International 240 Utility


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International 240 Utility

Denver D I just bought a 1960 IH 240 Utility, back hoe/loader. When I went and looked at it, it ran fine. The only thing wrong with it was the hydraulic pump is leaking severely, looks like a seal, and it lacked a lot of TLC. The guy had been using it at a job site when the seal went out and that is where it is still setting. I went to get it a few days later and it would not start. He at some point had taken the hood off of it due to the fact it was hard to get to the engine with the frame for the loader in the way, etc. It had gotten wet. The distributor cap had cracked. I replaced it, along with the rotor button and plug wires. The points looked good. Still would not run but was getting fire to plugs. The oil-bath was full of water because the vent cap was missing so I removed it and took the carburetor off, cleaned and blew it out. It started, ran a little while, then quit and would not restart. I went back this evening and tried to start it and it would not hit. I replaced the plugs and it took right off. Ran maybe 5-10 minutes, quit, and would not restart. Still getting fire to the plugs outside of the cylinders. This made my fifth trip (55 miles one way) and I still don’t have it home. If I don’t get it home soon, my wife is going to start thinking I got a girl friend somewhere using this as an excuse.

I pulled the coil and brought it home with me. I have been told I can get it tested. NAPA has a new one for $46 but won’t take it back if that is not the problem.

Is there a way I can test the coil myself?

In reviewing some of the forum archives on the 240, I found one that mentioned the coil being wired backwards, thus causing the plugs to fire backwards. Though it ran fine when I went to look at it, could this be the problem? It looks like it was wired backwards but I thought this might be due to it being a positive ground 6V system. The “battery” lead went to the distributor and the “distributor” lead went to the switch.

Another thing I noticed odd was the old plugs, and the new ones for as long as it ran this evening, carboned over with black soot????

I would appreciate any help or suggestions.

Thx, Denver

Gene I've never seen a tractor or any other vehicle wired up that way 6volt or 12 volt positive or negative ground ; the way that it is suppose to be is; if your system is 6 volt positive ground;A wire should come from the negative side of your batt. to the ignition switch[whitch is marked batt.;then from there to the coil [+];on the other side of the coil[-]a wire goes to the dist.
sounds like you have fixed the carb. problem;I believe I would check replace the condencer;and the coil; condencers break up after they heat up
and they cool down quickly and so do coils ;and I would check the wiring on the ignition to make sure that it is wired up right and there are no cracks that can short out on metal; but the biggest thing is to get it home even if I had to hire someone to come out and pull it up on a trailer it would be worth it to keep from driving back and forth so much; 55 miles is a long way oneway.
Goodluck with your tractor
Gene

Denver D It makes sense what you are saying about the coil. This coil, rather than having a (+) and (-), it has a (dist.) and (bat.), with the (bat.) wire going to the distributor and the (dist.) wire going to the switch. To me, that would be backwards, unless the positive ground has something to do with it.

Does anyone know of a way to "test" a coil with an ohmmeter (shorts, grounds, opens, etc.)?

Thx for your response.

Denver

tim I,have a promblem with my hyd you have to prime it to get it to work. its works fine as long as you using it. but as soon as you stop and let it set you have to prime it again.the pump the seals are good over all the pump looks alright. what eles could it be? I have check for leaks. are they seal some where eles?
Dale Tim, Did you ever figure this out. I am having similar issues with my 240.


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