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	<title>Comments on: Kohler vs. Briggs &amp; Stratton Engines</title>
	<atom:link href="http://www.ssbtractor.com/antique-farm-lawn-garden-tractors/2008/06/kohler-vs-briggs-stratton-engines/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://www.ssbtractor.com/antique-farm-lawn-garden-tractors/2008/06/kohler-vs-briggs-stratton-engines/</link>
	<description>Tractor blog from SSB Tractor, a leading tractor parts, manuals, implements, and toys supplier</description>
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		<title>By: Chris</title>
		<link>http://www.ssbtractor.com/antique-farm-lawn-garden-tractors/2008/06/kohler-vs-briggs-stratton-engines/comment-page-1/#comment-2374</link>
		<dc:creator>Chris</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 07 Jun 2011 00:33:56 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.ssbtractor.com/antique-farm-lawn-garden-tractors/?p=7#comment-2374</guid>
		<description>Have a Push mower, but both with Briggs&amp;Stratt 5hp and 5.5hp both 3 years old, just off warrenty, and both broken, one miss&#039;s so bad can&#039;t mow lawn, the other won&#039;t even start, changed coil, plug and air filter, gets gas, air and spark, still won&#039;t start, has been in the shop 4 times under warrenty.
Looking for new mower, but was going to get a Toro, but saw they have Briggs on them, so thinking LawnBoy or Ariens both with Kohler, what do you think?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Have a Push mower, but both with Briggs&amp;Stratt 5hp and 5.5hp both 3 years old, just off warrenty, and both broken, one miss&#8217;s so bad can&#8217;t mow lawn, the other won&#8217;t even start, changed coil, plug and air filter, gets gas, air and spark, still won&#8217;t start, has been in the shop 4 times under warrenty.<br />
Looking for new mower, but was going to get a Toro, but saw they have Briggs on them, so thinking LawnBoy or Ariens both with Kohler, what do you think?</p>
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		<title>By: Rockinroller</title>
		<link>http://www.ssbtractor.com/antique-farm-lawn-garden-tractors/2008/06/kohler-vs-briggs-stratton-engines/comment-page-1/#comment-1063</link>
		<dc:creator>Rockinroller</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 31 May 2009 12:20:14 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.ssbtractor.com/antique-farm-lawn-garden-tractors/?p=7#comment-1063</guid>
		<description>After purchasing several lawn tractors and mowers over the past 40+ years and having basically 3 engines:  Kohler, B&amp;S and Honda, at varying price points and features, I would conclude from all of that experience that the IDEAL purchase from an economic standpoint is to buy a reasonable &quot;low end&quot; machine (i.e. $1200 for a 16-18hp/42&quot; cut lawn tractor) and expect it to give you good service for 5-7 years.  If you plan on approximately $200 per cutting year in &quot;costs&quot; (routine maintenance, occasional belt replacement, oil/filter changes,blade sharpening),including depreciation, I would think that is a reasonable expectation.  The problem with the better (read:  more expensive) mowers is that they share negative issues with even the most inexpensive varieties:  metal (rust), tires (leakage, punctures, etc), blades that dull, oil and lube requirements, gas usage, etc.  To me:  I&#039;d rather spend $1200 for a &quot;cheap&quot; lawn tractor and have it last 5 years and reselling it at that point in time for a couple hundred bucks, than to spend $5000 on some decked-out model, both being exposed to the elements relating to lawn cutting.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>After purchasing several lawn tractors and mowers over the past 40+ years and having basically 3 engines:  Kohler, B&amp;S and Honda, at varying price points and features, I would conclude from all of that experience that the IDEAL purchase from an economic standpoint is to buy a reasonable &#8220;low end&#8221; machine (i.e. $1200 for a 16-18hp/42&#8243; cut lawn tractor) and expect it to give you good service for 5-7 years.  If you plan on approximately $200 per cutting year in &#8220;costs&#8221; (routine maintenance, occasional belt replacement, oil/filter changes,blade sharpening),including depreciation, I would think that is a reasonable expectation.  The problem with the better (read:  more expensive) mowers is that they share negative issues with even the most inexpensive varieties:  metal (rust), tires (leakage, punctures, etc), blades that dull, oil and lube requirements, gas usage, etc.  To me:  I&#8217;d rather spend $1200 for a &#8220;cheap&#8221; lawn tractor and have it last 5 years and reselling it at that point in time for a couple hundred bucks, than to spend $5000 on some decked-out model, both being exposed to the elements relating to lawn cutting.</p>
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		<title>By: C Meekins</title>
		<link>http://www.ssbtractor.com/antique-farm-lawn-garden-tractors/2008/06/kohler-vs-briggs-stratton-engines/comment-page-1/#comment-1054</link>
		<dc:creator>C Meekins</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 31 May 2009 06:43:05 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.ssbtractor.com/antique-farm-lawn-garden-tractors/?p=7#comment-1054</guid>
		<description>I have a cheapie tractor with a briggs I/C 15 ohv.This engine became hard to start and I quickly learned the valve clearances were &#039;tight&#039;.
