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Case 580SM Fuel issue?
|mikemada||Long story short....
2003 Case 580SM Backhoe bought with 4300hrs... ran fine, then died... only started when key was being held in place, we replaced fuel shut off solenoid and wiring housing it started working fine again.
Ran for 10hrs approx. and it died. We replaced all fuel filters and bled the system, it fired up but started to die under load. would idle fine but died when you started to drive it or use loader. We removed old fuel line and installed new fuel line, bled it and it fired up, we got it home.
Installed new batteries and starter (both were getting old) new fuel filters and lines, new air filters, bled out injector pump and pulled return elbow off, no blockage. fired up and ran for a while but it had a low idle and we had to run it with the throttle a little ways up as it would die on idle. Runs okay for about an hour at a time with normal idle now but after it warms up it wants to die when low idle or working with low RPM. We have tried to adjust the governor on injector pump and throttle cable, both with limited success... seems to have a really inconsistent idle, will be okay for a while but after it warms up it gets low and kills the engine when going in reverse or using loader in Neutral...
is this an injector issue? injector pump going bad? fuel tank issue?
|AJ||Do not make any adjustments whatsoever to the injector pump,the most common problem is the tank breather,the breather is remote,trace the hoses coming from the top of the tank by the fuel gauge,one of those hoses is the breather,find the end and see its free,the shut off solenoid is a two stage type,when you switch on nothing happens,when you hit start the solenoid jumps to run position then the secondery coil holds it in run,that machine may have an in line filter between the tank and feed pump make sure its clean,check the flow from the tank.
|mikemada||unfortunately, I had a "mechanic" out last week and we did a small adjustment to the governor. I will be out again to work on it tomorrow, and will double check the breather line.
Since the adjustment to the pump has been made (it was very slight), should I leave it for now or should I adjust it back to where it was before?
Thanks for the quick reply, I wish I found this forum before we started troubleshooting.
|mikemada||to clarify, we did an adjustment using the bumper screw and the idle screw.
|thepumpguysc||Check the tank vent first.. The solenoids are known to go bad..Wire or zip tie it to run or remove it. Does it shut off like its running out of fuel, spits & sputters or like someone turned off the key switch??
The lift pumps are known to go bad, check for flow. You could hook up a gauge and check it at the inlet.. The pump has an overflow valve on the return side of the pump, its a banjo bolt style.
Remove it and push on the ball, it should have a slight tension on it.. or the spring may be broken.. If you really want to check it, plumb a gauge in the inlet and it should read 25psi.. Good luck & keep us posted..
|mikemada||Thank you, I have only had time to pull off the vent line and everything seemed fine... I ran it for over an hour without an issue but the darn thing only quits after a couple hours continuous use. So it will have to wait until next week when I can use it for the day and see if it quits on me again. I will repost after a good few hours in the machine
|AJ||The vent was a common fault on that model,usually what would happen it would start first hit in the morning run for 1/2 a minute,stop and would not start again till bled,your feed pump is working well as it is not letting the fuel be drawn back to the tank if the breather is blocked,good machines those,lot of them used here in the UK by owner drivers cos they are fairly reliable,easy to work,comfortable cabs.
|mikemada||ok well its been a couple weeks and I can run it for over 2 hours at a time without any issue. The last 3 times I have parked it (after 2hours use) it stalled while in going in reverse. It seems to only want to stall when there is a sudden drop in RPM while using the hydraulics.
At the moment, I have it parked as I have found a place that steam cleans diesel fuel tanks, so for about 100.00 I can get all the sediment and rust out of the tank (its very dirty), I will be draining it in the next couple days and removing it from the machine.
After the tank is cleaned I will be replacing all fuel, vent and return lines up to the lift pump again. I will also be replacing the filters and the sender unit on the tank as it isn't in good shape either.
I am thinking that the injectors and possibly injector pump will need to be rebuilt as well... but at least everything will be clean up until the lift pump... i will check psi on lift pump as well.
|AJ||Get the tank and fuel clean,all fuel related problems usually start in the tank,by the dirt that's put into it,after you got clean fuel,filters and the lines are good I would run and see how it goes before pulling the injectors,it is seldom they give trouble.
removed tank, steamed cleaned, replaced fuel tank cap, all lines (return, breather line + intake line), replaced inline filter and main filter, replaced banjo bolts on bleed screes and new bleed screws also replaced the pressure relief valve on the return line on injector pump....
did not help at all...
near impossible to start without ether... will start with ether (no smoke) but when its running it has low RPM (800, should be closer to 950)on idle.... will run alright for a couple hours then stalls on low idle and is a bitch to restart.
guessing its a fuel pump or injector issue now. I wont have time to work on it until next week but I might have to bite the bullet and remove injector pump , rebuild then replace injectors.... cant think of anything else.
We removed the injection pump and injectors, they were all bad/damaged. Put in rebuilt pump and all new injectors and now it ru s like a dream....
I'm really surprised it ran at all, but it got to the point where it would t turn over, this fixed it, lots of power now!
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