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Best IH Diesel Tractor for Pulling Farm Stock

Eric Zelmer I have been a Red fan since little. Grew up in a 1066. Here lately I have been toying with the idea of building a "Farm Stock" diesel puller. I am partial to the 66 series, but know nothing of the engine blocks, transmissions, or rear ends. What IH tractor model offers the most for modifications that would still appear "stock"....
Hugh MacKay Eric: I doubt if appearence will help you much. I suppose it depends on area, but if they dyno the tractors, I doubt if they allow much more than 20% over factory ratings.
MGS The 400 series engine like the 414 in a 1066 is probably one of the most well built engines there is. You can get gobs of power out of it without damaging the parts.

On the flip-side, some parts of the transmission aren't that rugged. The TA is especially delicate.

I don't know much about pulling rules so you should check on what they allow.

Eric Zelmer Thanks Fella's for the comments. I am aware of the TA problems on the 1066. We have gone through a couple of them. I also am aware of getting to know the rules of the class before taking the plunge - just wanted to see if there is a difference between a 1066 vs 1266 vs 1466 (dont say 200 each :)

Are they all the same block with different bores (sleaves)? Same strokes? Same wieght tractor?
Any IH sites that I can go look this up, and I will.

The local fairs have a mph limit, so the HP made does will not be such a player versus getting the tractor to hook up. Just for face value, I was thinking pump and head work, lightening where I can (taking the 3rd arms off), little things that will allow me to put the weight where I want it.

Again thanks any and all inputs welcome!


Hugh MacKay Eric: I wouldn't call 1066 TA a weak point. I bought a new 1066 in 75, after 16,000 hours TA was still working. Tractor dynoed 150 plus hp from the day it was new. It hit the 10,000 hour mark before it was 8 years old, worked on custom work often burning as much as 10 gal per hour on a machine that required 150 hp. During the mid summer months it worked round the clock with two operators. We placed a thermometer between cab and transmission and often times on those 24 hour days it held at 150 degrees F. All repairs or rebuilds done in that 16,000 hours were forward of the flywheel, plus PTO clutch pack.

The tractor received regular and excellent maintenance. My point is if one 1066 could go 16,000 hours and never have TA, transmission or rear opened up, all of them could have done it.

As for the engine, I had new 56 series tractors as well, and they had much better engines than the 66 series. 56 series was the finest IH built, it was all down hill after that. There are 856s around with 24,000 hours that have never been rebuilt.

MGS The 1066 has a 414, the 1466 has a 436. There is also a 466 engine as well. They all share the same design with different displacements. I don't think the blocks are identical. There is no 1266 tractor.

The 1466 is quite a bit heavier than the 1066.

There is some interesting info on a website called TractorData.

jim Interesting discussion. The 407 used in the 856 . 1256 and 1456 is an excellent engine, however it is a bear to rebuild as the block distorts and you really need to have it machined for a slightly oversized sleeve to get a good round cyl as one of our local machine shops found out the hard way. He located a supplier of sleeves some where out west and had good results after that, not using IH sleeves. The 400 series engines used in 414, 436, and 466 are a wet sleeve engine and are much easier to overhaul, however they usually needed it a lot sooner. Cavitation erosion, camshaft failures, excessive oil consumption, were issues that were addressed and the engines are series A, B and C depending on what updates were added. In other words a lot of changes were made during production of these engines. As far as TA failures, that was our main repair for some years. A lot of it was due to higher HP tractors and a lot was because the rigid tolerences needed to maintain quality fit of the sprag to the driven member became lax meaning some parts were out of specs. I saw some high hp tractors actually tip the sprag inside out and there is no way this should happen if the clearance was proper. It should have torn the sprag to bits instead of tipping in over. One thing very few people ever read was the page in the operators manual stating that if you cannot pull the load easily in third gear in speed trans, low range in range transa and TA direct drive, you need to reduce the load, not add more weight or hp. Well, enough on this subject. OK.
Hugh MacKay MGS: All three engines have the same block. They share the same bore. Only the stroke is different.

A 1466 with same options will weigh very close to 1066. The complete chassis and most other items are the same

john The ta will not be a problem if you use a hevy duty one with heavy sprag and 4 disk.How ever if you make more than 400 hp witch is easy to do. You will need a 5 disc ta with a bearing support in front. A stock ta will down shift on its own at about 300 hp. If you pull farm stock with speed limit you can get by with 13mm pump 93 thousads lines 5hole 22 thousands injectors with 3Lm switzer turbo with 241 exaust housing. You will need to fire ring the head gasket and get a cam that is good for 3000 rpm. This set up makes pretty good hp.should get you in hi 2nd gear. Also 2nd gear out of a 3588 will give you about 2 and a half gear. Witch works good for 10 mph class with 20.8 38 tires. You should install steel flywheel and double disc clutch. As a stock one will not hold for long. Also a bearing support would be a good idea in speed trannie. With all of these things the tractor will still look stock.
joe i have a question for john.i just bought a 1066 that i am tractor pullin with.actually i took it to my first pull satuarday.i was wonderin where i could get my hands on some lines and injectors like you decribed above and if you could put me in contact with a good pump guy.ive done all i know to do to the pump and im still not satisfied with it. thanks joe
Re: Best IH Diesel Tractor for Pulling Farm Stock

I own a true 1456 Gold Demo it is number 11 off the line. It has been in the family since 1969. I have made some major mods to it and have gained a boat load of power. i have injectors, turbo,cam, pistons,and some head work, i currently shoot it with water meth as well. columbus diesel built me one hell of a pump and it has a full cut deliver valve. The tractor peaked on the dyno at 567 max pto which is amazing due to the fact the tractor started out at 125. My ta has held up knock on wood. I have friends that run in the pro stock pulling curcit and have hooked me up with parts. The Tractor now has a cage on it and some other safety things. i had to take off a lot of stock parts to make weight. The tractor gets hooked to a sled every chance it gets. high third is my normal choice.

bill great info

Tyler I pull a stock 1466 w/436 motor and with just adjusting the stock pump right u can pull second high with the TA ahead and even third high with TA back. I pull in 14,000 and 15,000 lb. classes. Tip the smoke cam straight up, set the pump screw a half turn from all the way out and turn tthe bolt in the fuel head out one turn, set rpm's at 3000, and advance timing 7 degrees.

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