|Allis Chalmers||Avery||Bobcat||Case David Brown||Caterpillar||Cockshutt||Deutz||Euclid||Ford||International Farmall|
|John Deere||Kubota||Massey Ferguson||Minneapolis Moline||Mitsubishi Satoh||New Holland||Oliver||White||Zetor||Miscellaneous (OTHER)|
|| SSB Farm Tractor Parts, Manuals & Antique Tractors||| Aftermarket Farm Tractor Parts||| Service & Repair Farm Tractor Manuals ||
|| Tractor Implements||| Tractor Seats||| Trailer Parts||| Tractor Loaders||| PTO Generators||| Rear View Backup Camera ||
|| Pedal Toy Tractors||| Tractor Books||| Tractor Data / Info / Specs||| Tractor Blog||| Antique Tractors History||| Related Sites||| Rustic Home ||
In Reply to: Ford 631 series posted by Cowboy on Monday, August 14, 2017:
Don't worry about the coil itself. It is likely not the problem.
If you have a 6 volt coil or "12 volt external resistor required" you need a resistor in line with the coil.
If you have a "12 volt no external resistor required coil" do not use a resistor.
If you have a 12 volt alternator conversion kit that came with a resistor, there is a possibility the resistor has too high an ohms value. It should be about 1 1/2 ohms. If you have the resistor you can jumper across it for a short time and see if that helps starting.
With switch on and points open you should see battery voltage at coil output to side of distributor connection. With points closed you should see zero volts.
In todays world new parts does not mean good working parts. If spark across points is weak you may have a bad condenser.
With negative ground alternator the -- on the coil goes to side of distributor.
+ to - on 6 volt coil should be about 1 1/2 ohms, direct 12 volt no resistor coil should be about 3 ohms.
Take a dollar bill, fold it up, and pull it through the closed contact points. They often have a film on them that will prevent good contact.
Post a Followup