the repair manual suggests a expensive method of adjusting these valves.
my technique for adjustment requires that you first prep. the engine by removing spark plugs and turning the crank until valves are closed. Now measure the clearances with feeler gauge.if tight then remove the large nut holding rocker arm. an experenced tech. maybe needed to grind a small amt. from the rocker arm just where the valve stem contacts rocker arm. I certainly do mean a small amount! Now reassemble rocker arm and torque nut and re-measure gap with feeler gauge.If the gap is still to small then repeat this procedure until you get the gap correct.I recall the intake and exhaust valves are both set at .oo7 inch. however you should verify the valve clearance specs. for your engine model!  that&#039;s it.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have a cheapie tractor with a briggs I/C 15 ohv.This engine became hard to start and I quickly learned the valve clearances were &#8216;tight&#8217;.<br />
the repair manual suggests a expensive method of adjusting these valves.<br />
my technique for adjustment requires that you first prep. the engine by removing spark plugs and turning the crank until valves are closed. Now measure the clearances with feeler gauge.if tight then remove the large nut holding rocker arm. an experenced tech. maybe needed to grind a small amt. from the rocker arm just where the valve stem contacts rocker arm. I certainly do mean a small amount! Now reassemble rocker arm and torque nut and re-measure gap with feeler gauge.If the gap is still to small then repeat this procedure until you get the gap correct.I recall the intake and exhaust valves are both set at .oo7 inch. however you should verify the valve clearance specs. for your engine model!  that&#8217;s it.</p>
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		<title>By: Evie Weidman</title>
		<link>http://www.ssbtractor.com/antique-farm-lawn-garden-tractors/2008/06/kohler-vs-briggs-stratton-engines/comment-page-1/#comment-818</link>
		<dc:creator>Evie Weidman</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 24 May 2009 00:46:23 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.ssbtractor.com/antique-farm-lawn-garden-tractors/?p=7#comment-818</guid>
		<description>Have Husqvarna 24 hp with Briggs &amp; Stratton motor(2006). Will never make that mistake again! First 3 months had to hire my neighbor to mow the lawn. Repaired bent rod and valve replaced. Now I am going on the 3rd season with this tractor and I am hiring my heighbor again.Sears wants $300.00 dollars just to show up! It&#039;s not a rod this time but the motor is clacking fiercely. Repairmen suggested a magnet that falls off and rattles around in the motor, if I still have compreshion. Last year I found a cross threaded bolt in the mower deck. Repair men replaced it but didn&#039;t line up the star on the mower blade. So I fixed it with a dremel tool. 
