|Allis Chalmers||Avery||Bobcat||Case David Brown||Caterpillar||Cockshutt||Deutz||Euclid||Ford||International Farmall|
|John Deere||Kubota||Massey Ferguson||Minneapolis Moline||Mitsubishi Satoh||New Holland||Oliver||White||Zetor||Miscellaneous (OTHER)|
|| SSB Farm Tractor Parts, Manuals & Antique Tractors||| Aftermarket Farm Tractor Parts||| Service & Repair Farm Tractor Manuals ||
|| Tractor Implements||| Tractor Seats||| Trailer Parts||| Tractor Loaders||| PTO Generators||| Rear View Backup Camera ||
|| Pedal Toy Tractors||| Tractor Books||| Tractor Data / Info / Specs||| Tractor Blog||| Antique Tractors History||| Related Sites||| Rustic Home ||
|How much is your farm tractor worth? Find resale prices for tractors built from 1939 through today, with complete specifications and serial numbers. Save 15% on our Official Tractor Blue Book sale!|
|David A||I have taken the lift controls off my super a, one side is free and the other is froze up, after taking the most of the unit apart and spraying with WD-40 I got the froze up side to turn but it has turned on the shaft, the shaft that would turn the rod still wont move, so I used a vise grip and was able to move it a little, but if you move the control arm it will turn on itself, what is a solution to this I dont see how to take it apart with the spring on it, and no set screw on the control arm. thanks David
|Hugh MacKay||David: I did this to my Super A about 15 years ago, problem is I'm having trouble remembering exactly what I did. I did completely disassemble both levers and shafts, and I replaced both friction pads and springs. I do remember cleaning everything then applying spray on graphite to insure the shaft turned within the sleeve.
The part I forget is the adjusting of those double nuts. They are designed so the spring just puts enough tension on the friction pad, so the lever stops where you stop it. As I recall if that tension is too tight it will just turn the sleeve with the lever shaft. I think getting it clean, then the graphite, is the key to success with these. In getting them apart, you'll find a roll pin at the base of the lever.
I did both my SA and 130 at the same time, bought 4 springs and 4 friction pads. I have one of each left over, so I did have a decent spring and friction pad on the two tractors. The springs that were bad had lost all their spring presure, thus it was as if one put it together with no springs. In 1992 those were still available at CaseIH, I expect they still are as the last of the 140s were the same.
I'm starting to remember how I did this as I type. If you have any questions come back. At least let me know how you make out. I'm going to be in my shop after lunch, thinking of scraping the SA off and giving it a fresh coat of paint and new decals. If being out there jogs my memory on anything else, I'll come back.
|David A||After letting it soak with WD-40 overnite, it moves a little more, but on the bad side the spring does not move, I can move it a little with the lever before it slips, I am not seeing a roll pin, there is a spot that looks like a welder hit it one time on the control arm, I will have to get more light on it to see beter.thanks David
|David A||Ok Hugh I belive I found what you are talking about, what I found looks like a pin that has been rounded flush with the shaft, I tried a small punch to force it out, but no luck can it be drilled out? thanks David
|Hugh MacKay||David: The roll pin is what holds the hand lever on the shaft, as well as makes shaft turn with lever movement. I expect it is around 1/8" or smaller. If it's true roll pin you may have trouble drilling it. I wonder if over the years, someone may have used a spot of weld to hold the pin in place? I've seen folks do that, rather than get the proper pin.