|Allis Chalmers||Avery||Bobcat||Case David Brown||Caterpillar||Cockshutt||Deutz||Euclid||Ford||International Farmall|
|John Deere||Kubota||Massey Ferguson||Minneapolis Moline||Mitsubishi Satoh||New Holland||Oliver||White||Zetor||Miscellaneous (OTHER)|
|| SSB Farm Tractor Parts, Manuals & Antique Tractors||| Aftermarket Farm Tractor Parts||| Service & Repair Farm Tractor Manuals ||
|| Tractor Implements||| Tractor Seats||| Trailer Parts||| Tractor Loaders||| PTO Generators||| Rear View Backup Camera ||
|| Pedal Toy Tractors||| Tractor Books||| Tractor Data / Info / Specs||| Tractor Blog||| Antique Tractors History||| Related Sites||| Rustic Home ||
|How much is your farm tractor worth? Find resale prices for tractors built from 1939 through today, with complete specifications and serial numbers. Save 15% on our Official Tractor Blue Book sale!|
Search This Message Board:
Case 580M Series 2 ; 3.9L Engine; Bosch Injection Pump timing.
|Pete Magnuson||Injection pump needs to be removed due to timing issues; tractor is sitting unmovable on a side road; time is of the essence here to get this vehicle moving again; no special Cummins engine turning tool is immediately available; question here is can the pump be removed and sent in for service without turning the engine to #1 TDC, saving this operation for that time when such a tool can be obtained, or should this operation be done prior to pump removal using the indexing pin at base of pump as the manual shows. It would appear that once the pump is timed and locked on the bench, and the engine is rotated and indexed as called for, then the proper timing can be obtained on reinstallation. However, I can also see where a sequence would have to be followed here, where if not followed could result in erroneous timing upon reassembly.
Again, this would be done in attempting to expedite this matter as quickly as possible.
Thanks for whatever information can be provided here.
|AJ||To remove the pump you must take off the gear that drives it from the pump shaft as the gear is too big to come through the hole,take off the round cover from directly in front of the pump rad side,loosen the nut that holds the gear to the shaft but leave it on flush with the shaft end,you need a small puller to break the taper,I usually use a piece of plate with two holes in to bolt over the shaft and tighten up the bolts to break the taper,as long as you do not let the gear come out of mesh you need not worry about timing as the pump is keyed to the shaft,if I remember correctly the gear cannot come out of meash due to the clearance between it and the housing,once the taper is broke and all the pipes and connections are undone remove the shaft nut and then the pump,when refitting the pump put a tiny drop of superglue on the key to keep it in place,so mark the body of the pump in relation to the key for to have it in the right place going back on,is this a rotary pump,if you are taking it off because it is not injecting fuel take off the stop solenoid first,take out the plunger and spring and put the solenoid back without them,do not lose the plumger and spring as they will fall out when you undo it,try to start and see what happens,if it does start get a new switch,you will have to stop it manually.
|Deewight||Pete: Is this a 580SM2? If it is an SM2 it's not a Cummins motor it's an Iveco motor. Is the injection pump on the flywheel housing? If it is an Iveco motor there is no key in the shaft but you could still take it off and time the motor later. let us know.
|Pete Magnuson||Dewight: Thanks for the follow up. I do not know if this is an SM2, but the VIN is N8G402830, which should tell us. I need to research this.
As to the pump itself, it is a Bosch rotary, probably a type VE. It sits on the left side of the engine. and does bolt to the bell housing. The gear and retaining nut are accessible through the rear of the housing by removing a plate secured with three(3)machine screws.
Interesting to learn about it possibly being an Iveco. No way to know exactly what the original was, as it was removed and a remanufactured one put in in its place. This is where the timing got screwed up, when all the accessories were being replaced. I guess once I figure out what the code on the VIN is, I can determine the original make.
Again, thanks for your response.
|AJ||I was taking it that your machine was a 580M series 2 like you stated which would have a 4/390 with a Bosch rotary,the Iveco engine is very common in the UK in machines and light trucks,the pump is a pron to problems,Bosch claim its the low sulpher fuel that is the cause.
|AJ||PS, the pump will not be a VP44,the engine has common rail fuel injection,I thought that the Iveco engine was not fitted till the series 3 SM but I suppose it depends on where one is.
|Deewight||Pete: The serial # would indicate that it is an Iveco. The timing pin is below injection pump. Two different timing pins were used. One is a plastic insert in the timing housing that slides in and out. The second and later one is a smaller timing housing and a cap that is removable and a steel pin that techs have that goes in the housing. Your pump will come back timed and locked. Timing pin goes into the back of the pump gear. Easiest way I have found is to remove the rear valve cover, get #4 rocking and pin should go in. If you need specs on the latest procedure for timing the injection pump let me know.
|Deewight||AJ: Series 2 has an Iveco mechanical injection not a common rail. Series 3 were common rail.
|thepumpguysc||Dang, wish I had seen this post over the weekend [or sooner] I could have saved you alot of "guessing" if I had the pump # off the side of the name plate.
The poster said he had the pump "rebuilt"?? and the installer, messed-up the timing..[accessories]. SO THAT BEING SAID, [timing being the problem]
YOU MUST use the timing pin on the engine[under the pump] to time it.
NOTE. Its awhole lot easier to get the pin to move in and out IF you remove the locking ring and pull the timing pin out. MAKE SURE it has a TIT on it..IF IT DOESNT, just use a mirror to find the timing hole, the pin[tit] is supposed to drop into.. NOW,remove the ORING on the "plastic" timing pin and lubricate it and reinstall it. ROTATE the engine in the DIRECTION OF NORMAL ROTATION, USING the alternator with tension on the belt.
Since you have the cover off the front of the engine to access the front of the pump, remove the drive nut and washer on the pump drive shaft. You should see a key way?
When the key way is at 10:00 your dam close to the engine pin dropping in.
When the engine pin drops in STOP..and lock down the pump, it has a locking pin..Sorry for the late response. TPG
Post a Followup