|Allis Chalmers||Avery||Bobcat||Case David Brown||Caterpillar||Cockshutt||Deutz||Euclid||Ford||International Farmall|
|John Deere||Kubota||Massey Ferguson||Minneapolis Moline||Mitsubishi Satoh||New Holland||Oliver||White||Zetor||Miscellaneous (OTHER)|
|| SSB Farm Tractor Parts, Manuals & Antique Tractors||| Aftermarket Farm Tractor Parts||| Service & Repair Farm Tractor Manuals ||
|| Tractor Implements||| Tractor Seats||| Trailer Parts||| Tractor Loaders||| PTO Generators||| Rear View Backup Camera ||
|| Pedal Toy Tractors||| Tractor Books||| Tractor Data / Info / Specs||| Tractor Blog||| Antique Tractors History||| Related Sites||| Rustic Home ||
|How much is your farm tractor worth? Find resale prices for tractors built from 1939 through today, with complete specifications and serial numbers. Save 15% on our Official Tractor Blue Book sale!|
Search This Message Board:
Case 2594 stops moving, clutch fails to engage...
|Larry||Just bought a 2594 1987 with 2800hrs. Test drove it around block/shifted up/down 24speed power shift. (6 speed power with 4 gears for each) Everything seemed to work/price was what I could afford so I bought it.
No duals so I drive it to get duals put on. Less then 2 miles and tractor stops moving. Engine fine just no power to tires? Try to shift and no "surge" like my 2090. Grinds if I try to put in 1-4. Microswitchs at clutch appear to check out. (center to right connected at rest , center left connected when under pressure) Top on/off works. Just no surge/tractor won't go.
Few hrs later tractor moves just fine, drive it 15 miles (after talking to dealership/former owner. Seems this is a issue that "happened" three times over last few yrs. To point they bought new "micro switches" which were behind seat. (so this was a known problem they didn't tell me) Works fine, I think maybe it is isolated. Three miles and it happens again. Same thing except this time I notice the center two silver (solinoids) under cab on right are HOT. Almost to point of uncomfortable to touch. The top and bottom ones cool. In 15 minutes all cool (but tractor won't surge/move) Pull it home and 5hrs later it works like it should (to put in shed)
Ideas? Suggestions? Dealership suggestes cleaning battery terminals??? I can see the grounds of each solinoid (which I intend to remove/clean) Any other ideas? I saw in a 2004 thread mention of test for solinoids? But not how to do it? Thanks for any help. Its making me sick I spent this $$$$ for a lemon.
|EDDIE FRUGE||GENERALLY WHEN TRACTOR FAILS TO SHIFT IT IS DUE TO CRACK WELDS IN MAIN CONTROL BOARD LOCATED BELOW GEAR SHIFTERS ON RIGHT SIDE OF SEAT. ONE WAY TO TEST IS TO REMOVE COVER AND EXPOSE SOLINOID BOARD AND WHEN TRACTOR STOPS MOVING LEAVE IT IN FIRST GEAR, ENGINE AT IDLE AND TAKE YOUR HAND AND TAP ON BOARD, IF IT SHIFTS, REMOVE BOARD AND CHRCK FOR CRACK WELDS AT EACH SOLINOID AND OTHER AREAS, i GENERALLY HARD WIRE THE BOARD INSTEAD OF USING THE SCREWS TO ATTACH WIRES. THIS BOARD IS FED BY THE SMALL SHIFT RANGE BOX USED TO RANGE TRANSMISSION FROM FIRST GEAR TO ALL SIX SPEEDS, THESE FEED THE SOLINOIDS ON RIGHT SIDE UNDER CAB OUTSIDE TRACTOR, JUST A VERY COMMON EXPERIENCE i RAN INTO SERVERAL TIMES, ONLY ONEC SHIFT RANGE BOX i FOUND TO BE FAULTY
|eddy||I had the same problem with mine....The screen between the differential/hydraulic sump and the pump/filter housing was getting stopped up with brake disc dust. The return flow was restricted to the point that pump would run out of oil....After sitting over night the tractor would perform perfectly until it ran out of oil again....The fix is to split the tractor and clean the screen....ed
|JRM||I have 5 of this tractors only wish they had 2800 hr.I have ran into this prob many times before A bad connection on control board/bad hot wire going to board.Other fix were bad HYD pump under steps your case IH shop can chek the PSI on the pump. & THE pump screan stoped up, you can clean this by pulling the pto not splitting the tractor. I have never replaced A shift solenoid.but could be the prob, mabe this will help
Post a Followup