Farmall H Ignition?????


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Farmall H Ignition?????

Shawn Need help please. I have an old farmall "H" I think it is. I really only use it in the winter time for hauling wood. I decided to clean the points and check the gap. All was pretty good. I also cleaned and regapped the spark plugs. The tractor has never really ran tip top, but has been fine for what I needed it for. I need a few questions answered. 1- Is is magneto or not. It has a rotor and distributor cap.???
2- Between the rotor and the points is two little gears. The bottom gear, the smaller of the two, will only go on one way due to the flat on the shaft. The top gear will go on any way you put it. There is not really any markings as you'd think on either of the two gears. Not sure how to line up properly. I rotated motor over by hand to have piston #1, front one, at the TDC, and also this lined the mark on the flywheel up too. I tried this, but not running very well.
3- The firing order printed on the housing say's 1-3-4-2. Now, how are the wires supposed to come off the distributer to each of these cylinders? Which is really number 1 on the cap? The other funny thing I found was it would also only run on one cylinder after I first started it back up. The other 3 cylinders would fire if I loosened the spark plug wires so that they were barely touching the end of the spark plugs. Please help me. Thanks.

John M SOunds like a mag to me.If the gears youre refering to are what I think they are, they are notched on a couple of teeth to properly time the mag.#1 on the mag is usually in the 2:00 oclock position,3 is arund 4:00,then 4 then two.
Shawn Maybe it is a magneto. But, would it still have a rotor and distributor cap. I'm not too familiar with how the magneto works.
John M Yep,still have them.It works pretty much like a distributor but makes its on electrcity for firing the plugs.Some people have rigged up external coils to mags because the right coil is pretty expensive comapred to a automotive type coil.Do you have a big black,probably faded to gray cap on top with one wire coming out going to the disatributor cap?
Shawn No there is no wire going to cap from anything. I had an older fellow here today, used to be a mechanic and still puttes with such things. He started by rotating motor over, like I had done, and positioned 1 cylinder at TDC. Then aligned the rotor up to what we thought was number 1 on the cap. The rotor turns clockwise as you would be sitting on seat, therefore is number 1 on cap the upper left, then number 2 be the upper right????? We are also replacing exhaust manifold gasket, and also the fellow took carb home to clean up for me. I can't find a really foolproof method of timing this type of machine. Not really sure the age, I think it is an H model though. Does a gap about .020 for the points, and .023 for the plugs sound right? Thanks for your help, very much appreciated. I'm in Spencervile Ontario if your interested!!
Shawn No there is no wire going to cap from anything. I had an older fellow here today, used to be a mechanic and still putters with such things. He started by rotating motor over, like I had done, and positioned 1 cylinder at TDC. Then aligned the rotor up to what we thought was number 1 on the cap. The rotor turns clockwise as you would be sitting on seat, therefore is number 1 on cap the upper left, then number 2 be the upper right????? We are also replacing exhaust manifold gasket, and also the fellow took carb home to clean up for me. I can't find a really foolproof method of timing this type of machine. Not really sure the age, I think it is an H model though. Does a gap about .020 for the points, and .023 for the plugs sound right? Thanks for your help, very much appreciated. I'm in Spencervile Ontario if your interested!!
John M Your are timing it with #1 being the plug closet to the radiator,right?
shawn Yup, that is correct. I'm timing with the #1 cylinder being the one closest to the radiator. Is the #1 on the distributor the one at top closest to the block. (about the 10:00 position)
John M Well, it really dont matter if its a distributor igniton as long as it fires the right plug at the right time.Most of the ones I have worked on have the #1 in the 2:00 oclock position or thereabouts.Now if you have a vertical Delco unit on there,I cant help as Im familiar with those. I have attached my email so feel free to email me if I can be of any help.
MGS The gaps sound about right though I usually run closer to .030 on the plugs.

Regarding timing, remember that there are 2 TDCs for the number one cylinder. Make sure you are on the compression stroke, not the valve overlap stroke. The gears in the mag are marked, usually a small dot or a chamfer on the tooth.

