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|Eric||I attempted to search for this answer and couldn't find one. I have a 8N which I think is having trouble getting fuel. In an attempt to help it I removed the bowl and cleaned out the sediment (very little). I then replaced the bowl and tightened it in. Here is where the confusion starts, I opened the fuel line and no fuel entered the bowl. I then unscrewed the fuel bowl holder a bit and fuel began to enter the bowl. Once full the bowl started leaking so I tightend it back up. I 've done this two or three times and and I suspect this has something to do with my problem which by the way is tractor refuses to run. Another note if I hit her with a bit of either (I know this ain't the best thing to do but it help me diagnose some of the problem) she keeps running. Any help here would be greatly appreciated.
|Salmoneye||Two turns open on the sediment bowl shutoff for the 'regular' setting. Open full gives you the 1 gallon of reserve in the tank.
Three screens in the N fuel system.
First is above the sediment bowl assembly inside the tank.
Second is above sediment bowl.
Third is in the brass elbow at the carb.
Clean them all, turn on the gas, and pull the plug on the base of the carb. Let the gas run into a clear jar and then settle. Inspect gas for debris or water.
|Eric||Thanks for the reply. I've taken the bowl, line and carb elbow apart and blown them clean. I've opened the fuel without the bowl and I get a good flow. I then put the bowl on and opened the fuel, once again good flow. Put the gas line on the the bowl assembly but not at the carb elbow and still get good flow. When I re-assemble everything I notice that if I tighten the bowl to much no fuel enters the bowl, if I loosen the bowl I get fuel into it but it also leaks. At this point I decided to let it leak and test if I get fuel from the carb plug when I pull it and sure enough I do!?? What the heck, what would stop fuel from getting into the bowl when tightened? The bowl gasket is a bit ratty but I'm unsure if that would be the problem.
|Salmoneye||With a gravity feed system, often you will not get fuel visually flowing into and out of sediment bowl when there is no where for the fuel to go.
You say that you have fuel coming out the plug on the bottom of the carb.
Try this: Assemble everything TIGHT with no fuel in system.
If none of this gets you going...then it is time to rebuild the carb or find why the engine is not sucking the gas/air mixture up...
I've read your many posts about the voodoo of added inline filters on a gravity feed system. All three screens on the N systems are 'in-line' are they not? Plus I have never experienced problems of fuel starvation on mine with the inline clear plastic version with the paper (or whatever it is) element comercially available. What am I missing on this?
|Eric||Okay, got it running but not that great. It idles fine at low rpm but when the motor comes under some strain it starts to sputter and loose power. I'm guessing it's time for that carb rebuild you suggested... or is there a few more things I need to check? I've never rebuilt one of these carbs, it looks pretty easy compared to a holley I did once (won't ever do again!). Any suggestions on where to get a rebuild kit with reasonable instructions? Thanks for all the help, this site is great!
|Salmoneye||No voodoo really LOL
Just that when the fuel gets low, the added filter can add just enough constriction inline to cause all sorts of bad running conditions. The three OEM screens along with the sediment bowl are all the N and the Marvel-Schebler need to work effectively.
Had one a month ago...guy swore he had 'plenty' of fuel. Symptoms were that he could start it and it would run fine for half a minute and then sputter and then stop. I looked in the tank and it was about half full. I looked at the fuel line and sure enough...there was an inline 'lawnmower' filter with rubber hose attached. I cut a new piece of rubber hose...pulled his line and had it purring on the second 'Rrrrr' of the engine. He just stood there and scratched his head. I made him go get a solid steel brakeline from his shop and I cut and reflared it and hooked it up for him.
That is the other trouble with an un-needed inline filter. They are usually plumbed in with rubber hose. Rubber and plastic that close above the engine and manifold is a fire waiting to happen. Only use steel line bent correctly.
All of this is of course...In My Humble Opinion.
|Above post is for Marty..||Dunno what happened there...It was supposed to be a reply to Marty...
|Salmoneye||The Marvel-Schebler updraft car is about the easiest you will ever find to rebuild.
Kits are available almost anywhere...
|Marty||thanks for the info. You have a point there with the plastic next to that manifold. That gas tank being there does make me a little nervous if I think about it to much. I just replaced my spark plug wires with ones that have boots that go over the plug terminal. The prior set didn't have boots and I always feared that one day the spark is going to find its way to the tank. I thought this was the previous owners hodge-podge but then I saw a picture of Don B's 8n and it looks as though he didn't have plug boots either. I gotta ask him about that.
Thanks kindly for the reply
|Salmoneye||You are ver welcome.
The original solid copper wires for the N's only had the clips that slip on over the plug...no boots...
|Wade||How do I clean sediment etc. out of the fuel tank and the filter above the bowl?
|cecil mccune||Some inline universal filters will work fine, some will work okay when the tank is full then restrict about hslf tank. One of the most common problems is that the inside of the tank gets rusty or corruded and with the gas sloshing around, it passes into the settlement bowl as a fine sand-like material and will clog the housing about the bowl eventually. I have trouble with the gasket leaking each time I take the settlement bowl off to cleswn it. I guess you need as new gassket every 5 years...ha!