Save This Page ] [ Follow Ups ] [ Post Followup ] [ Compact Tractor Discussion Forum ] [ FAQ ] Save This Page ] [ Follow Ups ] [ Post Followup ] [ Compact Tractor Discussion Forum ] [ FAQ ]
| | SSB Farm Tractor Parts, Manuals & Antique Tractors | | Aftermarket Farm Tractor Parts | | Service & Repair Farm Tractor Manuals | |
| | Tractor Implements | | Tractor Seats | | Trailer Parts | | Tractor Loaders | | PTO Generators | | Small Engines | | Rear View Backup Camera | |
| | Pedal Toy Tractors | | Tractor Books | | Tractor Data / Info / Specs | | Tractor Blog | | Antique Tractors History | | Related Sites | | Rustic Home | |
 SEARCH MANUALS  | FIND PARTS |
In Reply to: Honda 4514 wont start posted by Mark Caron on Sunday, August 20, 2006:
Mark: I had the identical problem. If my 4514 started it ran fine. It would sometimes fire so fast you could hardly get your hand off the ignition switch before it was running. But if it turned two or three turns without firing, you could crank on it for an hour and it would not start. You never knew when you sat down whether you would get it to start or not. The answer for me was this. After fooling around with fuel flow investigation, and after wiring around the ignition switch to rule out that problem, I finally discovered it was the coil. Got a new coil and it has started 100% of the time since. The problem here is the installation. Normally this is an engine removal job, based on the fact that the rear engine cover, i.e., the flywheel cover (which is made of polypropylene plastic) is a one piece unit that won't come off the machine without engine removal. But I got around that disaster. There is a two part, hard plastic outer housing at the rear of the flywheel cover opening which is held on with four 10mm bolts (two on each piece). After removing them, and after removing all bolts holding the rear engine cover in place, I cut the cover in two places (essentially on two different radiuses - radii?) using a sawzall with a 12" metal blade in it. I made both cuts at locations where the two outer housings would straddle the cut lines, so that on reassembly the two outer housings both formed a "bridge" across the cut lines. Thus, there was one bolt on each side of the cut line on both outer housings. You only need to remove one of the severed parts - the other stays in place as it is not in the way. Then it is easy to get at the coil and change it out. Worked great for me. Clearly this is not the preferred Honda way, but it avoided engine removal and got the coil installed. Hope this helps. Larry PS - I suppose you could avoid engine removal by attacking the problem from the rear by first removing the transaxle, then the drive shaft, then the fywheel cover. But cutting it made more sense to me.