CASE 380B


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CASE 380B

Richard I wasn't there when this happened but somehow I got involved in trying to fix it.

Got a Case-IH 380B tractor (yellow). Injector pump started leaking, so a guy pulled it off. The pump has been rebuilt but after it was put back on the tractor wouldn't start.

I made a trip to the farm this weekend and this is what I know for sure .....

I confirmed that fuel got past both filters and the inbound side of the pump. Cranking the tractor I get fuel out all 3 ports on the outbound side of the pump. We bled lines all the way up to injectors and are getting fuel to them. When cranking we get a little white exhaust smoke but she doesn't take off or sound like she wants to.

The injector pump shaft is keyed so it can only go on one way. Motor was not turned while pump was off the tractor so I wouldn't think this would be a timing issue.

Question: Can I removed the 3 hub bolts on the injector pump gear, rotate it by one bolt hole, and reinstall to see if this will time the pump? Or will that throw off timing to the point that we would have to pull front of engine off to check? There is a dead hole on this pump, so we have no way of checking pump timing (unlike some other model pumps that allow you to see inside pump via removable cover).

If anybody has a procedure on how to check timing on this motor/pump I would greatly appreciate it.


AJ Don't know that tractor so this is general, usually the gear cannot come out of mesh with the other gear when the pump is removed so it probably is not the timing,take out an injector or if you have a spare one connect it to one of the injector pipes and crank the engine over and see if it sprays out atomised fuel in short powerful bursts,best to keep the nozzle pointed away from your face and any other part of the body,ideally stick the nozzel into a glass jar while testing,if you do not have a good spray there maybe a problem with the stop control,what make is the injector pump.
AJ

Richard Thanks for the reply AJ.

The pump is a Bosch. The gears were not un-meshed, I know that for sure. The pump gear has a keyed center hole surrounded by 3 slotted holes which bolt a hub to the gear itself. So it would be possible to unbolt the 3 bolts, turn the hub and rebolt to gear without actually unmeshing the gears. If this was done (we're not sure) would I mess anything up if I were to just try rotating it clockwise by one bolt .. try it ... and if it didn't work, rotate it back 2 bolt holes counterclockwise and try it again. That way I would have tried all 3 configurations. I just don't want to mess anything up with engine timing that would force me to pull more stuff off the front of the motor.

We have not pulled an injector out. Only tested to make sure fuel comes out of the line at the injectors. If there is a problem with the stop control .... do you mean that there is a problem with the pump rebuild?

Thanks again, I really appreciate the help.

AJ See what you mean now about the hub been moved in the gear, but surely the holes would be offset so it could not be mounted wrong, if its the case that the gear bolts to the hub in any position you can try changing it,mark where its at now,all the Bosch rotary pumps that I have worked with had a plug in the back that was removed and there was a special dial gauge that screwed into the hole when you wanted to check the pump timing for no 1 cylinder,you would put the no 1 cylinder on compression stroke and bring it up to the timing mark on the front pulley or flywheel,the guage will now be giving a reading,if it was too much or too little you would correct it by slacking the bolts holding the pump gear to the hub and alter its position till the reading is correct,that is the fine timing,the engine should start if its a little bit out either way,if you do the injector test it will tell you if the pump is injecting or not,if it is injecting the timing must be wrong, if its not injecting the pump may have a problem,make sure all air is expelled from the pump,a lot of the Bosch pumps are self bleed but if the small orffice in the return pipe banjo bolt is blocked they will not bleed,take the banjo bolt out and prime the system till you are sure all air is out,put the bolt back and tighten,prime on till the lever loses pressure and then try to start.
Good luck AJ

gabe sounds like you have to take the pump off and rotate the engine one revolution and reinstall, possible 180 degrees off



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