Regarding the running with loosened sparkplug wires, this is a typical symptom of a fouled plug.


shawn I was also talking to a friend last night. He also mentioned this about there being 2 TDC's for #1 cylinder. I didn't realize that while #1 is at TDC that also #4 is at TDC too. The compression stroke would be when there is pressure coming out of that spark plug hole, correct????
I don't see any marks on the gear that the rotor sit's on, but, the little gear on the bottom that sit;s on the shaft only goes one way due to the flat spot, it has what looks like a broken piece of a tooth, not sure if this is a mark or just plain broken. But even if this was a mark, there is no reference on the upper gear which drives the rotor. I'm going to recheck the TDC for #1 cylinder. Thanks.

MGS Correct, on the compression stroke you will feel pressure if you put your thumb over the sparkplug hole.

On a 4 stroke engine the crankshaft makes 2 revolutions per ignition cycle. Down for intake, up for compression,(spark here on TDC) down for power, up for exhaust then(valve overlap at TDC) down for intake again.

Regarding timing, that "broken tooth" is probably the mark. The other mark could be more obscure like the keyway on the shaft or the notch that drives the rotor. I really don't know for sure as it has been a few years since tinkering a mag.

Best of luck.

John M I think its a dot on the other gear that the notched tooth lines up with.If not there are two teeth on the other gear that look like they are notch,the single notch lines up in between those two.I cant recall right off hand.
El Toro This may be a little late, but your plug wires should be in this order on the cap. Hal
PS: If the rotor turns CW.


2-1
4-3

bob if the tractor will run with out the battery you have a magneto. the plug wires really should not have to be loose they should be tight. try changing the wires and plugs. if the tractor still doesn't run good your magneto could be going bad
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shane Hey ya we have a farmall h tractor and then when we try to start it and then it runs then it kinda sputters when we speed it up to half speed and at slow speed. Would that be something with the magneto and it hasnt been cleaned in a long time? if someone knows something about magnetos that would be cool i think i understand how they work. Well thanks for tryen to help me.
Dan T Your mag is out of time. Line the flat spot on the small gear with the "L" on the big gear inside the magneto. That should solve the problem. The firing orger is 1-3-4-2. 1 is closest the radiator
Justin My son pulled all of the spark plug wires and the magneto dist. cap off of my 1940 farmall m the other day. I am currently restoring this tractor for him to pull.I understand that #1 is closest to the radiator but it what order after that from the dis. to the spark plugs. I am learning as i go. Please help a diagram would be nice. Thanks
bobby i have a farmall cub 49 model ing is driveing me crazy got low spark is there a ajustment on the mag to get more power from the coil ..any help would be great
Jeff I HAVE A 47 MODEL H. AFTER LAST WINTER AND SITTING FOR 5 MONTHS BECAUSE OF EXTREME COLD WEATHER I HAVE A PROBLEM. WHEN I STARTED THE TRACTOR IT WAS BACKFIREING THROUGH THE CARB AND BREATHER. I THOUGHT I HAD A VALVE PROBLEM SO I TOOK THE HEAD AND HAD IT REBUILT. AT THAT POINT I DECIDED TO DO A IN FRAME REBUILD. NEW PISTONS SLEEVES AND CRANK BEARINGS. AFTER PUTTING EVERYTHING BACK TOGETHER IT STARTED UP FINE BUT STILL A SLIGHT BACKFIRE IN CARB. I HAVE REBUILT CARB AND PUT NEW WIRES AND PLUGS IN. RE TIMED MAG WITH ENGINE PER OPERATORS MANUEL AND STILL SAME PROBLEM. TRACTOR WILL RUN AND PULL IN ALL GEARS BUT IS RUNNING ROUGH AND BACKFIRING AT HIGHER RPMS. ANY SUGGESTIONS WOULD BE APPRECIATED.
ROBERT I am restoring 1950 Farmall H with magneto. I need clarification on the two "close together" timing marks. For the number one cylinder, is it supposed to spark on the first mark or the second?
brian My grand father has an "h" he pressure washed it and the washer loosened the head and it started leaking oil so he put gasket sealer on it and let it run for 20 minutes or so to make sure it wasnt leaking still..wasnt...so about 3 days later he went out to start it and it wld not fire..he has replaced the plugs..wires.carb..rot. Button distrib.
the oil...changec the gas etc. but it still doesnt fire...can anyone help on this matter.



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