael Lacey||I have the shop manual. the tractor, although jacked up, is still pretty level with the other side. god only knows the last time the rear end diff oil had been changed, so it could be extremly low and consequently nothing came out.
I assume to access the inner seal, i'd have to pull the axle shaft all the way out, or does this inner seal butt up right against the back side of the bearing that i have exposed?
also, i assume what you mean by "play" is determined by the amount of shims i place between the retainer and the axle housing face plate to achieve zero "preload" as some would call it? i'll have to read more into it, but i have not been able to identify out how to adjust this accordingly.
|Bob G||If yours is not leaking, I think I would leave it there. I ruined a few putting them in my 8n which is the same. the seal is in the axle housing.
check this out, many on 8n but later 8n same as yours. talks about the shimming.
|Michael Lacey||Any idea as to why the 450 FT LBS of torque is necessary? That seems EXTREMELY high, almost to the point where normal nuts would start to strip.
I believe lug nuts on a car are below or around 100 FT LBS and I considered those as tight.
|Bob G||The single hub nut is a lot larger and has to withstand a lot of motions, side loads and turning torque. I doubt that anyone could strip one out. pretty beefy.
|Jim Loveridge||Micheal, I questioned that much torque too. A guy that used to contribute to this forum named Jim Ncal said that that's correct and, in his words said, "use a B. F. Cheater bar". I found a big torque wrench on ebay for $100. But you can find torque multipliers at tool supply places for not a lot of money too.
|johnb||As I recall, the hub fits on a tapered spline. If you don't get it tight enough, some movement in the fit can occur, causing wheel wobble, oil seal failure with resulting oil saturation on the brake shoes resulting in lost brake function, etc. This axle is the same as on the 8N which is notorious for the oily brake problem. I bought a 3/4 inch drive socket to fit the hub nut and a 3/4 inch drive breaker bar. By putting a pipe over the bar and standing on the pipe, I calculated 450 foot lbs. torque. Don't fall !
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