FED UP WITH JUNK!!!!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Have Husqvarna 24 hp with Briggs &amp; Stratton motor(2006). Will never make that mistake again! First 3 months had to hire my neighbor to mow the lawn. Repaired bent rod and valve replaced. Now I am going on the 3rd season with this tractor and I am hiring my heighbor again.Sears wants $300.00 dollars just to show up! It&#8217;s not a rod this time but the motor is clacking fiercely. Repairmen suggested a magnet that falls off and rattles around in the motor, if I still have compreshion. Last year I found a cross threaded bolt in the mower deck. Repair men replaced it but didn&#8217;t line up the star on the mower blade. So I fixed it with a dremel tool.<br />
FED UP WITH JUNK!!!!</p>
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		<title>By: John Young</title>
		<link>http://www.ssbtractor.com/antique-farm-lawn-garden-tractors/2008/06/kohler-vs-briggs-stratton-engines/comment-page-1/#comment-580</link>
		<dc:creator>John Young</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 09 May 2009 22:04:23 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.ssbtractor.com/antique-farm-lawn-garden-tractors/?p=7#comment-580</guid>
		<description>I too have had a bad experience with a 25hp Kohler Command Pro engine on a Sears GT 5000 although the oil and filter and air filter were changed about every 25-30 hours of use mowing a flat 2 acre yard. Last year the right side of the v-twin motor began fouling out the plug and one day it just decided to quit when the electric clutch fried itself.  The tractor still looks new but is probably only worth a couple of hundred unless I can part it out.  Can&#039;t give Kohler&#039;s design a very high mark.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I too have had a bad experience with a 25hp Kohler Command Pro engine on a Sears GT 5000 although the oil and filter and air filter were changed about every 25-30 hours of use mowing a flat 2 acre yard. Last year the right side of the v-twin motor began fouling out the plug and one day it just decided to quit when the electric clutch fried itself.  The tractor still looks new but is probably only worth a couple of hundred unless I can part it out.  Can&#8217;t give Kohler&#8217;s design a very high mark.</p>
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		<title>By: Mark Shinsky</title>
		<link>http://www.ssbtractor.com/antique-farm-lawn-garden-tractors/2008/06/kohler-vs-briggs-stratton-engines/comment-page-1/#comment-510</link>
		<dc:creator>Mark Shinsky</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 03 May 2009 12:51:19 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.ssbtractor.com/antique-farm-lawn-garden-tractors/?p=7#comment-510</guid>
		<description>I have gt5000 26hp 48&quot; 3seasons old approx 150 hrs.
I fed the beast almost 1gt of oil each week 1hr mowing time all last season. Started this season with new spark plugs no oil change it now does that it self. After 2 uses it foud 1 plug so bad it was running on 1 cylinder. 
The tractor it self works very well with no other problems. I looked in to replacing it with a kolher for the toone of 1200 to 1500 and no one could tell me what mods would be needed. So I went to my local Briggs dealer to order a new engine. To my suprize thy had it in stock and not just 1 thy had 22 yes 22 in stock at the store at $649.00. I bought 1 24 hp put it on yesterday filled with b&amp;g oil it started right up. Im keeping the old one for parts. By the way since when does anyone keep 22 of any thing in stock, this should tell us something. By the way the problem is the air cleaner design. Im going to fix that and keep my fingers crossed.
                  Stuck with B&amp;S junk</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have gt5000 26hp 48&#8243; 3seasons old approx 150 hrs.<br />
I fed the beast almost 1gt of oil each week 1hr mowing time all last season. Started this season with new spark plugs no oil change it now does that it self. After 2 uses it foud 1 plug so bad it was running on 1 cylinder.<br />
The tractor it self works very well with no other problems. I looked in to replacing it with a kolher for the toone of 1200 to 1500 and no one could tell me what mods would be needed. So I went to my local Briggs dealer to order a new engine. To my suprize thy had it in stock and not just 1 thy had 22 yes 22 in stock at the store at $649.00. I bought 1 24 hp put it on yesterday filled with b&amp;g oil it started right up. Im keeping the old one for parts. By the way since when does anyone keep 22 of any thing in stock, this should tell us something. By the way the problem is the air cleaner design. Im going to fix that and keep my fingers crossed.<br />
                  Stuck with B&amp;S junk</p>
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		<title>By: Ottis Young</title>
		<link>http://www.ssbtractor.com/antique-farm-lawn-garden-tractors/2008/06/kohler-vs-briggs-stratton-engines/comment-page-1/#comment-487</link>
		<dc:creator>Ottis Young</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 21 Apr 2009 02:20:29 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.ssbtractor.com/antique-farm-lawn-garden-tractors/?p=7#comment-487</guid>
