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Case 580 Super E Brake specs

Scott What are the wear specs for the various components in the brake system?
Brake disc min thickness?
Brake disc actuator min thickness or max groove depth?
brake housing max groove depth?

Thank you
Scott

AJ Sent you an email with a link to download a digital copy of the manual,the brakes start at the PDF page 834,on the top menu there is a square box indicating the page,clear it and type in 834 and press enter.
AJ

Scott Thanks much. I have at least part of a condensed manual however it doesn't list any specs. I have everything apart but trying to figure out which parts are still good, good enough, and which need replaced. After getting things apart one brake disc is shot, one has material left but I don't know if it should be replaced, and the no idea about the actuator discs and housing. They all have grooves worn in them which I suppose I should expect but I don't know how deep they can be before it is an issue.

Thank you
Scott

AJ The E series can have either wet or dry brakes,the most common is dry with a fibre friction disc,what sort of problem were you having to have the brakes pulled,the two most common things that gave the E bad brakes was one oil getting into the housing and the other the brake cylinder pistons sticking half way in the bore giving a poor pedal,the pedals still return fully,to check if the pistons are not returning fully undo the push rod from the pedals and see how far in they go before making contact with the pistons,if that's the problem remove the cylinders and get a brake cylinder honing tool hone the cylinders and reassemble with a new repair kits,if you are bleeding the brakes you need to have the engine idling as the brakes are fed from the hydraulic oil.
AJ

Scott Weak breaking degraded into no breaking on the right side. Everything functions properly otherwise... press on the pedal and the piston extends and so forth. When I checked, the adjustment was already at its limit on the left side so I pulled the breaks off expecting to see the pads were worn out which the one is and the other probably is or close. But I also found some thicker oil and what appears to be grease which I would guess is the oil mixed with all of the brake dust from the worn pads and discs. I plan to replace the seal and both brake pads. I am guessing the actuator discs and housing are still good despite the wear grooves from the pads. The grooves are maybe 1/16" on average or probably less. That is going off my un-calibrated eye and memory from a couple days ago. A concern is 4 x 1/16" wear grooves total 1/4" which means the adjustment for the brakes has to start somewhere near teh limit I would think and would likely run out of adjustment well before the pads are worn out. At what point do you need to replace the actuator discs and the housing? A concern is if the brake pads are good but the surface they are supposed to press against is too far away since it is worn, things won't work. Or is that not really a problem
AJ The only time I had to replace the friction discs was when they were contaminated with oil,if they are dry just rough them up a bit to get the glaze off,the actuator can wear inside where the balls go,the holes gets deeper and the ramps worn,the actuator expands by climbing on top of the balls,if the actuators don't expand enough you can put in a spacer under the adjusting nut,there was never what one would call good brakes on those machines even the latest models,most people are complaining about them losing speed on hills but of course brakes are needed.adjust the brakes manually,tighten them up till the wheel just stops,back off one full turn.
AJ

Scott The weather was nice enough to work on the tractor again for a bit. I cleaned about a quart of oil and sludge out of the brake housing so far. There is still more gunk coating everything though.

One of the pads is shot. The other is probably ok for a bit but while I have it apart I suppose I should go ahead and replace it and not have to deal with this again for a while.

The brake housing, not the cover, is still on the tractor. Is it possible to remove it without "dropping" the axle? Their does not appear to be enough room to slide it between the differential/brake axle (not sure what it is really called). Do I really need to remove the housing? I need to replace the oil seal which is driving the question. Is it pressed in from the transmission side of the brake housing or the tire side of the brake housing? My guess is I will probably have to drop the axle so that I can remove the housing and set the seal in correctly.

And while cleaning the gunk out of the brakes, I found a "spare" o-ring. It was on the brake/differential shaft, possibly toward the outside/tire side of the oil seal. I have not seen any reference to this o-ring in any manual or parts diagram. It is a little bigger than the splines but I have no idea where it really came from to put it back.

This is starting to become work but when it is finished the tractor should be about to stop again, go forward, not leak coolant, heat the cab, not leak fuel, not leak hydraulic fluid everywhere... Hopefully after this it will be good to go for a few years before anything major is required again.

Thank you
Scott

AJ Oil is probably the problem,there is a secret seal on the diff lock side,it is located in the hollow shaft that carries the brake,a long thin screwdriver will hoke it out,install the new seal with the lip facing in,use a suitable piece of pipe to knock the new seal in,yes the brake housing carries the diff,do one side at a time,if there are any shims between the b/housing and axle make sure to put them back.
AJ

Scott The tractor is back on hold for a little bit... tired of fighting with hydraulic oil cooler.

How do I know if the leak is the seal inside the shaft or the one on the shaft in the housing? I know the outer seal is bead. It has a visible tear. The little spring on it must have come loose at some point. I think that is the O-ring that I found that I did not know where it came from. It was just really filthy so I did not realize it has a spring.

I only have the one side off on the brakes. There does not appear to be enough room to work on the brakes, remove the housing and swap the seal, without dropping the axle so at that point I am tempted to do both sides, one at a time. Do everything while it is apart. The shims are still in place. I ran a bolt back through them into the housing so that I can't screw them up, hopefully.

AJ All the SE's I done the brakes on were done without lowering the axle,it's tight but possible,I would not do the job without replacing all the seals,but if you need to drop the axle do it it's only four bolts.
AJ



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