		<description>I have a husqvarna yth 2448 It backfired and almost immediately started smoking real bad. It burns oil rapidly since then. I suspect it broke a ring or something else happened. Sad thing for such names as Husqvarna and Briggs and Stratton.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have a husqvarna yth 2448 It backfired and almost immediately started smoking real bad. It burns oil rapidly since then. I suspect it broke a ring or something else happened. Sad thing for such names as Husqvarna and Briggs and Stratton.</p>
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		<title>By: James L Moak</title>
		<link>http://www.ssbtractor.com/antique-farm-lawn-garden-tractors/2008/06/kohler-vs-briggs-stratton-engines/comment-page-1/#comment-415</link>
		<dc:creator>James L Moak</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 05 Dec 2008 23:26:56 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.ssbtractor.com/antique-farm-lawn-garden-tractors/?p=7#comment-415</guid>
		<description>am in possession of a Craftsman single cylinder engine logoed (Craftsman cast iron extra long life engine Solid state ignition) equipped with Timkin bearings the # stamped in blower housing is 143-642022 ser #4108E no one seems to be able to identify! electronic ignition has failed. Any help appreciated.  Jim Moak Corning CA</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>am in possession of a Craftsman single cylinder engine logoed (Craftsman cast iron extra long life engine Solid state ignition) equipped with Timkin bearings the # stamped in blower housing is 143-642022 ser #4108E no one seems to be able to identify! electronic ignition has failed. Any help appreciated.  Jim Moak Corning CA</p>
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		<title>By: John from North Carolina</title>
		<link>http://www.ssbtractor.com/antique-farm-lawn-garden-tractors/2008/06/kohler-vs-briggs-stratton-engines/comment-page-1/#comment-370</link>
		<dc:creator>John from North Carolina</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 27 Oct 2008 19:22:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.ssbtractor.com/antique-farm-lawn-garden-tractors/?p=7#comment-370</guid>
		<description>Husqvarna and Sears both made by the same people (Electrolux home products). They also make several regional brands.  I retired last year after 39 years with a couple equipment manufacturers, the last being John Deere.  I spent most of my career in the turf industry.  I would not recommend a Briggs engineexcept on a homeowner unit under 20 hp.  Kohler engines are fine except the Courage series.  You cant beat the Kawasaki or Honda engines.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Husqvarna and Sears both made by the same people (Electrolux home products). They also make several regional brands.  I retired last year after 39 years with a couple equipment manufacturers, the last being John Deere.  I spent most of my career in the turf industry.  I would not recommend a Briggs engineexcept on a homeowner unit under 20 hp.  Kohler engines are fine except the Courage series.  You cant beat the Kawasaki or Honda engines.</p>
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		<title>By: Gary Of Texas</title>
		<link>http://www.ssbtractor.com/antique-farm-lawn-garden-tractors/2008/06/kohler-vs-briggs-stratton-engines/comment-page-1/#comment-284</link>
		<dc:creator>Gary Of Texas</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 04 Oct 2008 06:32:13 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.ssbtractor.com/antique-farm-lawn-garden-tractors/?p=7#comment-284</guid>
		<description>All I know &#039;is&#039; after knowing a man that has a small yard service business, and he has had me work on his equipment for the past 14 yrs; is that every briggs engine he own never lasted longer than a yr and half yr without starting to smoke. He did service every 25 hours or whatever the engine manual said. I even convinced him to buy new engines with &#039;socalled industrial commercial quality&#039; Briggs. Still only last about 2yrs before smoking and using oil.
    I convinced him to buy a Kholer Engine rider mower over five years ago. I just replaced some deck pullys for him and ect... He has worn out a set and half a set of tires on it. The engine does not smoke or burn oil after all these yrs and no telling how many hours of use in small yard business he has.  Sorry briggs ur history and Briggs u better do better if u want to stay around.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>All I know &#8216;is&#8217; after knowing a man that has a small yard service business, and he has had me work on his equipment for the past 14 yrs; is that every briggs engine he own never lasted longer than a yr and half yr without starting to smoke. He did service every 25 hours or whatever the engine manual said. I even convinced him to buy new engines with &#8216;socalled industrial commercial quality&#8217; Briggs. Still only last about 2yrs before smoking and using oil.<br />
    I convinced him to buy a Kholer Engine rider mower over five years ago. I just replaced some deck pullys for him and ect&#8230; He has worn out a set and half a set of tires on it. The engine does not smoke or burn oil after all these yrs and no telling how many hours of use in small yard business he has.  Sorry briggs ur history and Briggs u better do better if u want to stay around.</p>
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